Town in Scotland
Photo: Graeme Yuill, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Linlithgow is a small town in The Lothians in central lowland Scotland, 20 miles west of Edinburgh. It's a commuter town for the city, with a population in 2020 of 12,840. Its main attraction is the ruined palace, birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots, overlooking the town and scenic loch.
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Ruined but imposing medieval palace. A fort stood here in the 14th century but it and much of the town burned down. King James I rebuilt it, his successors continued to embellish it, and Mary Queen of Scots was born here in 1542. But it became neglected after the monarchy moved to England, part-collapsing in 1607: King James VI&I paid for repairs but didn't resume residence. Bonnie Prince Charlie briefly passed this way in 1745, excuse enough for the Duke of Cumberland to burn down whatever was left.
One of Scotland's finest medieval churches, completed in 1540. It fell into disrepair in the 19th century and the crown steeple (resembling St Giles, Edinburgh) had to be dismantled, but in 1964 an aluminium crown was installed. It remains in use as a Church of Scotland: it's not to be confused with St Michael's Roman Catholic church nearby, one of Pugin's Gothic creations completed in 1893.
Small museum of town life: local industries and features. The prolific Tam Dalyell's typewriter is among the historic artefacts, amazing it didn't melt in a white heat of keys. The nearby Annet House museum has closed.
Blackness was the port for the Royal Burgh of Linlithgow, so the monarchs often travelled this way, and it needed to be stoutly defended. The 15th century castle looks like a stone ship about to sail out into the Firth of Forth. Good views of the Forth Bridges.
is an early 17th century mansion, now run by National Trust for Scotland, It was the home of Tam Dalyell (1932-2017), who coined the "West Lothian Question" on Scotland's position within the UK parliament. The house can be visited on guided tours booked through website only, but the extensive grounds remain free to enjoy, no dogs. The "binns" are the two small "bens" (hills) which the estate ranges over.
A 370-hectare country park in the Bathgate hills above Linlithgow. Activities including archery, canoeing, kayaking, climbing, pioneering, orienteering, hillcraft and skiing. Beecraigs also hosts a deer farm, trout fishery, sawmill and campsite, see "Sleep".
Michelin starred fine-dining restaurant (booking recommended), and the less formal but still highly-rated Chop & Ale House (no bookings, just turn up). Particularly proud of its beef, oysters are also a specialty, from their own rock pool. Also has 16 rooms.
Next to the railway station, the building dates back to 1759, and was converted into a pub in the 1840s. Has good food and accommodation, and the Folk Club have live music sessions.
Belhaven pub, named for the four ladies-in-waiting to MQOS. Friendly, slick service, wide range of ales and spirits - and no TV! They have a cask ale festival here on the last weekend of May and Oct.
Open all year, with camping, glamping in Little Lodges, and 26 hard-standing pitches for tourers.
Upscale hotel set in rolling farmland. Also with self-catering.
By plane: Linlithgow is 11 miles west of Edinburgh Airport. There's no direct public transport, so the choice is:
Read in the guideLinlithgow is small enough to walk around. Town bus L1 loops round the town via the residential areas of Springfield, Braehead, Listloaning and Linlithgow Bridge.
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Ingliston, Edinburgh · International · EDI
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