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Central area of Edinburgh, Scotland
Photo: Erath at English Wikipedia, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
New Town of Edinburgh is 250 years old, in contrast to the Old Town settled for over a thousand years. It was laid out on a grid pattern in the late 18th century with elegant Georgian townhouses, and the intervening loch was drained to become Princes Street Gardens. It's nowadays Edinburgh's main shopping and commercial district.
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This is the stubby crag just east of Princes Street: a short stroll up it commands great views. The "National Monument", a memorial to Scots killed in the Napoleonic Wars, was an attempt to out-do the Parthenon in Athens but the money ran out with only the west facade built. Nelson's Tower was built 1807-16 in the shape of an upturned telescope in honour of the naval hero. A Time Ball on the mast drops at 1PM every day just as the One O'Clock Gun is fired from the castle - this gives a time signal to ships in the Firth before the sound rolls out to them, or it would if not obscured by drizzle and the ships in possession of reliable watches. It was operated by the adjacent City Observatory, superseded in 1896 by the Royal Observatory in the south of the city. City Observatory remained active until 2009 then was refurbished as the Collective Gallery exhibition space for modern art.
Atmospheric Georgian graves, memorials, and funerary ornaments. Memorials include those to the philosopher David Hume (1711-1776), to the Scots who died in the American Civil War, and to the Martyrs of Reform imprisoned or transported for sedition in the 1790s for calling for the right to vote.
Completed in 1784, this is the parish church of the New Town. It's Italianate with an unusual elliptical interior, with an ornate ceiling blending Roman, Pompeian and Scottish elements. The steeple holds Scotland's oldest complete peal of bells, cast in 1788. In 1843 this church was the scene of The Great Disruption, when a third of ministers broke with the Presbyterian Church of Scotland to found their own Free Kirk. St George's Church was part of the breakaway, but there was a reconciliation in the 20th century, and in 2013 that congregation merged here. The Undercroft Cafe has homemade food M-F 10:30AM-2PM.
Sir Walter Scott (1771-1832) re-invented Scotland. In the late Georgian era, he popularised tales of its medieval and Jacobean tumults, and created the clan tartans you buy on Princes St. This grand Gothic memorial, part cathedral part moon rocket, was completed in 1846 to dominate the east end of Princes St. It's 200 ft 6 in / 61.1 m tall, and guided tours take you up 287 steps (no lift) to the top platform, for a closer look at many of the statuettes of characters from Scott's works. The man himself and his dog sit in state at the base. In the 1990s the curators considered cleaning the monument but realised that the Victorian grime was holding it together, so replacement stonework is prominently white.
An august neo-classical building on The Mound, fronting onto Princes St, and its main function is to be confused with the National Gallery behind. The RSA is a separate organisation promoting contemporary Scottish art. The building hosts temporary exhibitions but doesn't have a permanent display - the Academy's extensive collection is dispersed across many galleries. That might include your own home, as they run an art rental scheme.
This holds much of Scotland's fine artwork from Renaissance to 20th century, with changing exhibitions. These rotate seasonally, so an exhibition put on for the Festival typically stays to the end of the year, allowing quieter times to view. Enter from the plaza between gallery and Royal Scottish Academy, and a basement passage connects the two exhibition spaces. The Scottish Galleries on the lowest floor reopened in 2023 after several years of redevelopment, and show a good collection of local work and views which may inspire trips.
Completed in 1890, this is a striking red sandstone neo-Gothic building. It holds portraits of Scots from down the ages, with new faces being added all the time: Billy Connolly and Tilda Swinton mingle with Mary Queen of Scots. The entrance hall has a grand frieze of notable Scots in procession.
A branch of their main museum in Woodbridge Connecticut, this is mostly artwork with exhibitions on the Nakhba and other events.
The west portion fills the valley beyond the Mound, spanning the railway tracks to the foot of castle crag. The east portion is the terrace around the Scott Monument. They were laid out in the 1820s as private gardens for residents of the street: occupants of bath chairs required a medical certificate that their condition was not contagious. Their initial opening to the public was solely at Christmas and New Year, in the belief that this would distract people from the pubs and reduce drunkenness. In 1876 they became a public park and were re-landscaped and dotted with statues. By this time the gardens were already bisected by railway tracks, the price that had to be paid to finally link the east and west railway terminuses. The gardens are open 24 hours.
This townhouse was designed by Robert Adam, completed in 1796 and has been furnished in the style of its first owner John Lamont. Its last private owner the Marquess of Bute also acquired adjacent townhouses and along with the other owners got the entire north facade of the square restored to Adams' imposing original design. Visit by self-guided tour, and in mid-summer you need to book as it sells out.
In front of the house is the mirror-image of St Andrew's Square at the east end of George St. Bute House at Number 6, next door to The Georgian House, is the official residence of the First Minister of Scotland, so you might see a motorcade, TV cameras and armed security outside. The gardens in the square are private. Prince Albert stands in the middle, with his view down the street somewhat impeded by mature trees.
An old red phone box has been kitted out with Edwardian memorabilia, and nicknamed for Sir Giles Gilbert Scott (1880-1960) designer of the box. You can look in the windows anytime, or collect the key for £3 (for Save the Children) from Stewart Christie and Co who run a long established gentleman's outfitter in the shop next to it.
Isaac Newton realised that what caused the apple to fall was the very same force moving the moon, planets and stars. James Clerk Maxwell (1831-1879) was born in this house, before the family moved to Kirkcudbright. He was intensely curious about how nature worked and made a "great unification" of equal importance to Newton's: that magnetism, electricity, light and heat are all manifestations of the same electromagnetic spectrum. And this spectrum must contain other frequencies beyond human sensing: hence X-rays and radio waves, and the entire science of telecommunications. He made possible Einstein's 20th century unification of gravity, mass and energy, and contributed to many other fields of enquiry. The Foundation has preserved this townhouse with his memorabilia. His statue stands at the east end of George St and a laboratory block is named for him on the Edinburgh University science campus.
It is an attractive hamlet down in the dene - the steep valley - of the Water of Leith. It was the medieval crossing point on the route from Edinburgh to South Queensferry, and is the main access point for this section of the Water of Leith Walkway (described below). The fast-descending stream drove 11 grain mills here, so it was the powerbase for the Baxters, the bakers' merchant guild. The present bridge across the stream was built in the 18th century, only just wide enough for a horse and cart. The village declined in the 19th century when bigger flour mills were built at Leith, and bypassed in 1833 when Telford's Dean Bridge spanned the valley; the Belford Bridge was added upstream in 1887. Dean village therefore never developed modern roads or industry, so its charming core was preserved.
is best seen from below in Dean Village as you follow the walkway along the stream - from the top it's just a busy thoroughfare. Crossing in four arches 107 ft / 32 m above the stream, it was Telford's last major project. As well as improving the route to Fife, it made the north bank into prime real estate, so elegant terraces were built there.
The original modern art gallery, established in 1960, was in the Botanic Gardens. In 1895 it moved into this neoclassical building, originally a refuge for fatherless children, and in 1999 it expanded across the road into the neoclassical orphanage now known as Modern Two. The gardens of Modern One have been sculpted. Both buildings have extensive contemporary collections and most visitors find that seeing one of them is plenty for an afternoon.
Opposite side of Belford Rd has a slightly smaller collection, but enough to infuriate about one-in-five reviewers, who rage that their kids' drawings stuck on the fridge door are better. A neon sign in the garden reassures all and sundry that "There will be no miracles".
This stonking great neo-Gothic church was completed in 1879, designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott, with the towers added in 1917. It's the senior Episcopal church in Scotland, within the Anglican tradition of bishops (and much else) that the Presbyterians rejected. It has daily choral services: the song school (open occasionally) has stunning murals by Phoebe Anna Traquair.
The Roman Catholic Cathedral was established as a chapel in 1814 and became a cathedral in 1886 for the archdiocese of Edinburgh and St Andrews. It was designed by James Gillespie Graham in neo-perpendicular style and has undergone several alterations and extensions - in the 1970s the tenements that hemmed it in were demolished. There are services twice daily in English and daily in Polish.
His creator Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (1859-1930) was born nearby at 11 Picardy Place, to a genteel but impoverished Irish Catholic family. His first Sherlock story was published in 1886. The statue was in storage while the plaza was remodelled around the tramlines but restored in June 2023.
Built as a cinema in 1929 and refurbished in 1980, this is now Scotland's largest performance space, with a capacity of 3059. That's about 1000 more than can comfortably be seated and 2000 more than they have toilet provision for. It's run by ATG, Ambassador Theatre Group.
Large multiplex cinema showing mainstream releases.
A small fast-food joint, limited seating. The food is cheap and edible, with a decent vegetarian selection.
Unashamed specialists in late-night greasy food, friendly staff and a DJ at weekends. The burgers are a stand-out and deep-fried mars bars are available for tourists.
Beautifully tiled Victorian palace of a pub, designed in 1862 as a showroom for the latest fixtures and fittings, no dogs. The stylish restaurant serves seafood and other classics.
Scottish outpost of a small national chain, modelling their interiors on colonial Bombay cafes. The food is made to share, mostly consisting of small plates, with the house chaat, black daal and salli botti particularly memorable. Often busy, but they can usually squeeze you in, remember those Bombay buses and commuter trains.
Bar and grill in a former bank headquarters with grand exterior and impressive interior.
This Neapolitan-style chain pizzeria opened its Edinburgh outlet in 2025 to much hype. It's good not great.
Seafood restaurant owned by shellfish producers, ingredients direct from the west coast.
This serves excellent Scottish seafood.
Lively pub serving modern Scottish cuisine at reasonable prices.
Chic cosy French bistro serving up excellent French cuisine.
Great continental food and wine. Gluten free and dairy free menus available.
Restaurant in a former grand banking hall serving wonderful Italian food.
Excellent basement vegan cafe. Home-made food.
Chicly decorated restaurant and bakery in a former bank, the menu changes daily.
Over-the-top decor in this quirky pub, sometimes has live entertainment, mixed reviews for the food.
Chain pub with slick service and good ale and meals.
Busy cocktail bar and night entertainment spot.
A cavernous converted bank building. It's part of the JD Wetherspoon chain and always has a wide range of inexpensive drinks and pub food.
A great cocktail bar with friendly helpful staff.
Trad drouthy Scottish pub, often a setting in the Ian Rankin "Inspector Rebus" novels.
Splendidly tiled and wood-panelled pub.
Traditional bar with a good range of real ales and whisky, reasonable pub food. Big screen for football and rugby.
Nowadays specialising in Mexico, so this is the place for tequila or tacos.
Trad pub, dog-friendly, sometimes has live music. It calls itself a gastropub but customers don't much rate the food.
This often features in the novels of Christopher Brookmyre as the pub where journalist "Jack Parlabane" gets tip-offs from the police. The Cask is a proper boozer with a wide selection of Real Ale plus draft and bottled lagers and whisky. Great place to watch football or rugby as they have half a dozen TV screens.
Readers of Alexander McCall Smith's 44 Scotland Street will recognise this literary haunt. It's a traditional pub popular with New Town locals, students, the suits from local offices, pretty much everyone in fact. Gets very busy in summer thanks to its lovely beer garden - one of the few central pubs to have one. Plenty of drink options and decent food.
Micro-distillery producing gin in various styles. In summer 2024 they plan to move to larger premises on Market St near the station.
Tiny rooms, but right in the heart of the city facing the castle and Princes Street Gardens. Some rooms have no window.
Large hostel near the top of Leith Walk, about 10 minutes walk from Waverley Station. It serves meals and the cafe is open to the public. There is also a self-catering kitchen, and plasma screens abound. In addition to dormitories, some rooms (including singles) are available.
Good value Accor chain hotel 100 yards from the bus station.
Reliable chain hotel with spacious rooms for the price, and a/c. Some rooms have views over the New Town and Forth.
Bright modern place at the west end of Princes St.
Traditional hotel with lovely views, but the lift is chronically out of action.
Jazzy hotel near Charlotte Square, spacious rooms. No dogs.
Restaurant in a Georgian town house with four rooms. No dogs.
The former Grosvenor re-opened in 2025, so it's sparkling fresh and eager to please.
Quiet backwater off busy streets at the foot of Calton Hill. Comfy and great value, tiny bathrooms.
Slick welcoming hotel with great dining.
The Caledonian
Grand hotel presiding over the west end of Princes St, facing the castle. It was built as the terminus station and hotel for the Caledonian Railway, vying with the rival North British terminus at the east end, now Waverley. The latter became the definitive city terminus, the west end station was demolished in 1970 and "The Caley" was able to expand. Citizens also discovered that it was rose pink, when 70 years of grime was scrubbed off. It earns good but not great reviews for comfort, service and dining in its three restaurants. The property is now owned by an Abu Dhabi holding company but continues to be operated by Hilton.
249-room hotel on busy George Street. The hotel was built as townhouses in the 1780s and knocked through into a hotel in 1881. Great scores for comfort, service and location.
Very central location, but poky old rooms and no lift.
This baronial pile opened in 1902 as the terminus and hotel of the North British Railway, just pipping the rival Caledonian at the other end of Princes St. Its landmark clock tower is always three minutes fast to speed dawdlers towards their train. The NB Hotel was rebuilt to become the Balmoral in 1990. Great service and trad ambience, some visitors found it dated.
Hotel (more like a B&B) at the edge of Stockbridge. Tiny rooms and beds, tall guests will suffer.
On a charming garden squares, this 199-room was seven inter-connecting Georgian townhouses, built in 1791 to a design by Robert Adam, and converted to a hotel in 1881.
formerly Lateral City
Plush studios and apartments between railway and bus stations.
Comfy central hotel, service spasmodic.
Shopping centre which opened in 2021, replacing the tired St James Centre, includes John Lewis department store, and 3 floors of mid- and up-market chain stores. Also here are the W Hotel, Roomzzz aparthotel and several restaurants. Too bad about the curling tapered roof sculpture, which looks like a . . . well, enough to spoil the view.
Upmarket mainstream shops in a covered mall above Waverley station.
Eastern outpost of the famous Glasgow institution. Broad range at keen prices with helpful service.
Classy selection of cards, home accessories, toys and gifts. Their other branches are at 53 Lothian Rd and 194 Morningside Rd.
Funky little shop with a lovely range of cards and gifts.
Award-winning butchers shop, established 1955. Great quality local meat, especially their range of sausages.
The original Edinburgh "health food" shop, opened in 1975. Sells a wide range of loose and packet dried goods, some vegetarian ready meals and snacks and a small selection of organic fruit and veg.
Legendary Italian deli founded in 1934. Its grey frontage is unassuming, but it stretches back through a wonderland of food. There's a small bright cafe in the back, where you'll be lucky to get seated.
Second-hand vinyl record shop with a great selection, quality stock and reasonable prices. They also have CDs, T-shirts, posters and fanzines.
Family-run business established in the 1930s. Specialises in model railways, including some items exclusive to this shop. Also die-cast model vehicles, Scalextric slot car racing systems and plastic and wooden model construction kits.
Waverley Station is at the east end of Princes St, with trains from all parts: see Edinburgh#Get in for routes.
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