Mumbai, India
Photo: Sawarijoshi, CC BY 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
This article covers localities like Kalbadevi, Pydhonie, Cumballa Hill, Tardeo, Grant Road, Mahalaxmi, Sandhurst Road, Byculla and Chinchpokli. On the north, it borders North Central Mumbai.
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Byculla is also known for Mumbai's first Y-shaped bridge built across Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Road which then splits further to go to Byculla East and West before the Clare Road intersection, thereby forming a Y shape when seen from the air. This was one of the oldest flyovers built in Mumbai.
Victoria & Albert Museum
Established in 1855 as a treasure house of the decorative and industrial arts. This museum houses a large number of archaeological finds, maps and historical photographs of Mumbai, clay models, silver and copperware and costumes. Its significant collections include a 17th-century manuscript of Hatim Tai. Outside the museum is the installation of the monolithic basalt elephant sculpture recovered from the sea, which originated from Elephanta. Collections in six galleries: Industrial Arts Gallery, 19th-Century Paintings, Origins of Mumbai Gallery, Founders' Gallery, Kamalnayan Bajaj Special Exhibitions Gallery, Kamalnayan Bajaj Mumbai Gallery.
Church of Our Lady of Glory; Portuguese: Nossa Senhora de Gloria
This is one of the oldest Roman Catholic churches in Mumbai built by the Portuguese Franciscans in 1632. The present structure dates back to 1913. The grey stone steeple of the church rises to a height of 160 feet. It is the tallest church steeple in Mumbai. The church follows the Gothic style of architecture with pointed arches. The church is 205 feet long and 65 feet broad and the interiors contain 5 altars.
The two Parsi colonies where most of the Parsis of Byculla live.
Shield of David
Built in 1861 this is the first Bagdadi Jew Synagogue in Mumbai. The Bagdadi Jews started arriving in Mumbai (then Bomay ) in the early decades of the 19th century. During that time they are welcomed by the Bene Israel (Children of Israel) community to pray in their synagogue. By the middle of the 19th century the Bagdadi Jew community was large enough to have their own congregations along with their own synagogue. The Magen David Synagogue was completed in 1861 and was funded by David Sassoon. Unlike the Mumbai's previous synagogues, which were built in the local or a Middle Eastern style, Magen David was built in a European style and was complete with a clock tower, something unusual for a synagogue. The synagogue was extended in 1910 with the addition of matching side bays on both sides. The synagogue was built in neo-classical style with freely conceived local elements. Four slender columns support the flat-roofed porch. The porch contains the ten commandments written in Hebrew and the Magen David Synagogue written in English is flanked on either side by two stars of David. The interior of the synagogue is a double-height sanctuary with women’s gallery wrapping around three sides of the upper floor. The four corners of the brass fabricated central platform is fitted with brass light sheds. In the 2010s the exterior and interior of the Magen David Synagogue have been painted blue and white. The white florescent white light in the blue - white backdrop creates a feast for the eyes. The large complex of the Magen David Synagogue also houses two schools run by Jewish trust (students of other religion are also welcome) and the warden house.
Shield of the Pious
The Magen Hasidim Synagogue is the largest Bene Israel (Children of Israel) synagogue in Mumbai, it remains functional with a small congregation. The Bene Israel congregation of Mumbai (then Bombay) started in 1904. Initially they operated from makeshift facilities for their prayer and community service. Later a member of the community Benjamin Samson Dandoolkar established a prayer hall, which came to be known as Dandoolkar’s Prayer Hall. Later in the early 1930s the community was in need for a larger prayer hall and this led to the construction of the present building. It was consecrated on 29 March 1931 and was named the Magen Hasidim Synagogue (Shield of Pious). The two-storey structure has a vaulted ceiling, a recessed entry porch with a low set of steps. The centre has a Hebrew inscription of the ten commandments. The interiors are more lively with a decorative wooden central platform. The women's gallery is on the first floor balcony. Decorative chandeliers lit up the interior with the large windows allowing the natural light to filter in.
वीरमाता जिजाबाई भोसले उद्यान Vīrmātā Jijābāī Bhosale Udyān
The zoo was established during British times and named "Victoria Gardens". After India's independence, the zoo is renamed after Shivaji's mother Jijabai, and is popularly known as Rani Baug (queen's garden). The place is not really worth visiting as it has been called more of a prison for animals than a zoo in the modern sense.
One of the most expensive homes in India, and one of the largest in the world, where billionaire Mukesh Ambani lives with his family. The 27-storey building is designed to withstand a magnitude-eight earthquake, and its design incorporates the lotus plant and the sun. The amenities inside the building include a 168-car garage, ballroom, 9 high-speed lifts, a 50-seat theatre, terrace gardens, swimming pool, spa, health centre, temple, and a "snow room", which produces snowflakes from its walls.
Gandhi Memorial
The house where Mahatma Gandhi often stayed when he visited the city between 1917-1934. The two-storeyed structure standing on Laburnum Road is the city's pride. Gandhi's Museum & Library: once you enter the place, there is a library with a statue of the Mahatma where people offer their tributes. Then a staircase dotted with Gandhi's pictures depicting his life leads visitors to the first floor which has a big photo gallery where photographs of his childhood till his assassination are displayed along with press clippings. The room that Gandhi used during his stay here is on the second floor - there is a glass partition and you can see through two of his spinning wheels, a book and floor bed still preserved. Right opposite the room, there is a hall where photographs and paintings of his life are on display. And finally, you reach the terrace where he was arrested on 4 January 1932.
The museum houses artefacts, kiosks and digital sources of the history of Indian cinema.
Marathi: मुंबा देवी मंदिर Mumbā Devī Mandir, Gujarati: મુંબાદેવી મંદિર Mumbādevī Mandir
The temple dedicated to the city's patron goddess Mumbadevi, the local incarnation of the Devi (Mother Goddess). The city itself is named after the goddess. The first shrine dedicated to Mumbadevi is believed to have been built by a Koli fisherman in the 1st century BCE, on the site now occupied by CSMT. The temple is about six centuries old, believed to be the handiwork of Mumbaraka, a sadistic giant who frequently plundered the city at the time. Newly-married Hindu couples visit the shrine soon after marriage, seeking blessings from the goddess for a happy married life.
Jumma Masjid
It was constructed in 1802 on the tank. In the eighteenth century, this tank was situated in the midst of gardens and open land and belonged to a Konkani Muslim merchant trading in Goa, and Calicut, who, about 1778, agreed to the erection of a mosque on the spot, provided the tank was preserved intact. A one-story building was therefore erected over the tank and formed the original nucleus of the present Jama Mosque. The Jama Mosque is a quadrangular pile of brick and stone, encircled by a ring of terrace roofed and double-storied buildings, the ground floors of which are let out as shops. The chief or eastern gate of the mosque leads directly across an open courtyard to the ancient tank, which is now furnished with masonry steps and embankments, built in 1893, and contains about three meters of stagnant water, filled with gold and silver fish. From the depth of the tank rise sixteen black stone arches, constructed in 1874, which support the whole fabric of the mosque, the upper story being upheld by five rows of wooden pillars, each of which contains a receptacle for sacred books. The arches in the tank were built in 1874.
The famous open-air laundry place in Mumbai. Built in 1890, the washers in Dhobi Ghat work in the open to clean clothes and linens from Mumbai's hotels and hospitals. There are rows of open-air concrete wash pens, each fitted with its own flogging stone. The best time to visit Dhobi Ghat is early morning and early afternoon. While the dhobis are in action in the morning to take care of the washing load, the early afternoons are an ideal time to see the clothes dry.
Marathi: हाजी आली दर्गा Hājī Alī Dargā, Urdu: حاجی علی درگاہ Hājī Alī Dargāh
The Haji Ali Dargah was constructed in 1431 in memory of a wealthy Muslim merchant, Sayyed Peer Haji Ali Shah Bukhari, who gave up all his worldly possessions before making a pilgrimage to Mecca. The Dargah Sharif is built on a tiny islet 500 m from the coast, in the middle of Worli Bay, in the vicinity of Worli. The edifice is a brilliant specimen of the Indo-Islamic style of architecture. The islet is linked to the city precinct of Mahalaxmi by a narrow causeway, which is nearly 1 km long. The accessibility to the dargah is very much dependent on the tides. As the causeway is not bound by railings, when the causeway gets submerged during high tide it becomes inaccessible. Therefore, the dargah is accessible only during low tide. This walk on the causeway, with the sea on both sides, is one of the highlights of a trip to the shrine. The whitewashed structure occupies an area of a marble courtyard containing the central shrine. The tomb within the mosque is covered by a brocaded red and green chaddar (tomb cover sheet). It is supported by an exquisite silver frame, supported by marble pillars. The main hall has marble pillars embellished with artistic mirror work: blue, green, and yellow chips of glass arranged in kaleidoscopic patterns interspersed with Arabic patterns which spell the ninety-nine names of Allah. As per the Muslim traditions separate praying rooms for ladies and gents are provided here to pay their respects. During the high tide, the dargah seems completely isolated with no access. It looks more like a little island.
महालक्ष्मी मंदिर Mahālakṣmī Mandir
The temple dedidated to Mahalakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity is one of the most popular shrines of Mumbai. The temple contains images of the goddesses Mahalakshmi, Mahakali and Mahasaraswati. All three images are adorned with nose rings, gold bangles and pearl necklaces. The image of Mahalakshmi is shown riding a tiger and a demon (Mahishasur) in tandem. The compound of this temple contains several stalls that sell flower garlands and other paraphernalia used by devotees for worship and as offering.
A science museum, also contains the "Discovery of India", a show on India's History named for Jawaharlal Nehru's book. It is spread over a relatively large area and surrounded by greenery. Check the website for prices and timings of different shows. This is India's largest interactive science centre.
Glory of Israel
The third Bene Israel (Children of Israel) synagogue of Mumbai. The original building dates back to 1896 and it was shifted to the larger present location in 1924, due to the efforts of community member Aaron Benjamin Kandlekar. In Kandlekar's honor for his generosity, the synagogue also became known as Kandlekaranchi Masjid or Kandlekar's Synagogue. The present building has undergone several renovation over years with the latest one coming in 2000. The ladies gallery lies on the northern side of the synagogue. Hanging brass and glass lanterns, ceiling fans, decorative metal window grilles and wall scones are part of the grand interior. The central pavilion is surrounded by wood and brass balustrade, with brass lamp shades on four corners. A special fixture seen in synagogues in the ner tamid, or light that always burns to indicate the presence of God. Fabricated from brass, it hangs in front of the hekhal.
Bhaucha Dhakka
It used to be a harbour and the big and medium-sized boats were leaving for Goa and South Konkan. Now, small boats, dinghies, barges and ferries are operated and plying to Uran (in Navi Mumbai) and nearby areas. This is especially known for its wholesale fish market. It's also an immersion point during Ganesh Chaturthi.
Mazagaon Gardens
A park atop Bhandarwada Hill and offers a panoramic view of the Mumbai Harbour and the southern business district of the city. Beneath the gardens is a water reservoir, constructed between 1880–1884. The park is frequented by neighbourhood residents. It is mostly patronised by couples, joggers, senior citizens, and students who find peaceful corners to study. Cycas, ixora, musanda, bougainvillea, and hibiscus are some of the plants found in the garden.
Mumbai once had a flourishing Chinatown, today the Kuan Kung Temple in Mazagaon is the only remaining trace of the once vibrant Chinese community of Mumbai. After the 1962 Sino-Indian War, most Chinese were viewed as traitors, and left town. The temple is housed in a two-storey building, with bright red entry doors. Wooden stairs lead to the first floor housing a shrine of Kwan Tai Kwon, the Chinese god of war. There is a painting above the altar of the Chinese gods of justice, protection, and courage. It is thronged by devotes and the local Chinese population during the Chinese New Year and Moon festival.
Judges Quarters
Here in Tadwadi a B.I.T. Chawl's big Colony is also situated. This Tadwadi area is also famous for its dahi-handis. From this area, only the world’s most famous second manual tower forming Mandals are operating in Mumbai.
श्री स्वामीनारायण मंदिर Śrī Svāmīnārāyaṇ Mandir
It has a tri-spire structure and the idols installed are that of Laxminarayan Dev with Ghanshyam Maharaj, and Radha Krishna Dev with Hari Krishna Maharaj. In this temple, Radha Krishna is worshipped in the form of Radha Golokvihari as they are the residents of Goloka. It is a Shikharband Mandir and comes under the Laxminarayan Dev Gadi (Vadtal).
Arabic: روضة طاهرة Rawḍat Ṭāḥira
This is a white-marble Fatemi shrine. The marble used in the mausoleum was quarried from the Chosira and Ulodi quarries of the famed Makrana quarries in Rajasthan, from where marble for Taj Mahal was quarried. - The mausoleum rests on 92 piles. The number 92 is significant in that it represents the Arabic isopsephical value of the name of Muhammad. The complete structure weighs 5000 tons. The mausoleum rises to a height of 33m, which is the Arabic isopsephical value of the word Ḥaqq. The dome is 16m high as its crowning feature. The very first brick laid down for the construction of the dome was done by Mufaddal Saifuddin in the presence of his father. A 3.7m high gold finial stands sentinel over the dome. There are four smaller domes, one at each corner of the central dome, each with a gold finial to match its larger prototype, and perfect the setting against the azure sky. The dome and cornice are inspirations from the Juyushi Mosque, Cairo. The four walls of the mausoleum have a 1.2-m- and 15-cm-thick masonry wall, with 7.6-cm cladding on both sides, making its final thickness of 1.5 m, which reflects the members of Ahl al-Bayt. The outer walls are decorated with the names of the Ahl al-Bayt and the Fatimid Imams as well as the Duʿāt Mutlaqīn in the Kufic script. The four entrance doors to the shrine have been specially designed to match the entrance gate of Aqmar Mosque in Cairo built by Imam-Caliph Manṣūr al-Āmir bi'Aḥkāmi l-Lāhi. The entrances are adorned with four silver doors of Fatimid style and lead to the sanctum sanctorum of the tomb. There are five arches above each of these four doors, called Raudat Tahera; Bab-e Hakimi, so named after his ancestor, Abdul Qadir Hakimuddin, whose mausoleum is in Burhanpur, Madhya Pradesh; Bab-e Zaini, so named after the 45th Da'i al-Mutlaq, Tayyab Zainuddin, his great-grandfather, whose tomb is in Surat. The entrance facing north is called Bab-e Fakhri, so named after his ancestor, Fakhruddin Shaheed, whose mausoleum is in Galiyakot, Rajasthan.
The mausoleum of Aga Khan I. Its architecture is said to have been inspired by the Taj Mahal.
Built in an Iranian style in 1860 by a prominent Iranian businessman who had moved to Mumbai.
Shaar Harahamin Synagogue
The oldest synagogue in Mumbai. It dates back to 1796 and is a Bene Israel (Children of Israel) Synagogue. For the first few decades, the Bene Israel Jews carried out their prayers in private places and burrowed halls but with a growing number of members they need a proper synagogue. A proper synagogue, which not only will serve as a physical place for prayer but also serve as a spiritual, educational, and social centre for the Jews of Mumbai. The synagogue was constructed by the sole efforts of Jewish military officer Samuel Ezekiel Diveker of the Bombay Army. It came to be known as the Samaji Hasiji, or Samuel’s Synagogue. As members grew the synagogue was short of space and by the mid-19th century, they need a bigger synagogue. The old building was demolished and a was replaced with a larger building and it was consecrated as a new synagogue on 24 March 1860. During the centenary celebration of the Synagogue, it was renamed the Shaar Harahamin Synagogue. The two-storey synagogue is located in a very congested area of south Mumbai and two marble plaques on the walls and a couple of stars of David on the walls and gate are the only signs of a synagogue. The interiors have grey marble floors and large windows. The plans are the same as other synagogues with a central pavilion and first-floor ladies' balcony.
Gateway of Desire Synagogue
Constructed in 1843, the Shaare Rason Synagogue, literally meaning the "Gateway of Desire Synagogue" is the second oldest synagogue of Mumbai and belongs to the Bene Israel Jews. It is near the older Shaar Harahamin and with the construction of the new synagogue Shaar Harahamin Synagogue came to be known as the Old Synagogue and Shaare Rason the New Synagogue. The New Synagogue was constructed by voluntary contribution raised by a group formerly affiliated with the Old Synagogue who have become dissatisfied with its management. This group set out to establish their own, independent congregation. The Sharee Rason Synagogue is in a congested area and is surrounded by high walls. The main gateway is detailed with a pediment with an inscription and a pair of wooden doors opening into the synagogue compound. The building's ornamentation includes simple modelling, unadorned pilasters, and a recessed panelled roof parapet crowned by a swooping feature that reflects the one atop the gate pediment. The projection includes a Hebrew verse, the name of the synagogue in Hebrew and a Star of David. The sloping roofs are framed with flat ceramic tiles. As the synagogue has only one floor the ladies gallery lies on the east. The wooden central pavilion is fitted with brass ornamentation corners fitted with a miniature menorah.
Royal Western India Turf Club
An oval-shaped racecourse in Mumbai. The horse racing season starts in mid-November and ends in the last week of April. On the first Sunday in February, the Indian Derby is conducted annually and is attended by many of the city's glitterati. The Grandstand off the course is a designated heritage structure. The racecourse is the only helipad open for civilian use in Mumbai.
This is next door to the Nehru Science Centre and has some interesting shows. Over the years, it has grown into a centre for the scientific study of astronomy and space science. The planetarium is equipped with a Digistar 3 planetarium projector which was installed in 2003.
An indoor sports arena with facilities for lawn tennis, badminton, billiards, table tennis, carrom, wrestling and futsal. Food options are limited though.
A typical Iranian restaurant that has been in business for just under a century.
Continental and Indian food restaurant. It's expensive, but worth it for the ambiance, service, and food.
Mediterranean food (including kebabs, meats, seafood, and pizzas) at spectacular prices (expect to pay ₹1000-₹2000 a head with drinks). Beautiful, romantic ambiance, and if you sit inside you can see the horses stabled in the race course. Tote on the Turf: Uber-chic and trendy place, go just to check out the modern decor. Excellent Mediterranean food. Dishes between ₹500-₹1500, and an excellent bar too. Reservations must.
A Bengali place which naturally means that it has an extensive seafood menu. It also has a good vegetarian selection.
DJ Aqeel's nightclub.
Beautiful, chic restaurant and bar by the Indigo people. Cocktails are ₹300 up. Alcoholic Sunday brunch.
The National Sodality Centre
A solar-powered Jesuit-run men's hostel that has served as headquarters for various NGOs.
The location is somewhat inconvenient, but has a good restaurant called Oh! Calcutta.
for fruits and vegetables.
Home to Premsons and Amarsons department stores.
Thief Market
A colloquial term used to refer to a place selling stolen items. It consists of a number of interconnecting by-lanes with street vendors hawking a wide variety of items from antiques to shoes to car accessories etc. The place can be quite a surprise for the number and type of items on sale. A great place to spot bargains, and bargaining is a must. Shop with a keen eye: look out for fakes or second-hand items that are shoddily repaired and can be passed out for a quick buck. Don’t carry too many items like money, jewellery and watches on you when visit the market. Keep it to the bare essentials and keep an eye on your belongings. There is a very good chance that you may get robbed since locals are apt at spotting first-time shoppers.
Famous for medical and scientific instruments and lab chemicals.
It's a popular shopping destination for locals and shops usually deal in imported goods and electronics.
for silk and cloth
A wholesale timber market is frequently visited by many from the city.
The Byculla Vegetable Market is the largest vegetable market in Mumbai even larger than Crawford Market. South side vegetable market (wholesale), north side fish & meat market.
झवेरी बाजार Jhaverī Bājār
Best known jewellery market, all in one place.
One of the nicest, best maintained malls in the city. For upscale there's Mango, Nine West, Aldo, Promod, Guess, La Senza (all sold at slightly inflated prices in India). There's also your regular Nike, Reebok, Levi's, along with some cheaper local brands. Be sure to check out the Rolls Royce dealership next door.
Sobo Central, Brand Factory
At the site of Crossroads, what used to be Mumbai's first mall. Nothing to write home about. Chinese Food: China Gate Restaurant (Heavily Indianized, spicy Chinese food. ₹300 per person).
By local train
By metro or nomorail
The Aqua Line between SoBo and the city's suburbs runs across South Central Mumbai.
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