Bagan sits on a bend of the Ayeyarwady River in central Myanmar. Between the 11th and 13th centuries, the kings of Pagan built more than 10,000 temples, stupas and monasteries here. UNESCO now counts over 3,500 surviving monuments, and the site has been on the World Heritage list since 2019.
Nothing quite prepares you for it. Red brick spires rise out of the scrub in every direction, as far as you can see.
Any honest Bagan travel guide has to start with safety, then money, and the prices below are in US dollars because the kyat has lost much of its value since 2021 and local prices change fast.
Bagan travel guide basics: the zone fee
Every foreign visitor pays the zone fee, which you buy at Nyaung-U Airport, at the bus station or at the checkpoints on the roads into the plain.
As of October 2026, the Bagan archaeological zone fee is 25,000 kyat per person. The pass usually covers five days, though some checkpoints quote three, so ask when you pay.
Keep the paper ticket with you. Staff check it at the big temples, such as Ananda, Htilominlo and Shwezigon.
Don't climb the temples. Since 2016, climbing has been banned at almost every monument to protect the old brickwork and to stop people falling. A few small temples still let visitors onto a lower terrace, so follow the signs and the staff.
How to get to Bagan
Most visitors fly. Domestic flights from Yangon to Nyaung-U take about 80 minutes, and from Mandalay about 30. Air KBZ and Myanmar National Airlines run the main routes.
Buses are cheaper but slow: the overnight bus from Yangon takes nine to ten hours, and the road from Mandalay about five. Checkpoints can add time, and roads can close at short notice.
River boats from Mandalay have run in the dry season in past years, taking most of a day. Check that your boat is sailing before you plan around it.
Where to stay in Bagan
The plain has three bases. Each suits a different budget.
Nyaung-U is the main town, close to the airport and the bus station. It has the cheapest guesthouses, a busy market and plenty of e-bike shops. Ananda Temple is about 15 minutes away by e-bike.
Old Bagan sits inside the old city walls, first built in the ninth century, right among the monuments. You can walk to several famous temples, but you'll pay for it: rooms here often cost three times what they do elsewhere.
New Bagan was built in 1990, when the government moved villagers out of the old city. It's quieter, with mid-range hotels, pools and lacquerware workshops.
| Base | Best for | Typical room (USD) | Distance to the main temples |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nyaung-U | Backpackers, solo travellers | $15–$30 | 4–6 km |
| Old Bagan | Short stays, heritage hotels | $80 and up | Under 1 km |
| New Bagan | Couples, mid-range | $35–$70 | 2–4 km |
Getting around by e-bike
The easiest way to explore is on an electric scooter, which everyone calls an e-bike. They're quiet, slow and easy to ride, and you don't need a motorbike licence.
As of October 2026, expect to pay about $5 to $8 a day. A full charge covers 40 to 50 kilometers, which is enough for a long day of temple hopping.
The sandy tracks are the tricky part. Go slowly, and walk the bike through deep sand.
If you'd rather not ride, hire a car with a driver for the day. It's worth it in the midday heat or in the rain.
The Bagan temples you shouldn't miss
You can't see thousands of temples. Start with these four, then wander.
Ananda Temple
King Kyansittha finished Ananda in 1105. Its white terraces and gilded spire make it the easiest temple to recognise on the plain.
Inside stand four 9.5-meter standing Buddhas, one facing each direction, and two of them seem to smile from a distance but look serious when you stand right below them. Stand back, then walk forward, and you'll see it.
Dhammayangyi Temple
Dhammayangyi is the biggest temple in Bagan, a huge brick pyramid built by King Narathu around 1170. Legend says he wanted the bricks laid so tightly that a needle couldn't pass between them.
Narathu was killed before it was finished, and the inner corridors were later filled with rubble. They're still sealed today.
Thatbyinnyu Temple
At 61 meters, Thatbyinnyu is the tallest temple on the plain. King Alaungsithu built it in 1144, and its white walls stand out from the red brick around it.
Shwezigon Pagoda
Shwezigon, near Nyaung-U, is a gold bell-shaped stupa begun by King Anawrahta and finished by Kyansittha. Later Burmese stupas copied its shape, including the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon. Our guide to historical places in Myanmar covers Shwedagon and Mandalay too.
Sunrise, sunset and the Bagan hot air balloon season
Sunrise over the stupas of Old Bagan is the moment most people come for. Mist hangs in the trees, and the spires appear one by one.
Since you can't climb the temples, use the viewing mounds built around the plain, or the Nan Myint viewing tower. Get there 45 minutes before sunrise. Bring a head torch for the sandy paths and a warm layer for winter mornings.
The Bagan hot air balloon season runs in the dry months, roughly mid-October to March. Flights restarted on 15 October 2026, according to state media, at about $165 a person. Book with an established operator and check its safety record first.
Lacquerware and food
Bagan is famous for lacquerware. In Myinkaba village and New Bagan, family workshops make bowls and boxes from bamboo, horsehair and tree sap. One good piece can take months of layering, drying and carving.
Dinner usually means a Burmese curry set. You pick chicken, fish or mutton, and it comes with rice, soup and a table full of small side dishes. Try tea leaf salad (lahpet thoke) too.
As of October 2026, a curry set costs about $3 to $6 and a tea leaf salad $1 to $2.
What a day in Bagan costs
These figures are per person, in US dollars, as of October 2026. Prices move with the kyat, so treat them as a guide.
| Item | Backpacker | Mid-range |
|---|---|---|
| Room | $15–$30 | $35–$70 |
| Food | $6–$10 | $15–$25 |
| E-bike or car | $5–$8 | $8–$40 |
| Water, drinks, extras | $3 | $10 |
| Daily total | $29–$51 | $68–$145 |
Add the zone fee once, and any balloon flight. Bring clean US dollar notes and change them in Yangon or Mandalay, because cards often fail.
Before you go, you'll need a tourist eVisa from the official eVisa portal. You can check your passport on our visa checker.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need in Bagan?
Three full days is right for most people. You'll see the big temples, ride out to quieter ones and catch at least two sunrises.
When do the Bagan hot air balloons fly?
In the dry season, roughly mid-October to March. Flights stop in the rainy months, when the wind is unpredictable.
Is Bagan safe to visit right now?
Bagan has mostly stayed out of the fighting, yet Britain's Foreign Office still warns against non-essential trips to the region. Roads and flights can change at short notice. Check the latest advice, and your insurance, before you go.
