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Prefecture capital and Core city in Shikoku, Japan
Photo: Jyo81 (ja: User), CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Matsuyama (松山), meaning "pine mountain", is the homely capital of Ehime prefecture.
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秋山兄弟生誕地 Akiyama Kyōdai Seitanchi
Born to a lower class branch of the Matsuyama samurai clan, these two brothers became military heroes of Japan. Yoshifuru, the eldest, is credited as the father of the Japanese cavalry, while Saneyuki excelled in naval tactics. Yoshifuru traveled to France to study cavalry techniques in 1887. After serving in the Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895) he established a cavalry division which debuted in the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905). After holding numerous posts of prestige, he was promoted to General in 1916 and finally retired to become a junior high school principal in Matsuyama. A childhood friend of Shiki, Saneyuki shared his friend's love of the written word, and the two studied literature at Tokyo University. However, at the behest of his brother, Saneyuki embarked on a military career. He was sent to America to study naval tactics, and had on-the-job training during the Spanish-American War (1898). After returning to Japan, he became the foremost strategist of the Russo-Japanese War, leading to a major victory at the battle of Tsushima.
萬翠荘
This French-style building was constructed in 1922 for the former lord of Matsuyama Castle, Hisamatsu Sadakoto (久松定謨). After having lived and studied in France, Hisamatsu became enamored with the romantic architectural style, and hired Kigo Shichirō (木子七郎) to build his villa. This Taishō Era estate was the venue of many parties for the elite in its heyday, and the Emperor made it a point to visit whenever he was in the area. It is boused as an annex of the Museum of Art. The first floor's gallery changes throughout the year and is free, while the collection on the second floor showcases ink paintings by Shiki, Sōseki, and other Ehime residents.
坊っちゃんカラクリ時計
Admirers of the aforementioned Botchan may enjoy watching the Gizmo Clock beside Dōgo Onsen Station at the mouth of the shopping arcade when it chimes every hour and half hour. Botchan Karakuri Tokei was completed in 1994 to commemorate the 100th year of the last reconstruction of Dōgo Bathhouse, and the animatronics that emerge during the musical interlude depict special scenes from the novel.
道後公園・湯築城
From mid-March through April, the typically peaceful Dōgo Park is overwhelmed by inebriated locals and hawking vendors who come to take part in the most ancient of activities, hanami, or viewing of sakura (cherry blossoms). An oval shaped patch of green in the overdeveloped Dōgo neighborhood, Dōgo Kōen is an important part of Matsuyama's identity because it harbors the ruins of Yuzuki Castle. Yuzuki-jō was the residence of the Kōno Clan (河野), who ruled Iyo Province (伊予, now Ehime) from the 13th to the late 16th century, when war lord Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣秀吉) sent an army to Shikoku to conquer and unify Japan. The excavation of the 30,000-m² site took over 14 years, but the castle, gardens, and residences were all recovered. Within the recreated homes, mannequins silently act out the daily lives of the elite during that time, drinking tea and writing renga (poems composed by a group). There is also a library and a volunteer English-speaking guide can show visitors around with advance reservations.
伊佐爾波神社 Isaniwa Jinja
Sitting upon Dōgo Hill and accessible by car or climbing 135 stone steps, this important cultural asset is one of three great examples of Shinto Hachiman-zukuri (God of War) architecture in Japan. It was promised by the lord of Matsuyama Castle, Matsudaira Sadanaga (松平定長), if the gods awarded him victory in the 1667 Edo Castle Yabusame (horseback archery) competition. The outer walls are modeled after the Iwashimizu Hachiman Shrine in Kyoto, while the inner sanctum (the oldest part of the shrine) is designed in various Shinto styles of the 17th century. Memorials honoring the warlords who fought against the Kamakura battalion are guarded by stalwart dogs who watch over the four deities adorning the four corners of the vermilion structure. There are exhibitions of feudal era armor (including Matsudaira's helmet) and swords (Tachi Mei, a mid-Kamakura era piece crafted by the famous Kuniyuki Rai).
伊予かすり会館
Learn about the process of making Iyo's signature cloth and then create some of your own. Reservations necessary.
庚申庵史跡庭園
This small teahouse was built in 1790 as a gift to Kobayashi Issa (小林一茶) by his friend Kurita Chodō (栗田樗堂), from one poet to another. The design was inspired by Matsuo Bashō's idyllic hut and the name comes from the sexagenary cycle of the year. It has been restored to its former beauty. When the fujidana wisteria are in bloom, Kōshinan Shiseki Teien is truly a sight to behold. It is free to tour, but reserving the rooms is also possible.
松山城
Situated on the 130-m-tall Katsuyama Hill in the center of the city, this sprawling fortress is one of three remaining multi-wing, flat hilltop Japanese castles. It was constructed by the feudal lord Katō Yoshiaki (加藤嘉明) over the course of 25 years, completed in 1627. Four of its eight strategic gates are designated national cultural treasures, and with the wealth of historical artifacts within its majestic walls — swords and armor belonging to the three occupying families, calligraphy and official documents from the feudal era (English available) — Matsuyama-jō is well worth the hike. The castle is accessible by hiking a wooded trail, but the ropeway (¥500 roundtrip) can be boarded at the east entrance.
松山総合公園
Curiously styled as a European fortress wall and atop a hill high enough to parallel the castle, Matsuyama Sōgō Kōen provides a panoramic view of Matsuyama and features a playground for children.
愛媛県美術館
Ehimeken Bijutsukan is a surprisingly discreet 10,300-m² facility in Shiroyama Park (at the base of the castle and surrounded by a moat) and houses a permanent collection from Ehime natives such as Takubo Kyōji (mixed media sculptor) and Oki Kangaku (ink painter) as well as temporary exhibits from all over the globe. There is a rental gallery where Ehime residents can display their pieces, along with free workshops, a library, and a café.
二ノ丸史跡庭園
Located southwest of the castle on the hillside, Ninomaru Shiseki Teien is another excellent point for viewing the city. The ruins of the Matsuyama Clan estate are preserved and celebrated in a romantic mixture of contemporary fountain designs and ancient garden aesthetics. Viewable from the castle's donjon, mystical Takigi Nō (nocturnal plays by bonfire) performances take place here throughout the year, and families enjoy picnics in its quiet serenity. Many cultural events (tea ceremonies, doll exhibitions, drum performances, etc.) are hosted here.
ロシヤ人墓地
During the Russo-Japanese War, a number of Russian soldiers ended up in prison camps in Matsuyama. Not viewed as criminals but rather as warriors who loved another nation, these prisoners are said to have had a relatively easy life here. To this day, volunteers of the community respectfully tend to their tombs, which are in the center of a sacred circle of temples and shrines.
坂の上の雲ミュージアム
The name means "The Cloud Over an Upward Slope", and refers to the title of a book written by Shiba Ryōtarō (司馬 遼太郎) depicting the struggles Japanese people encountered as they rebuilt their country after the Meiji Revolution and the conflict with Russia. This impressive building, designed by well-known architect Ando Tadao (安藤忠雄), tells the stories of the aforementioned Akiyama Brothers and Masaoka Shiki. The ¥400 admission may be a little steep for non-Japanese readers as there is absolutely no English inside, but the Meiji Karakuri Theatre (moving 'stick' figures) is quite entertaining.
子規記念博物館
Located in the Dōgo area, the Shiki Kinen Hakubutsukan has a large collection of literature, artwork, and special exhibits about the life of Shiki.
子規堂
The main rooms of the house where Shiki spent the first 17 years of his life were replicated and set up in Shōjuji near the center of the city. The desk and artifacts from his childhood are displayed as he would have had them. The facility is complete with literary and artistic works discovered after his death, pictures, and even some monuments dedicated to other renowned haiku poets.
浄瑠璃寺
八坂寺
西林寺
浄土寺
繁多寺
石手寺
太山寺
円明寺
道後温泉本館
Grab your towel and go bathing! Dōgo Onsen is the oldest and most famous onsen in Japan, with a history stretching back over 3,000 years. Quite a few legends surround these waters. One says that the springs of Dōgo were discovered when, during the age of the gods, a heron placed his injured leg into hot water streaming out of a rock and was miraculously healed. Another claims that when an ill god bathed in the hot spring, the god recovered and danced for joy. The heron motif is everywhere inside the building. Tama no ishi or Yudama, the round rock from which the healing waters sprang, is the source of the symbol for Dōgo, though it looks more like a chestnut to some. There are two types of baths in the honkan for both men and women.;
In January 2019, renovation works started on the Dogo Onsen Honkan during which the bath house is closed partially over the period of seven years. During the first of two phases of the renovation works, two small baths on the first floor remain open to visitors (one for each gender), while the rest of the building, including the rest areas on the second and third floors, gets closed. Some parts of the building will be covered up by scaffolding; however, some of the building's sides (the front and north sides during the first phase of the renovations) will intentionally be kept free of scaffolding to reduce the impact on tourism.
神の湯
The "Bath of the Gods" is a simple public style bath in a pseudo-Mediterranean setting. Towels and soap are not provided but can be cheaply rented at the front. Includes access to the Exhibition Room and Botchan's Rooms.
神の湯
Bathers can use the lounge, wear a Dōgo yukata, and have tea with sembei (rice cracker) for 60 minutes. Includes access to the Exhibition Room and Botchan's Rooms.
霊の湯
The "Bath of the Spirits" 60-minute course includes use of Kami no Yu, lounge, a yukata, snacks, towel, the two aforementioned rooms and a 15 minute Yushinden tour.
霊の湯
This course is 80 minutes. The room is private, and the provided yukata has a heron design. Botchan dango (rice dumplings) are served.
えひめこどもの城 Kodomo no Jō
This vast playground (350,000 m²) consists of five play zones with slides, roller coasters and even workshops for cooking and crafts. Great for families and couples.
俳碑めぐり
Many well-known haiku writers came from or have made pilgrimages to Matsuyama, giving it the title "Town of Haiku" (俳句の里). As you tour the city, you'll find dozens of stones engraved with timeless verses. Haiku no Ro features a number of these stones. Some of the haiku artists on display are Takahama Kyoshi (高浜 虚子), Ishida Hakyō (石田波郷) and Yanagihara Kyokudō (柳原 極堂).
箏レッスン
Taught by volunteers. The koto (stringed musical instrument) and picks are provided, but reservations are required.
坐禅
Zazen, "seated meditation", is a form of Buddhist meditation used to empty the mind and simply exist in the moment. Try it out for some travel stress relief.
パットゴルフ松山コース
A family-friendly mini-golf course just outside of Matsuyama. Managed by a Canadian expat and his wife.
道後麦酒館
One of the only two restaurants privileged with having Dōgo Beer on the menu, Bakushukan is to the right of Dōgo Onsen Honkan and has a warm, semi-German theme.
五志喜本店
This restaurant is a fantastic place to experience Ehime cuisine, serving dishes such as taimeshi (fish) and goshiki soumen (五色そうめん), five-colored noodles dyed using natural ingredients: eggs, green tea, buckwheat flour, plums and shiso. Thin yet strong, these noodles make an excellent base for other regional fare.
ラルキー
There are two locations, but this is the original. Ladky's serves up the best Indian food in town. Spice potency varies with the chef's mood, so choose wisely... or order the pudding to soothe the fire.
まつちかタウン
Underground shopping arcade, opened in 1971.
にきたつ庵
A romantic and sophisticated Japanese brasserie, and the other of the two restaurants with the honor of serving Dōgo Beer. It's next door to the brewery, in fact.
One of the best kept secrets among night spots. UC has an open patio draped in the Union Jack, yet has the tastiest Mexican dishes in town. Try the quesadilla or enchilada, but don't bother with the nachos. They also serve a wide variety of highballs (¥525+), exotic beers (Sol, Pine, and Red Stripe), pasta and rice dishes (¥420+). Pictures of all dishes are available, and for ¥3000, a party of three can drink as much as they want and get a seven course meal.
道後ビール水口酒造
Local breweries are a rare find in Japan, so it's no surprise that locals take so much pride in Minakuchi Shuzō. At the end of your complimentary tour of the tiny facility, and after you've tasted each of their signature brands — the crisp Sōseki Stout, hardy Madonna Alt and mild Botchan Kölsch — you can try asking the manager what the secret is to the smooth, clean taste, but you won't get much of an answer. It could be the use of Dōgo's sacred waters or the meticulous hopps roasting technique. Beer is brewed in the spring and summer, while shōchū is made in the fall and winter.
フランキー小林
A cozy standing bar popular due to its cheap fare and the friendliest English-speaking football-loving Japanese staff on the block. Draft beer and shiranami shōchū (potato based alcohol) are ¥300, Smirnoff Ice, yakisoba and chijimi are ¥350 and edamame (green beans) are ¥200. It's south of Moral Monkey bicycle parking lot on the right-side corner.
A small European-style cafe by Dogo Onsen, Gallé sells sweet Japanese breakfasts, thick cut honey toast, yogurt, and fruit, either à la carte or as breakfast sets for ¥550 to ¥800. Their coffee may seem a little pricey at first, starting at ¥450, but the care and quality they put into their brew makes it well worth the extra yen per cup.
ジャンクフィールド
While you watch the game on one of the 3 large flat screens, you can order individual dishes and a drink or two, or one of their courses, which will run you ¥2800 to ¥4000. Heading south from Ichibanchō, this is down the one-way, side street on the right of Ōkaidō, and on the second floor of the building on your left after you cross Nibanchō street.
Billiards, darts, and typical Japanese bar fare. It's located on the left rear of Mitsukoshi department store.
六本木
Run by young married entrepreneurs, Roppongi is a chic but comfortable bar with music catered to guests. Table charge is ¥300, draft beer is ¥500 and cocktails begin at ¥650. New favorites include chicken liver pâté, beef stroganoff, and the owner's best, Chocobanana Milk which uses Godiva whiskey. It's just off Ichibanchō Street, between the Iyotetsu Travel Agency and the Iyotetsu Taxi Hub.
And "late" really means late at this popular, seedy watering hole, where expats and natives have been known to drink and dance until daybreak. Nabe, who speaks Japanese British English, is a kind and friendly host who will be happy to spin your favorite song. However, be aware that of the 4 beers listed on tap, only Lowenbrau is ever available on draft. Football games are screened here, albeit often with cheesy pop music drowning out the audio.
闇市ジョニー
If you’re in the mood for assorted cow and pig parts, this Kansai-style horumon semi-standing bar will be right up your alley. Try the tongue for ¥800, a diaphragm for ¥850 or, their specialty, raw liver for ¥580 (warm it up yourself for an extra ¥20). Wash it all down with Mr. Ishii’s signature Johnny shōchū, a highball (¥500) or draft beer (¥380).
エコ道後
Almost on top of Dōgo Onsen, with free Internet. Check-in is at 2PM, but you can leave your things there at any time.
ゲストハウスMATSUYAMA
Run by the super friendly Tamanoi-san of The Sophia Club NPO. It has a number of different rooms both Western and Japanese style some of which are self-catering. All have private bathrooms. Tamanoi-san speaks good English and knows 'everyone' in town. Internet, bike use included.
松山ユースホステル
Run by an eccentric but affable couple who will, among other things, provide courses on spoon-bending and scan your aura on demand. Expensive for what you get. A bit of a hike up a hill from the main part of town. Small, family kitchen not great for cooking, but it's near many restaurants.
ホテル泰平
It's just behind the castle, and offers an observatory, open-air sauna and onsen (10th floor) and two buffet restaurants. It also has Internet access.
松山シティホテル
Also in the heart of Matsuyama, this smaller hotel has a cheaper breakfast, Japanese and Western restaurants, and a fitness room.
ふなや
Top-end classic ryokan, with indoor and outdoor onsen, centered around an exquisite traditional Japanese garden.
アニメイト
There are a few anime shops around the downtown area, but this is the landmark. The others aren't far away on foot — walk a little further into the Gentengai Arcade and Melon Books and Iashinbang will be on your left and up the stairs, or achieve moe at Merry Maid Cafe, on the 5th floor of the appropriately named Waku Bldg.
ドッグピラー
What canine wouldn't want to try some green tea doggie treats?
濱正
Quality, locally produced bamboo products (and other Ehime crafts) on the second floor. Head east on Rt. 317 from Dōgo Hill.
Situated above the Iyotetsu train station, this Takashimaya has a rare distinction among Japanese department stores: a Ferris Wheel on the roof.
津田演奏堂
If Misora Hibari is your idol, get your enka fix here!
By train
Matsuyama is on the JR Yosan Line. From the mainland, take the San'yo Shinkansen to Okayama, and transfer to the Shiokaze Limited Express, which will get you to Matsuyama in about three hours (¥6630).
By bus
Highway buses connect Matsuyama with the rest of Shikoku, as well as with other major cities in Japan.
By ferry
Ferry services connect Matsuyama with various locations on Honshu and Kyushu.
By tram
Trams (streetcars) have a flat fare, ¥200 per trip (December 2023) or ¥100 for children. A one-day pass costs ¥400 (November 2014). There is no transfer discount.
By bus
Iyotetsu (伊予鉄) city buses connect all corners of Matsuyama (except for the island, Nakajima), from the ferry port in the west to Kume in the east, and from Hōjō in the north to Tobe in the south.
By train
By car
The Nissan Car Rental port at the intersection of Nishihoribata and Hanazoromachi, across from JAL Hotel.
By bicycle
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Matsuyama · International · MYJ
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