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Town in Manitoba, Canada
Photo: Ian Stewart, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Churchill is a community North of 53 in Manitoba, best known as the polar bear capital of the world, and only slightly less known as the beluga capital of the world. For a multi-purpose capital, though, it's very small, with a permanent population of only 870 people (2021), who live on the shore of Hudson Bay, the bank of the Churchill River, and just past the treeline of the boreal forest.
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An old cannon battery was set up in 1747 to protect the Hudson Bay Company's business on the Churchill River, rather stupidly, as the cannons there could be captured by an enemy and used to fire upon Prince of Wales Fort across the river. Nonetheless, it is a great scenic spot to look out on the bay and river and fort, with a genuine tundra ecosystem. The battery has been reconstructed with original stones found on location, with a single cannon left as a reminder of the site's history. Keep an eye out in bear season, as polar bears frequent the area when heading out onto the sea ice. It's not safe to walk from town, because of the bears, so take a taxi, get someone to give you a ride, or rent a car.
Formerly known as the Eskimo Museum, it has one of Canada's oldest collections of Inuit artifacts despite its small size (opened in 1944 by Catholic missionaries and still operated by the Diocese of Churchill-Baie d'Hudson), this museum has well detailed exhibits of all sorts of weird and interesting Inuit archaeological finds and sculptures. You will want well over an hour for the exhibits, and then some for the gift shop.
It's only really worthwhile to come down this way if you rent a car, but it is a nice spot for a picnic in the summer. The observation tower looks out over Goose Creek towards the Churchill River, and is a good spot for birdwatching (it's also popular with aurora watchers).
Inukshuk roughly translates to "representing a person" in Inuktitut, and is a predominant symbol of the Canadian North, in the form of a humanlike stone-cairn. While there are a few inukshuit in the area, this one is by far the most popular for its striking location on the shore of Hudson Bay, and is especially popular for aurora photography.
Filled with Coca-Cola and a snowmobile, this cargo plane crashed in 1979 (the crew survived), and has now become a tourist attraction. The odd name came from the rotund shape of the plane and the curious rumour that it did once transport a cargo of pigs. You will need a car to get you here. You're not really supposed to, but you can even go inside!
Another wreck, this time a big 260-ft steamship that ran aground in this tidal flat in 1960 with 3,000 tons of ore in its hold (the crew all survived this wreck too). Locals took advantage of the ore bounty, stripping the ship down! It is possible to hike out to the wreck in the summer in low tide, but seek local advice first to make sure you will be safe. You get a great view from the helicopter.
Built by the Hudson's Bay Company in 1717, Prince of Wales Fort is the most northerly stone fort in Canadian history, and is in good shape structurally, following a couple of restoration efforts in the 20th century. The restoration continues today, and if you time your visit right, you can watch stonemasons working on the structure using traditional 18th century methods. It was a complete flop of a fort, though, falling to the French in 1782 without so much as a defensive shot being fired, its small non-military force surrendering immediately to the vastly superior French force.
This huge national park is difficult to visit, owing to its remoteness, and the fact that it houses a polar bear colony! (Wapusk means white bear in Cree.) Other animals include the usual suspects in this area: foxes white and red, arctic hare, snowy owls, and a few grizzlies that have been moving into the southern reaches as the temperature warms. The visitor center is in Churchill's train station. There are only three reasonable ways to get out here: a helicopter tour through Hudson Bay Helicopters, or a tour through Frontiers North or Wat'chee Expeditions. See our Wapusk National Park page for details.
Possibly the most important historic site in Northern Canada is this extraordinarily remote, decommissioned factory/office building, which was the headquarters of the Hudson's Bay Company. As its central base of operations, this white building was for over 100 years essentially the capital of Rupert's Land, which comprised the majority of present-day Canada! The initial settlement established in 1670 was at the mouth of the Nelson River just west, and moved to the present and extant site in 1684. Up until 1957 York Factory remained a northern trading post. Getting out there is not a simple affair, but can be done from Churchill as a day trip through Hudson Bay Helicopters (see below), for a rather steep price!
One of two options for tundra vehicles. The reservations people are disorganized and do not take reservations by phone on weekends. Take down names for a bit of extra security when booking. The tour itself, though, is every bit as good as the other company's.
Run by the Lazy Bear Lodge, this is the smallest operator with just one vehicle, and it usually is filled through their own package tour. It's worth giving them a call, though, if you are having trouble reserving the dates you want with the bigger companies.
Frontiers North Adventures
The original Tundra Buggy operator, which holds the most permits to operate in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area. They also operate the Tundra Buggy Lodge (see below).
Run by the owner of Blue Sky B&B (see below), Gerald Azure. Discounts are available for B&B guests. The tour runs year-round, with 2 -mile runs during bear season and 5-mile runs otherwise. In the frozen months of Jan–March, you can also do a half day or even full 30-mile day tour, at $525 for two B&B guests.
Run by Dave Daley, the owner of Wapusk General Store (see below), this tour won the 2005 Manitoba Aboriginal Tourism Award. Dave is an active racer (and kind of an intense guy), still participating in the Hudson Bay Quest yearly, and also runs an outreach program to aboriginal kids interested in learning more about the heritage of dog sledding. The tour covers one mile.
Sea North is a dedicated tours-on-the-water company, with a bunch of different options for summer visitors. A really cool tour is the June Flow Ice Tour (which depends on sea ice conditions), which will take you on a two-hour animal spotting tour among the breaking ice, $105. The more standard tour, of course, is the July–August Beluga and Fort Tour, 2.5-3 hours in a Zodiac, $105 adults/$52.50 kids under 13. Kayak and standup paddleboard tours also run July–August at $160/person and $170/person respectively for three hours.
Hudson Bay Heli
Hudson Bay Helicopters is the only helicopter operator in town. Their one-hour Animal Tour is by far their most popular option, and they often guarantee to see wildlife. Caribou and polar bears are the most exciting, since they are big enough to see easily! The Animal tour takes you out to Cape Churchill and Wapusk National Park, and you will see polar bears that no one else gets to see—it's a unique ecosystem to see from a helicopter, and it is worth the money. The tour will also take you over the town, by Miss Piggy and the shipwreck, and Prince of Wales Fort. Photography isn't fabulous from the helicopter, but really, you will want to spend your time looking out the window anyway. Minimum three people. In the summer months they also will offer a day-long charter down to York Factory (see above). Specialty tours require advance notice, but you can just walk up to the door and get on an Animal Tour. Advance payment is never required, as weather can spoil a trip.
Nature 1st Tours
Hiking is a great way to get out of town, experience the different ecosystems, and spot wildlife (especially birds). Tour guides are experts, and will help you find Arctic hare, Arctic and red foxes, caribou, some 200 bird species, and even the occasional polar bear! They also do a cool walking tour of the tidal flats out to MV Ithaca.
There is one guy in town, Mike Macri, who will do snowmobile tours, but only well after the river has frozen (usually December–April). If you are interested, and there is a lot of snow on the ground, it's worth giving him a call anyway, and you do not need to pre-book before arriving in Churchill.
Same day rentals are almost always possible, and that is the way to go if you are trying to see the aurora (keep up to date on the space and local weather forecasts!) They will pick you up at the airport or train station, if you like. If you have a free day, a rental really is a good activity. Expect to spend at least $100 refuelling before returning. Remember to never lock the doors, so people can escape polar bears!
The Seaport Hotel's restaurant has an excellent traditional breakfast, and quite good lunch and dinner. It's pretty quiet, and does tend to attract more tourists than locals, but don't let that discourage you—this is a solid option with really nice servers and a full bar. This is the only restaurant in town that is open year round.
Breakfast is available only in bear season, and it's a pretty simple buffet (i.e., the other two restaurants have better breakfast). But dinner here is excellent, with some local oddities rolled into a menu of hearty carb-hugs, much needed at the end of a cold day. As the Tundra Lounge is next door, they have good beer and cocktails. No lunch.
Cosy restaurant in the Lazy Bear Lodge, the only place in town with an espresso machine. Good selection of sandwiches. No alcohol.
The liquor selection is pretty good here. The wine and beer a bit less so, but those are easy to get in the restaurants.
Legion members and their guests only, but a good place to meet locals.
The set-up here is pretty cool—it's a converted apartment building, so the rooms, which are all cozy two-storeys, feel a bit more like condo rentals.
The rooms are quite simple (no phones?), but the owners are friendly, and the hotel has the advantage of a decent-sized free continental breakfast that doesn't get put away until late in the day. Used by Great Canadian Travel Company.
On the residential side of town, this B&B is run by a dog sled team owner, who naturally will take guests out for rides. It's also a nice spot for aurora viewing, as it backs out into the sub-Arctic wild, with an unobstructed view towards Hudson Bay... and any polar bears walking towards town!
The old Churchill Motel is a little worn, but still a perfectly acceptable option, and tends to have availability in bear season, if you are having trouble finding something. The proprietor Dave, is much loved by the guests. Good breakfast at the restaurant, and a very central location.
A small, cozy, and rather basic hotel, with free hot coffee, tea and hot chocolate kept going all day long in the lobby. Good value and central location.
A rare southern location in town on the main road. The cosy hotel is all made from logs, and has one of the best restaurants in town—and probably the only one that will cook you up some muskox—albeit without a liquor license. As they operate their own tundra vehicles, this is a popular option for people who want to have their hotel take care of tour arrangements for them. Indeed, it's not clear whether it's even possible to book a room here without signing up for their tour.
This B&B has really good rates during bear season for independent travellers looking to cut down on the huge Churchill expenses. It's a small place, but well-kept, with three rooms and two shared bathrooms. The one free breakfast at Gypsy's included in the price is a nice plus. The good rates and small size mean you'll have to book far in advance.
A motel with standard rooms and apartment-style suites, with an enviable location across the street from the grocery store, next to all the gift shops (they actually have one of their own), and a couple doors down from the pub. Free continental breakfast includes hot waffles.
The Seaport has a good location in the centre of town, close to pretty much everything, and has arguably the best breakfast in town in their restaurant. Great staff.
This hotel has larger rooms than most in town, and has a shared kitchen, and free use of the clothes washer & dryer! The owners also operate the aurora domes outside of town, and will take you out there in the "aurora season" if they spot activity. They also run the Tundra Inn Pub across the street, which is the place to be at night, and has an early morning breakfast buffet during bear season (this does mean that there is no lunch by the hotel, though). The only real downside is the smell on the first floor, which is awful in the hall, but doesn't permeate the rooms too much (hopefully they'll take care of this at some point).
A cosy 6-bedroom property featuring a variety of bunk bed accommodations and private rooms. The property has shared kitchen and bathrooms, free Wi-Fi, cable TV, laundry, and linens. Open December–October.
It's possible to stay at the research station out in the tundra as part of a learning vacation, and have some truly expert specialist guides, with expertise regarding the ecosystems of the boreal forest, the pre-tundra, and sea ice. You need to book this very far in advance, as space is limited and there are regular repeat visitors who snag much of it up. As with the Tundra Buggy Lodge below, expect to lose a good deal of your independence, but it's a trade off for the learning-vacation with access to experts, and for the general experience of staying out in the wild north of the tree line. While the polar bear experience is the most popular, the late winter programs are intriguing: aurora/astronomy and a winter experience program where you learn to survive in the Arctic—igloo building, dog-sledding, etc. Stays are for five days, except the seven day polar bear experience. There are learning vacations focusing on the Northern Lights in February and March. The 5-day long seminars include workshops on the science, cultural history and techniques for photographing the Northern Lights.
The main point of coming to Churchill during bear season is to see the bears, and this is the most immersive experience. (The Tundra Lodge is only operational in October and November.) Sleeping in the lodge, which has two sleeper cars, a dining car, lounge car, and various other utility cars, as well as two outdoor decks. You can watch the bears wake up with you and go to sleep with you, see the northern lights without leaving your bedroom and without any external light interference, etc. The downside, of course, is that you lose a fair amount of independence, but if your main goal is to spend as much time as possible with the bears, this is the way to go. The Lodge is booked almost always as part of an all-inclusive package, which would include your transport to Churchill from Winnipeg as well as food. Stays are for 2–8 nights, and the price per person runs $3,800–11,350 (with plenty of options in between).
If you really want to get away from civilization and deep into the wild of the Canadian north, aboriginal-run Wat'chee Lodge is the best option. 55 km (40 mi) south of Churchill in the boreal forest just west of the Wapusk National Park boundary, you are staying in a refurbished navy communications base, just outside the world's largest polar bear denning habitat. Guides have permits to enter the park and can take you within 100 m to the bears. The denning areas in the wilderness are the best places to photograph mother polar bears with cubs. This is a bit of a professional wildlife photographer retreat, in fact, for other animals as well (in addition to some great aurora watching potential), such as foxes, wolves, ptarmigan, caribou herds, etc. The polar bear ecotourism experience is only in the denning season (Feb-March) which is also a great time for aurora viewing. Wat'chee does not have publicly available contact information, and you must submit inquiries through the form on their website.
Perhaps the coolest store in the Canadian North, this old wooden building has a wild selection, from local native artwork to a full-on polar bear suit. OK, so the polar bear suit (made in the 1950s) isn't for sale, and they're probably moving it to the Eskimo Museum, but there are a ton of other interesting animal products, from slippers to native-crafted pelt-art. You will almost certainly wind up buying something here, but the pleasure of browsing is reason alone to come.
Housed in a former Tundra Buggy, this is a small gallery housing arts and crafts exclusively made by locals. Cash only.
Another interesting gift shop with jewellery and watches, also with some especially useful stuff like camera batteries and memory cards. They will also repair broken cameras!
A smaller and more focused store specializing in Inuit and local paintings, photography, sculpture, and other visual art.
Ye olde general store is a place you'll almost certainly get to know, unless you are on a tour that takes care of everything. Groceries, some outdoor supplies (this is the only, limited option if you need winter weather gear that you forgot), DVDs, and some souvenirs. Things are more expensive this far north.
Way at the other end of town from the rest of the gift shops is a cool old log cabin (built by the owner) with an Aboriginal-run gift shop (run by the same proprietors of the Wapusk Adventures dog-sledding tour). The more interesting stuff here are the jewellery and glassware.
By plane
If you are connecting through Winnipeg to get to or from Churchill, allow plenty of time between flights.
By train
Churchill is the most northerly point in Canada that can be reached by passenger train. Taking the train to Churchill is much more affordable than flying, but takes much longer.
By car
There is no road to Churchill; however, you can drive to Thompson and pay to park your car there (try the Days Inn lot), and continue by train or airplane.
It's quite easy to walk within the city limits on your own. It takes about 10 minutes to walk from one end of town to the other.
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