Rome, Italy
Photo: User: (WT-shared) Roundtheworld at wts wikivoyage, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
The South of Rome includes the historic Appian Way and nearby catacombs, as well as important tourist attractions in EUR, and San Paolo.
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Porta San Sebastiano is a gate in the amazingly well-preserved Aurelian Walls. Inside and upstairs is a museum dedicated to the construction of the walls and their recent restoration. You can take a walk along the top of the walls. At the museum you can also arrange to visit the Tomb of the Scipios (Sepolcro degli Scipiani) and a nearby Roman Columbarium (tomb for cremated remains), the entrance for which is 200 m back towards Rome along the Via Di Porta San Sebastiano. No wheelchair access.
This is not the real name of the church on the corner by the main entrance to San Callisto but it is universally known by this name. By legend it is located on the spot where Saint Peter had a vision of the risen Christ while fleeing persecution in Rome. According to the tradition, Peter asked Jesus, Domine, quo vadis? “Lord, where are you going?” The current church is from 1637. Inside is a copy of a stone said to contain the imprints of the feet of Jesus; the original is maintained in San Sebastiano, further along the Appian Way
A 1st-century tomb surrounded by two farmhouses from the Middle Ages, one of which used to be a cheese store. Rather hidden behind a high wall, the tomb is rarely open to the public. You might be lucky on a Sunday: on the third Sunday of every month there is a guided tour at 11:00.
A strange building, constructed by Reginald Pole, an English cardinal and later Archbishop of Canterbury, allegedly on the spot where he was able to escape from assassins sent by the English King Henry VIII.
Although started in the 2nd century, San Callisto has had many more recent burials, including 16 popes. The burial arcades are almost 20 km long.
The Catacombs of Domitilla are considered to be the best preserved of all Roman catacombs. They are the only ones still to contain bones. Domitilla also has a subterranean basilica, much of which was reconstructed in 1870.
The first basilica was constructed in the 4th century and dedicated to San Sebastian, a martyr of the 3rd century. Sebastian's remains were transferred to St. Peter's in 826, prior to a Saracen assault when the church was destroyed. The current church was largely constructed in the 17th-century. Until the Great Jubilee in 2000 this was one of the Seven Pilgrim Churches of Rome, i.e. the churches that all Roman Catholic pilgrims were expected to visit. However, at that time it was replaced by the Sanctuary of Divino Amore (see below). Entrance to the catacombs, which are smaller than the others in the area, is to the right of the church entrance. The area where you buy tickets and wait for tours has a good display of sarcophagi from the catacombs. You can rent a bicycle at the catacombs for further exploration of the Appian Way.
This was the site of the slaughter in 1944 of 335 Italians, including many Jews from the Ghetto, in retaliation for a Partisan attack on German troops in Rome. The caves where the massacre took place are now a National Monument and Memorial Cemetery and can be visited daily.
These are underneath a property known as Vigna Randanini. The catacombs are much smaller than the Christian catacombs and much less easy to visit. Groups are limited to twelve people at any one time and you need to take your own lighting!
Caffarella Park covers an area of 339 ha and is part of the larger Appia Antica park. It contains both a working farm and numerous Roman ruins, some quite well preserved and is a great place for a stroll or cycle away from Rome’s traffic.
This well-preserved Roman circus was built at the beginning of the fourth century. It was part of an imperial villa built by Maxentius and the complex also contains the Mausoleum of his son, Romolo.
The mausoleum of Cecilia Metella, who died in 69 BC, is the best preserved monument on the Appian Way and dominates the surroundings. In the Middle Ages it was transformed into a fortress and battlements were added. At that time there was considerable competition for ownership because of its strategic location.
This archaeological site displays the thermal baths of the villa of the wealthy Herod Atticus. Also in the complex is a restored villa, until 2002 a private residence, that has an exterior completely covered with pieces from Roman ruins, including pipes used in the baths. There are some very helpful staff to show you around, although they only speak Italian. An interesting photographic exhibition in the house traces the development of the Appian Way over the last century. Almost opposite the entrance to the baths is a ruined tower known as the Torre di Capo di Bove.
This impressive villa covers 23 hectares. It can be accessed from the Via Appia Nuova (Bus 118) or through Via Appia Antica 251. Parts can be seen from the Appian Way at around the 5th mile just after No 251. The villa was built by Maximus and Condinus Quintilii. The emperor Commudus liked it so much that he put the brothers to death in 182 AD and took it for himself. A museum has friezes and sculptures from the villa. The nypheum, the tepidarium and the baths may also be visited. At Appia Antica 251 is Santa Maria Nova, a farmhouse that has undergone many reincarnations since being built on top of a Roman cistern that was probably used by Villa dei Quintilii.
Casal Rotondo is the biggest mausoleum on the Appian Way, at about the sixth mile. It now incorporates a small private villa, originally a farmhouse. It is not known for whom it was built. The wall of fragments next to it, constructed by Luigi Canina, has ruins referring to the Cotta family but this family is now believed to not be associated with the Casal Rotondo.
This pleasant park contains very well-preserved ruins of two aqueducts and some of the original surface of the Roman Via Latina. Gets crowded on Sundays but almost empty the rest of the week during term time. Good place for joggers.
A truly quiet oasis close to the hustle and bustle of EUR. There are three churches in this complex and the doors are open all day, unlike city churches. The monks produce a range of products such as liqueurs, chocolate and honey, as well as a cure for the illnesses Romans suffer when the Scirocco wind blows in from the Sahara. These are on sale at a shop at the Abbey.
An ethnographic collection of around 60,000 pieces from European indigenous cultures. Documents evolution from the Palaeolithic age to the Iron Age.
Perhaps most famous for a large model of imperial Rome, but also has a large display of various aspects of ancient Rome, using plaster casts, models and reconstructions of works found in museums throughout the world.
Regular shows plus an excellent astronomical museum.
Colosseo Quadrato, also known as Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana
Constructed around the 1940s as the centrepiece of the EUR, but unused for a long time. It was restored before 2015 when the luxury fashion label Fendi moved in.
Also known as St Paul Outside the Walls. This is on the outskirts of Rome in an otherwise drab modern neighborhood. The enormous basilica is a faithful reconstruction, finished in 1854, of the ancient basilica which burned down in 1823. Parts of the original interior were rescued from the fire and have been extensively restored. Visiting in the afternoon may avoid the tourist coaches. Don't miss the medieval cloister, which survived the fire.
This church can be an interesting deviation if you are passing through its neighbourhood. It is believed to be the grave of the Saints Ciro and Giovanni, killed during the time of the Emperor Diocletian. The original name was Abba Cyrus and through Appaciro and then Appacero it finally became Pacera, very close to today's Passera. The building is on top of a 3rd century building still visible in the lower floor and in the underground. The main part of the building dates back to the 9th century as do the frescoes on the higher floor. Some of the frescoes have been restored. Downstairs there is a small quadrangular room and the underground, where the remains of the two Saints are supposed to be. There are still visible 3rd century traces of Roman frescoes; in front of the stair you can enjoy a small bird, the Justice, and an athlete while in the vault some eight apex stars. Bus 128,780,781,775 (first stop in Via della Magliana).
This delightful museum provides an interesting juxtaposition between the buildings and equipment of Rome's first electricity generating plant and the exhibits, which are mainly from excavations of Roman sites. A combined ticket with the museums on the Capitoline Hill provides big reductions.
This is an important place of pilgrimage for Catholics because of the supposedly miraculous powers of an image of the Virgin Mary. The first miracle was in 1740 when a traveller being attacked by a pack of dogs called out to the Virgin’s image for rescue and the dogs calmed down. The image was moved to Rome in the Second World War and is credited with saving the city from destruction, as a result of which Romans vowed to construct this new sanctuary.
Chiesa di Dio Padre Misericordioso
A modern church designed by the world-famous architect Richard Meier. Completed in 2003 and built as a project to socially revive the surrounding Tor Tre Teste area.
Rent a bike and explore the many remains of the Appian Way park area.
This pizzeria has a good Roman style pizza (the thin one) and also a good choice of fried vegetables and appetizers. Price is low to mid-range, food quality and service are medium.
One of the best ice cream makers in Rome. From humble beginnings here, San Crispino has expanded and you can now buy special packs at Fiumicino airport to take home with you. Pure ingredients; good selection of fruit sorbets (flavours according to the season) and ice creams.
Creative French and vegetarian cuisine with a very kind staff and a homey environment. Better to reserve.
Worth stopping by if you're close to the EUR and it's cheap. They also own the deli right next to it, where you can also get miniature pizzas and breads.
Good Roman fare. One of the owners can speak English so that's helpful. Many interesting varieties of pasta along with traditional main courses such as ox tail. The owner has been known to take the time to introduce each of the dishes on the menu to the guests.
Eco- & bike-friendly guesthouse. Twin, double, triple, quadruple and quintuple room with WiFi, air conditioning, safe, ensuite or private external bathroom, and self catering kitchen use. Cheap single rooms with shared bathroom. 24/7 self service breakfast included. Guarded parking. Bike rent.
Caravel Hotel
Cheap hotel: a bit off the beaten track but there are good bus connections.
Convenient for the Appian Way park and if you want to go to the races at Capannelle horse track. Short walk from Parco degli Aquedotti and Villa dei Quintili. Easily reached if you are coming from the south by car. Well-rated hotel but you will have to rely on an infrequent shuttle or public transport if you want to use it as a base for exploring downtown Rome.
This 4-star hotel has been refurbished to offer large and well decorated bedrooms.
Via Appia Nuova, 160, Marino. 4-star hotel just south of Ciampino Airport with 76 bedrooms of different size, private bathroom, spa centre, business services, restaurant, free shuttle to Ciampino airport and breakfast buffet. Double: €53 Triple: €59.
Very quiet and stylish in midst of a park. You can reach it from the subway by a 5-min walk. The hotel has a small bar, excellent breakfast and a restaurant. In the vicinity of the hotel you can find an excellent restaurant La Taverna de Porto if you want to go out eating. There is also a tennis court, a gymnasium and even an Aikido Dojo.
A "boutique" hotel that really merits the name. You'll have to stay in one of the eight themed suites to get the full effect but the whole hotel is covered with works of art of a surrealist nature, with considerable homage paid to Rene Magritte.
By metro
Metro line B goes to EUR, with EUR Fermi being the most central station. The line also passes the Basilica of San Paolo fuori le mura, with the station being named after the basilica.
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