Bagan (Burmese ပုဂံ) is an area and archaeological site in the Central region of Myanmar, inscribed as a .
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အာနန္ဒာ ဘုရား
Bagan's holiest temple, built by the third king, Kyan-Zit-Tha in 1091. Ananda is the name of one of the Buddha's principal disciples, and comes from the Pali word "anantapannya", which means "boundless wisdom". The temple houses four Buddhas facing the cardinal directions, which represent the four Buddhas who have attained Nirvana. The fifth, Maitreya, is yet to appear. It has been renovated to remove the white and black washed paint and to make way for a sandy reddish cover, which now allows for impressive and distinct views/pictures like no other temple in Bagan. The temple restoration has been undertaken with help of India.
Commissioned by King Narathu to atone for the sins of assassinating his father, brother, and wife. He is said to have had his wife killed for following Hindu traditions. The eccentricity of this king is reflected in the building's finely set brickwork: he executed a bricklayer for his imperfect masonry, and ordered that bricks should be laid such that there is not enough space for even a needle to pass through. Also mysterious is its unfinished construction (work abandoned after he himself was assassinated). Inner vaults are large and current occupants include bats. It is believed to be a haunted temple by some inhabitants, but clearly not by the noisy hawkers who set up shop right in front of the Buddha and appear to live in the side passages. China is helping to restore the temple.
Built by the Mon King Manuhar from the nearby kingdom of Thaton, once a prisoner of King Anawratha. When released, he sold his jewellery and built this temple. A good testimony to Mon architecture. This temple contains three sitting Buddhas and one reclining Buddha. It is said that Manuhar built this to reflect his feelings of claustrophobia and despair during imprisonment. The sitting Buddhas are in a half-smile, but if seen from below which you are forced to if you enter through the front entrance, it would look like they are frowning.
Meaning "Blessings of the Three Worlds" and very famous with tourists. Built in 1218 by King Nantaungmya. It is probably the last temple built in this area and using Myanmar style. Interestingly carved reliefs surround the doorways.
Commissioned by King Alaunsithu in 1131, one of the most intact temples, thus needing less imagination to appreciate.
Finished in 1102 during the reign of King Anawrahta, this temple is said to contain a bone and tooth relic of Gautama Buddha. This gourd-stupa-ed golden pagoda was the prototype monument used for building many other structure (including for the iconic Shwedagon Pagoda of Yangon, the second holiest in Myanmar) built in Myanmar-style in 1087. It is fairly well maintained. Intricate dancing figures on the top of the many halls inside the complex make this a great location to appreciate the artwork from old Bagan. In one of the structures, you can see drawings on the ceilings depicting the different stages of life: birth, youth, monk, old age and death. There is a long walkway in front of the temple, with shops whose shopkeepers will try their very best while you make your way to the temple. In May 2016, the pagoda was being renovated and was covered with scaffolding.
That Byin Nyu Guphayagyi
That Byin Nyu Temple was built in the mid-12th century during the reign of King Alaungsithu. Adjacent to Ananda Temple, it is the tallest structure in Bagan. “Thatbyinnyu” means “omniscience”, which the Buddha is said to have attained upon enlightenment. There are some run-down temples nearby That Byin Nyu, and an old city wall that is a short walk away.
Tiered pagoda very popular for sunrise and sunset.
A fusion of Burmese and Indian styles, this temple has a beautiful courtyard with a medium-sized stupa and interesting bell hangers. It is a symbol of modern Bagan architecture, and possibly the second tallest temple in Bagan. The temple is similar in layout to Thatbyinnyu Temple. The temple was heavily damaged during the earthquake in 1975, but has been reconstructed.
Myazedi pagoda contains the Myazedi inscription, inscribed in 1113, which is the oldest surviving stone inscription of the Burmese as recognized by UNESCO at this site. "Myazedi" means "emerald stupa". The inscriptions were made in four languages: Burmese, Pyu, Mon, and Pali, which all tell the story of Prince Yazakumar and King Kyansittha. The primary importance of the Myazedi inscription is that the inscriptions allowed for the deciphering of the written Pyu language, thus acting as the 'Rosetta stone' of Pyu language.
The nearby Gu Byauk Gyi temple is well-worth a visit for its enormous frescoes covering every inch of its inner walls. There is scarce lighting inside, but thoughtfully two large torches are provided which allow you to appreciate the artwork.
Great for sunrise at 05:00 and far less crowded than Shwesandaw, but it has become more popular in the last years. The second and third terraces lie beyond the tree line and you can easily spot Shwesandaw with its masses. If it is closed for sunrise try the pagoda and temple 100 m away.
One of the few temples with an outdoor Buddha. Allows for great pictures from the opposite field. The nearby Sinmyashin Temple with its golden top is equally appealing.
Unusually-shaped five corner, circular pagoda made of bricks. Built in 1196 when King Narapatisithu ruled.
This lone golden gourd-shaped structure sits on a complex temple by the river.
A beautiful temple built in 1183 by King Narapatisithu, and very popular in dry season due to the road being more accessible. It has many frescoes and murals which are fairly well-preserved and worth taking a look. Observe the monks drawn on the walls on either side of the Buddha praying in obeisance pointing towards the Buddha. There is also a block with Myanmarese inscriptions inside the temple. In wet season, the access road is muddy and poor, meaning there are fewer tourists and hawkers here compared to other temples. Sulamani means 'the gem'.
Ama, a temple, was built in the 12th century, typically squared with entrances to all four directions. Nyima, a stupa, has guardian lions on its corners.
Pyathatgyi
Large hallways and a beautiful large terrace. The Buddha can be seen from the top of the terrace through the outer access hallway also. In wet season, the road can be very bad, meaning that tour groups are generally absent and the temple can be quite peaceful. If you get here in the morning hours, the terrace view is very much worth the mud-trail ride. Offers quite a view of Old Bagan overall. If you come in the pre-rainy season (May–June), you can also watch the beautiful sight of farmers tilling the untilled land in preparation for sowing, with a flock of crows following. This temple is being restored with the help of Singapore.
A smaller temple largely forgotten by tourists and hawkers, and often used as a lovers' lane by locals. If you can make it through the terrible road, its terrace offers very peaceful views. Myauk Guni is north of its sibling Taung Guni.
A well-signposted and easily accessed temple. A good place for quiet and unobstructed views of the surrounding farms and temples.
This durian-shaped stupaed temple was modelled after Bodh Gaya in India. It has also murals depicting scenes from the Jataka tales. Its less visited sibling Gu Byauk Nge is just west. However, access is not granted by the caretaker anymore. Therefore, try the squared Shin Bo Me Ok Kyaung (also mentioned below for a sleeping option under the stars), 450 m down the road southwest.
Named after a well-known monk and built in the middle of the 13th century, this rectangular hall has roof instalments imitative of Burmese wood architecture and a tiny central spire going up from the roof. Many other similar buildings have been long gone due to its wooden construction.
A notable feature of the temple is the blue-tiles set on the walls of the top-tiers, depicting Jataka tiles made of glazed terracotta. Though there used to be 1061 of them, even now, several hundred of the tiles are still intact. If you are aware of Jataka, you can spend quite some time here making out some of the stories.
Another unremarkable temple.
Said to be built by King Uzana's wife Thambula. Well illuminated, the Chinese influence is clearly visible: Chinese eyes, hair and yellow.
The word means "three pagodas", which it is. Built during the 13th century with visible Mahayana influences it was never finished, potentially due to the invasion of the Mongols.
Built around 1200, this temple made of thousands of bricks is named after its owner. The structure is a distinct built up of cells around a patio in the middle.
A Buddha south of Somingyi Kyaung. Allows for a very nice picture.
A visually striking building, the size of which far exceeds what is needed for its contents. The majority of the items on display are miniature recreations of traditional village life, not-very-good paintings of the surrounding temples & stupas, and so many Buddha statues that even the most devote Buddhist would concede is excessive.
During school breaks, boys are inducted into monkhood with this ritual. This can be observed with the first signs of loud temple music blaring out a day before and on the day itself coming from the monastery. On the day itself, the boys are brought to the monastery by parents and relatives dressed in gowns, crowns, flowers, sequins, and glitter, stockings, and make-up. An audience gathers. The place itself is colourfully festooned. A small show consists of songs by hired singers accompanied by ensemble music, a pep talk by a layman and some rituals. After some photos with their parents, the boys are brought again to another monastery to be stripped, heads shaved and bathed. Finally, they are assembled in the hall in front of the abbot for prayer recitation, oath taking, and robe-blessing ceremonies, after which they are totally stripped and dressed in their new vestments by their parents. They will stay the rest of their school holiday in the monastery.
If you have not seen monks alms-gathering and bestowing blessings, get there at 07:00. and see the monks wearing their burgundy vests. There is even a herd of little monks as young as 3- or 5- to 10-year olds parading barefoot with the tallest down to the smallest toeing the line and with the eldest and the shepherd of them all brotherly escorting the last and the youngest (a heartwarming sight to see). By the way, the first in the parade is the announcer carrying his little bell and beater. Other spectacles are the also baldheaded nuns with their pink robes, orange skirts and beige-ochre shoulder-to-armpit wrapped towels. Their way of alms gathering is different: they use woven cane trays carried over their heads and receive only one spoonful of uncooked rice from each donor.
Some temples became elaborate and have murals, but it's a waste of time trying to see them as the majority have are in dark interiors. It is not worth taking off your shoes and socks to get in. The only exceptions are the Paya Thone Zu, the Gu Byauk Gyi Temple and the Upali Thein Ordination Hall where natural light can penetrate. It is better to go to the archeological museum to see scale reproductions, or buy the book on the subject sold at all souvenir bookshops.
For an unparalleled view of the Bagan plain, you can take a hot air balloon ride at sunrise. These balloons are British-made and have a perfect safety record. They do not operate during the summer. The flight departs around 05:00 every morning from October to April.
This is the most convenient option for doing the comprehensive tour. Cars are privately owned but they must be government accredited as indicated by a big sticker on the door of the car. The rental office is in the tourist information office at New Bagan.
This large tower has an elevator to the top for views of the surrounding plains. Alternatively, if you want to save the money, consider these other official viewing platforms (at): Ko Mauk Lake, Oh Htein Kone, Nyaung Lat Phat Kan or Sulamani Kone.
Mon-style lacquerware is a traditional art and small-scale industry in Myanmar, and nowhere is it better to see this than Bagan. It is said the Mon King Manuha brought his artisans with him into exile here. In Myinkaba village, several small setups produce lacquerware out of wood or bamboo. Many of these are family-based businesses, and they will give you free tours and detailed explanations of the intricate process for free in English, with no pressure to purchase.
A hilltop pagoda offering views of the entire city of Bagan from the other side if the river. To get there you have to get a boat from Bu Paya stupa in Old Bagan. On the other side, you can walk up a long path to the temple (not possible in wet season and looks like a hard slog even in the dry) or take a 4WD for another 20,000 kyat. Worthwhile a half-day trip, even if it costs almost as much as going to Mount Popa.
This is a day trip or a stopover to and from Bagan, depending on where you come from or go. This attraction is a temple on a cliff. You walk up the stairs from the underlying village (about 100 m), barefoot as the place is considered holy. The stairs are not very clean because of the presence of large numbers of monkeys. You can even climb the actual mountain when taking the road 1.3 km before the mountain village, by Popa Mountain Resort and up the track to the crater. The views from the temple are good and from the crater even better. Pick-up trucks can be organised at hotels or at the market in Nyaung U.
There are alfresco restaurants lining this road serving complete budget meals. A meal priced at 1,600 kyat consists of rice with the main dish, two bite sizes of beef, pork, or two small chicken pieces, or about a dozen smelt pieces, plus clear broth and 4 small plates of appetizer-veggies, beans, salads, pickled veggies. There are also tourist restaurants in this area towards Old Bagan, some of which are good but all have high prices.
Has a string of restaurants catering to tourists, most of which are quite good.
One of the few places with an atmosphere, set in a green courtyard just off the restaurant row. Local and Western dishes and wine available.
A great veggie restaurant. All food on the extensive menu is freshly prepared, and there is always a special dish of the day. Seats around 15, so you will not have to sit with big tour groups. The staff are quite friendly and generally better at speaking English than the average Myanmar citizen. The special Myanmar coffee you see on the menu is actually tea.
Good food and good service. Food is a mix of local Myanmarese and western. The milkshakes are good, and beer is available.
Local cafe. Tea/coffee (milk tea 500 kyat), Shan style noodles.
Nice, atmospheric luxury hotel invoking the charm of ancient Myanmar.
Friendly, clean and cheap. WiFi. Good value. Spacious rooms with 2 beds and en suite bathroom.
WiFi, 24 hr desk, AC, luggage storage. Has many dorm beds, and is popular with backpackers.
Breakfast buffet, clean rooms, spacious, WiFi. Ideal for backpackers, but no dorms.
Garden and pool are OK, but the cold environment from the shade of trees is priceless. The rooms are well-decorated with woods and bamboo fixtures and art. Dinner and dance shows at outdoor restaurant, buffet breakfast with local and continental menus are so delicious. Friendly staff, and then manager is helpful. Also try kadayaunghotel@gmail.com .
Has 17 deluxe rooms and some "suites". Friendly staff, but neighbouring rooms can be loud. Spacious, WiFi, AC, coffee/tea, fridge, fruits. Also try tshwe@yangon.net.mm .
2-storey building. Good, and quiet hotel. Wide choice for breakfast.
They have a convenient roof terrace for amazing sunsets and sunrise views. Cleanliness could be improved, including the breakfast and common amenities.
Bungalows and pool. Many restaurants nearby. Single rooms are a little small. Friendly and clean. Also try shweyeepwinthotel@gmail.com .
Bungalows and rooms overlooking a rebuilt pagoda. There is also a salon, expensive Internet access, a limited library, billiards, a scenic pool and a nice breakfast room.
Cleanly maintained and exceptionally dust-free for its category. Air-con, TV, private bath with hot water and breakfast. Good English speaking informative staff. Good service. Free WiFi.
Breakfast on the roof. Car and bicycle rental available.
Including breakfast. Bicycle rent. Fan and shared bathroom, or AC and en-suite. Great location, inexpensive rooms and clean.
Rooms on the roof are nicer and quieter. WiFi usually doesn't work. Not the cleanest place, but OK. Bikes can be rented. The owner speaks very good English and is very informative and helpful.
AC, bathroom, TV, fridge, restaurant. Recommended.
Budget hotel in Nyaung U close to the market. Free WiFi, clean rooms, very friendly and helpful staff, breakfast included. Horse cart hire for 30,000 kyat and one-way airport transfers of 5,000 kyat.
Clusters of rooms set in bungalows around a central pool. Close to the market. Excellent service. Dispenses free map. Also try info@thantenyu.com. Free airport shuttle. Restaurant with puppet show each evening.
This is the replacement for New Heaven Hotel and Golden Village. Not as cheap as before, but highly recommended.
3-star hotel out of town in a quiet area, featuring views of the mountain ranges. 2 kinds of rooms: superior & deluxe; both feature comfortable beds, AC, TV, minibar; deluxe are even bigger, have bathtub & a terrace. Buffet continental breakfast 06:30-09:30 taken at their onsite restaurant, providing a nice view over the premises and mountains in the background. Swimming pool. Gym room. Free parking. Free wifi throughout the property. Extra services: spa, e-bike hire. Tours of Bagan & transportation to other cities can be arranged. Boardgames available, newspapers, library & even book swap; in each room one can even find thanakhar, a natural product that locals use both as a skin care & to preserve traditions.
A luxury resort at a bargain price. It is a bit outside "everything", so to get to the nearest town or even shop it's necessary to rent a bike or take a taxi. It's a very quiet, beautiful and tranquil place. They can arrange horse cart rides to see the temples with pick up from the hotel for 13-15,000 kyat for a full day. Bikes can be borrowed free of charge. Nice large swimming pool. WiFi is free of charge as well in the lobby. The restaurant serves excellent food and is not too expensive. The reception staff are very friendly, polite and helpful. The rooms are big, only problem with that is that the small air-con units in the rooms have a hard time cooling the rooms. Owned by a local Chinese business man. Also try sale1@amazing-hotel.com .
Located in the hallway of Ananda Temple, you can find all of your pirated book needs. Buy cheap copies of books like Twilight Over Burma, The Glass Palace and Burmese Days.
This is a family run lacquerware shop just behind Golden Cuckoo in Myinkaba village. It's a little hard to find, but turn onto the street where the Golden Cuckoo sign is, go past the shop and head to the right hand side. Jasmine family will be on the right hand side of the lane. The shop is run by the friendly Shein Aung, and he will show you how they make their lacquer and explain the differences in quality (lacquer sold in front of temples is low quality).
Locals sell everything here they desire for their daily life. Focused on goods for locals not tourists.
Nyaung U Market
Convenient if you are staying in Nyaung U, the market is in the middle of town and is half tourist market half local market. Wander around and look at the meat, vegetables, wickerware and other goods for sale.
By bus
By train
It is sometimes rough, smelly, slow and full of insects. Those train tickets are worth their prices. It can make for a nice story if you survive the night.
By boat
The boat from and to Mandalay is at Nyaung U Jetty, 1.5 km northeast of Nyaung U market. Another point for ferries is the Old Bagan Pier, 350 m northeast of Bu Paya.
By plane
From the airport to New Bagan takes about 15–20 min by car, and usually this will cost around 7-10,000 kyat. Most mid-range and luxury hotels will provide free pickup from the airport.
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An archaeological site (or archeological site) is any place with physical evidence of past human activity. Such sites might be from pre-history as well as history, and the oldest sites can be considered paleontology.
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