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Town in East Lothian, Scotland
Photo: John Allan, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
North Berwick is a town on the coast of East Lothian in central Scotland, with a population of 7840 in 2020. It's an attractive fishing port and beach resort, nowadays a commuter town for Edinburgh 20 miles west. Several uninhabited nearby islands are seabird reserves, the most prominent being the Bass Rock.
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The Firth of Forth is an important area for nesting seabirds and migratory species. The centre has telescopes and webcams for viewing the thousands of gannets in their colonies on the Bass Rock and other islands. Common here are puffins, guillemots, razorbills, kittwakes and eider ducks. The interpretive centre is well done, with lots to keep the kids entertained. Best times to visit are May-July for nesting birds, and Sept-Oct for the baby seals. Good cafe with sea-view terrace.
Volunteer-run museum with changing exhibitions.
A 14th-century fortress, spectacularly located on a headland, with Bass Rock to the north. A single massive curtain wall encloses the headland, with the other three sides defended naturally by cliffs. The site remains closed because of crumbling masonry.
Good for breads, pastries and patisserie. Card payment only. They have another branch in East Linton.
Slick quirky place for good coffee and bites.
Great reviews for their crab, lobster and other seafood. The only seating area is outside but is covered and heated. They also do takeaway and have long queues at lunchtime.
Good offerings of seafood, fish and burgers, healthy portions. They're in the old coastguard station - the "rocketeers" launched lines by rocket to stricken ships, in a flurry of moustaches and derring-do.
Cosy Italian with the usual fare.
Pleasant town centre hotel with bistro.
Smart 12-room hotel in a 19th-century house, clean and friendly, good value. Dog-friendly.
83-room hotel, much improved since refurbishment, a few areas are still tatty.
Clean well-run site a mile east of town, open Apr-Oct.
Great reviews for this golf resort hotel and spa. The original archers were in “proud Edward’s army” of 1314, the one that was sent homeward to think again. The mansion was first built in the 17th century but fell derelict. It was re-built in the 1970s.
Bicycle sales, repairs and hire. Hires must be booked at least 24 hours in advance.
By bus
Lothian Buses X5 and 124 run from Edinburgh along Princes Street (close to but not into the bus station) then via Musselburgh along the coast road to North Berwick.
By road
North Berwick is on A198, the scenic loop road along the coast north of A1.
Eve Coach 120 runs past Tantallon Castle on its way to Dunbar. Eve Coach 121 takes 35 min to Haddington every couple of hours daily, via Drem railway station, the Museum of Flight at East Fortune, and Athelstaneford.
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