Town in Fife, Scotland
Photo: Son of Groucho from Scotland, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
St Andrews is a town on the coast of Fife in northeast Scotland. With a population of 16,930 in 2021, it's an attractive place famous for its ancient university and as the "home of golf".
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This is the quadrangle of St Salvator's College and several academic departments are based here, though the university has abandoned the collegiate system for all but ceremonial purposes. Originally medieval, it became tumbledown and was rebuilt in Jacobean style in the 19th century. Its notable buildings are the college chapel, tower and tenement, and the Hebdomodar's building; St Salvator's Hall just east is a student residence built in the 1930s. The chapel, dating from 1450, conducts university services every Sunday, with staff and students in traditional garb. (The red gowns are for all undergrads except St Mary's; the slant at which they're worn denotes the student's year and subject.) After chapel, the students parade to the end of the pier to commemorate John Honey, who in 1800 hastened from the chapel to rescue five sailors from the stricken ship Janet. On North Street just outside the quad, the letters PH are set in the cobbles. Here Patrick Hamilton was burned at the stake in 1528 for his Lutheran heresies, such as preaching that Gospel and Law are separate things. It's said to be bad luck to walk on the letters, and that students who do so will flunk - this curse may be expunged by bathing in the sea at dawn on 1st May (the May Dip).
St Mary's College has always been the theology school or Faculty of Divinity, and these undergrads wear black gowns, befitting their sober future as church ministers. Enter through the black iron gates inscribed "In Principio Erat Verbum:" the opening of John's Gospel, "In the beginning was the Word". Left of the gate is Lower Parliament Hall, where the Scottish Parliament relocated from plague-stricken Edinburgh 1645-6; it's now the university Debating Hall. The building on the left of the quad, formerly the library, is now the School of Psychology. The tree on the right side was planted by Mary Queen of Scots; she didn't plant the large oak tree in the centre. Far side of the quad is a ruined gateway, now being restored, into the 20th-century Bute Medical School.
Founded as the University Botanic Gardens in 1889 and now run by Fife Council, these are beautiful landscaped gardens, with different habitats (water garden, heath, peat, rock garden, Chinese, Chile garden). Eight glass houses hold orchids, cactus, alpine and tropical plants.
Museum about the history of St Andrews. Displays of old shops, furniture, art relating to local area, gardens, and souvenir shop.
Exhibiting golf through the ages, next to the famous course where the sport was first codified.
Aquarium with seals, fish, reptiles, penguins; feeding sessions and talks. Small building at street level, most of it's hidden below ground.
Museum about the history of St Andrews in a Victorian mansion. Also regular temporary exhibitions.
There's been a bishop's palace here since the 12th century, which successive armies wrecked; the present building is from 1400. It hosted royalty and also prisoners; in 1478 the unlucky Archbishop Patrick Graham was deemed insane and incarcerated in his own "palace". In 1546 during the Reformation, a Protestant preacher was burnt at the stake here, so his followers got in pretending to be building workers, lynched the cardinal, and barricaded themselves in. In the ensuing siege, a sapper-mine and counter-mine were dug through the underlying solid rock, which you can explore. The castle fell into disuse and in 1656 the burgh council took much of its material to re-build the pier. So it's now a picturesque shell in a great scenic location.
Ruined cathedral. Built from 1158 to 1318, it was the principal Catholic church in Scotland before the Reformation, then was ransacked and fell derelict. Like the castle much of its masonry was removed in the 17th century for other buildings. St Rule's (adjacent, same ticket) was an earlier church: the tower still stands but is unsafe to enter. Another, St Mary on the Rock, was the collegiate church of the Culdees, who enjoyed a century-long feud with the Augustinians - it's by the shore just north, but little remains.
It really was a cow byre when it started in 1933, but the present building is the third. The company is now run by the University, and puts on a variety of repertory productions and some touring productions. The cafe-bar is open 10AM-3PM.
Leisure and fitness complex with swimming pool, flumes, gym, squash and sauna.
Pleasant brasserie in a former post office. Gets busy, occasional service malfunctions.
Excellent ice cream. They have 54 flavours including Irn-Bru sorbet.
Coffee and light bites. Small place so you may struggle to get seated. No toilets.
Great dining on the seafront.
Belhaven pub with island bar, good range of beers and ales. Traditional bar meals.
Friendly pub with great selection of European beers and ales. Downstairs is the Cellar Bar specialising in real ales. Live trad Scottish music several nights a week.
Brewpub with decent meals, dog-friendly. Brewery tours are F 18:00 and Sa 17:00, book online.
Clean spacious site open April-Oct.
Reliable mid-price chain.
Peaceful and spotlessly clean, B&B in late-Georgian terraced house. On-street parking is free if you can find a space.
Pleasant 3-roomed B&B near university.
Spacious welcoming B&B west end of centre.
A chic country house hotel, dog- and child-friendly.
Self-catering lodges in a pet-friendly holiday park with hot tubs and access to resort facilities: gym, sauna, steam room and golf simulator.
Smart welcoming hotel by the Old Course.
formerly Scores Hotel
This upmarket golfing hotel next to the course re-opened in Feb 2025.
Great location overlooking the town golf courses and the North Sea. Good facilities, but sometimes understaffed. Within the complex are Jigger Inn, Hams Hame, Swilcan Loft and the Conservatory restaurants plus spa.
Good reviews for comfort, food and service.
Part of Fairmont - Accor chain, this resort hotel complex gets rave reviews for comfort and service.
18th-century coaching inn, long renowned for its cuisine (see above for hours) and now achieving similar acclaim for its accommodation. 8 rooms in contemporary style, one is suitable for limited mobility, the others are split-level. No dogs.
Acclaimed bakery and confectioner, their fudge doughnuts are the house speciality. There's another branch at 197 South Street, and more in Cupar and Dundee.
Upmarket cheese shop, also has outlets in Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen.
All official university merchandise, clothing and so on.
By train
Leuchars railway station is 6 miles west of town.
By bus
Stagecoach Fife Bus 99 runs 5:30AM-11PM from Dundee via Leuchars station to St Andrews; daytime it's every 10 min. There are night buses to 3AM on Friday and Saturday night.
By road
By car from the south follow M90 over the Forth on Queen's Crossing (no toll) then A91 east to town.
Walk. You might use bus 95 to reach Kingsbarns, or 99 for Guardbridge and Leuchars. The main taxi ranks are at the bus station, and on Bell Street which connects Market Street and South Street.
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