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Capital city of Scotland
Photo: Ad Meskens, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Edinburgh (Gaelic: Dùn Èideann) is the capital of Scotland, located in the Central Belt of the country. With a population of 526,470 in the urban area in 2021, and 901,455 in the metropolitans, Edinburgh fizzes with a cosmopolitan yet uniquely Scottish atmosphere. Old volcanoes ensure a dramatic natural setting, with the imposing castle atop one. The city combines medieval relics, Georgian grandeur and a powerful layer of modern life with contemporary avant-garde. Medieval palaces, Gothic churches and fascinating historical buildings rub shoulders with the best of modern architecture, such as the Scottish Parliament and the National Museum of Scotland. Variously dubbed "Auld Reekie" or "Athens of the North", but usually just plain "Embruh", it hosts great restaurants, shops, pubs, wild and mild clubs, and an unrivalled programme of events and festivals throughout the year.
The city's medieval heart along the Royal Mile, which courses down from the Castle to Holyrood Palace, with the National Museum a short way south. Further east is the volcanic crag of Arthur's Seat, some 340 million years older than Old Town.
This elegant grid of mansions and gardens was laid out from the 1770s; it's now the principal shopping district and has the plushest hotels. Major sights include Calton Hill and four branches of the National Gallery.
These neighbourhoods are just north of New Town. They have interesting independent shopping and the extensive Royal Botanic Garden.
Edinburgh's raffish former port is the permanent mooring place of Royal Yacht Britannia.
Mostly residential, but Portobello beach and the historic village of Duddingston lie in the east of the city.
This has the bulk of student accommodation, and plenty of places to eat and drink. Further out are Craigmillar Castle, Blackford Hill, the Pentland Hills, and the upper glen of the Water of Leith.
Location of Murrayfield rugby stadiums and the zoo. Further out are a sculpture park, the charming village of Cramond and a tidal island.
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The original that spawned all the rest. Founded in 1947 and still seen as more "high-brow" than any of its offspring. Surprisingly, tickets are often priced more reasonably than for many Fringe shows. Some events have preview performances at a much lower price.
One of the iconic images of Edinburgh for millions worldwide is the yearly Tattoo, kilted pipers skirling below the battlements of Edinburgh Castle. Although tickets sell out well in advance, persevering individuals are likely to find one or two tickets still for sale due to cancellations. Just be prepared to ask, ask, and ask again! There are usually fireworks at the end of the shows which can also be seen from e.g. the Grassmarket area.
The Fringe
As the name might suggest, this festival developed on the fringe of the main International Festival and offers more alternative performances, with an emphasis on comedy and avant-garde; it is now the largest arts festival in the world. Many shows offer cheaper preview tickets on the first two days of the festival or a 2-for-1 ticket special on two selected dates. There are a few sub-festivals that are part of the Fringe such as the Assembly Festival, Summerhall Festival and CtheFestival. Part of the Fringe are also many free events (with donation if you liked the show) across the city grouped mostly under the PBH's Free Fringe or Free Festival.
Festival of about 150 concerts in 11 venues.
Takes place in a temporary village of marquees at Charlotte Square Gardens (West End of George Street, New Town).
Some permanent outdoor commissions which can be seen all year, and temporary exhibitions and events during the festival.
Multicultural festival held in Leith.
Predominantly a "closed shop" for industry professionals only.
Takes place annually in March or April. Emphasis on "hands-on" science.
Fire Festival marking the beginning of summer (evening of April 30). The festival has its origins in the pre-Christian Celtic festival of the same name, which was held to herald the coming of spring and to celebrate the fertility of the countryside. Drums, dancing, semi-nudity, pagan ritual, home-brew and lots of fire and fireworks. Crowds of around 12,000 enjoy the ceremony and spectacle every year. For the full traditional experience stay awake until dawn and head across to Arthurs Seat to wash your face in the dew.
Annual non-profit art, music, theatre, etc. event taking place in unused spaces in the city that change from year to year. End of May/beginning of June.
Around the end of May the Edinburgh College of Art opens its doors and exhibits the works on art, design and architecture of their students. A similar event, the Masters Degree Show, takes place in August as part of the Edinburgh Art Festival. See the ECA event calendar for details.
Every May/June, an international festival of children's theatre.
A free festival in the Meadows (South) on a weekend in early June with lots of food stalls, second-hand merchandise and live music.
Now moved to June from its former slot in August, so that it no longer clashes with all the others! Centred around the Filmhouse Cinema on Lothian Road, though other cinemas take part too. In 2022 it is back in August, but it is not clear if this is a permanent change.
Fire Festival marking the beginning of winter (evening of October 31). Procession and enacted fight between the King of Summer and Prince of Winter with great accompanying percussion.
Bonfire Night
Evening of November 5. With ticketed fireworks (£6.50) in the Meadowbank Sports Centre (East). Can be seen (for free) from several locations in the city.
Celebrate St Andrew's Day, Scotland's national day on November 30. There are many free events on the nearest weekend in Edinburgh. Historic Scotland opens many of its sites for free (free tickets are required and can be booked online).
By train
Waverley Station is a major hub for the Scottish rail network, with trains operated by ScotRail.
By road
Main routes are the M8 from Glasgow and the west, M9 (from Stirling and the north-west, A90/M90 from Perth, Dundee and northern Scotland, A1 from Newcastle upon Tyne and north-east England, and…
By bus
Long-distance buses run to Edinburgh from England, Belfast and the rest of Scotland.
By boat
North Sea ferries no longer sail to Rosyth, so sailing from the continent means travelling via Newcastle, Hull, Harwich or the Channel ports.
By bus
The suburbs stretch out for several miles.
By tram
A tram line links city centre with the airport west and Leith east.
By train
You're most unlikely to use the train to get around within the city.
By car
Central Edinburgh is a nightmare to drive in, particularly the Old Town with its tangle of medieval streets with their associated one way systems.
By taxi
Co Traditional Black Cabs carrying up to 5 passengers can be hailed on the street, but minicabs must be pre-booked.
By bicycle
The Edinburgh Innertube map gives a good overview of off-street cycle paths in and around the city centre. Many paths are along canals or rivers, through parks and on former railway lines.
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Ingliston, Edinburgh · International · EDI
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