//
Born to a lower class branch of the Matsuyama samurai clan, these two brothers became military heroes of Japan. Yoshifuru, the eldest, is credited as the father of the Japanese cavalry, while Saneyuki excelled in naval tactics. Yoshifuru traveled to France to study cavalry techniques in 1887. After serving in the Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895) he established a cavalry division which debuted in the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905). After holding numerous posts of prestige, he was promoted to General in 1916 and finally retired to become a junior high school principal in Matsuyama. A childhood friend of Shiki, Saneyuki shared his friend's love of the written word, and the two studied literature at Tokyo University. However, at the behest of his brother, Saneyuki embarked on a military career. He was sent to America to study naval tactics, and had on-the-job training during the Spanish-American War (1898). After returning to Japan, he became the foremost strategist of the Russo-Japanese War, leading to a major victory at the battle of Tsushima.
© OpenStreetMap contributors
坂の上の雲ミュージアム
The name means "The Cloud Over an Upward Slope", and refers to the title of a book written by Shiba Ryōtarō (司馬 遼太郎) depicting the struggles Japanese people encountered as they rebuilt their country after the Meiji Revolution and the conflict with Russia. This impressive building, designed by well-known architect Ando Tadao (安藤忠雄), tells the stories of the aforementioned Akiyama Brothers and Masaoka Shiki. The ¥400 admission may be a little steep for non-Japanese readers as there is absolutely no English inside, but the Meiji Karakuri Theatre (moving 'stick' figures) is quite entertaining.
萬翠荘
This French-style building was constructed in 1922 for the former lord of Matsuyama Castle, Hisamatsu Sadakoto (久松定謨). After having lived and studied in France, Hisamatsu became enamored with the romantic architectural style, and hired Kigo Shichirō (木子七郎) to build his villa. This Taishō Era estate was the venue of many parties for the elite in its heyday, and the Emperor made it a point to visit whenever he was in the area. It is boused as an annex of the Museum of Art. The first floor's gallery changes throughout the year and is free, while the collection on the second floor showcases ink paintings by Shiki, Sōseki, and other Ehime residents.
松山城
Situated on the 130-m-tall Katsuyama Hill in the center of the city, this sprawling fortress is one of three remaining multi-wing, flat hilltop Japanese castles. It was constructed by the feudal lord Katō Yoshiaki (加藤嘉明) over the course of 25 years, completed in 1627. Four of its eight strategic gates are designated national cultural treasures, and with the wealth of historical artifacts within its majestic walls — swords and armor belonging to the three occupying families, calligraphy and official documents from the feudal era (English available) — Matsuyama-jō is well worth the hike. The castle is accessible by hiking a wooded trail, but the ropeway (¥500 roundtrip) can be boarded at the east entrance.
二ノ丸史跡庭園
Located southwest of the castle on the hillside, Ninomaru Shiseki Teien is another excellent point for viewing the city. The ruins of the Matsuyama Clan estate are preserved and celebrated in a romantic mixture of contemporary fountain designs and ancient garden aesthetics. Viewable from the castle's donjon, mystical Takigi Nō (nocturnal plays by bonfire) performances take place here throughout the year, and families enjoy picnics in its quiet serenity. Many cultural events (tea ceremonies, doll exhibitions, drum performances, etc.) are hosted here.
愛媛県美術館
Ehimeken Bijutsukan is a surprisingly discreet 10,300-m² facility in Shiroyama Park (at the base of the castle and surrounded by a moat) and houses a permanent collection from Ehime natives such as Takubo Kyōji (mixed media sculptor) and Oki Kangaku (ink painter) as well as temporary exhibits from all over the globe. There is a rental gallery where Ehime residents can display their pieces, along with free workshops, a library, and a café.
子規堂
The main rooms of the house where Shiki spent the first 17 years of his life were replicated and set up in Shōjuji near the center of the city. The desk and artifacts from his childhood are displayed as he would have had them. The facility is complete with literary and artistic works discovered after his death, pictures, and even some monuments dedicated to other renowned haiku poets.