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City in the Balearic Islands, Spain
Photo: Daniel Marzian, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Palma de Mallorca is the chief city of the island of Mallorca, and the capital of the entire Balearic Islands in the Mediterranean. With a population of 423,000 in 2022, it's home to half the people of Mallorca, and in summer feels like it contains half the people of Europe. A swathe of boxy hotels stretches out for 20 km on either side, and its airport is the entry point for all the resorts on the island. Yet for all the modern mediocrity, Palma retains a fine Old Town, with the highlights its cathedral and royal palace.
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La Seu
Huge ornate cathedral, impressive outside and within. It was started in 1229 but only completed in 1601, in mostly Gothic style; Gaudí had a go at improving it but quit in a strop. The Royal Chapel is the resting place of kings Jaime II and III. You can ascend the tower for an extra €15, but it's a lot of steps. The standard ticket includes Museo de Arte Sacro (aka Museu Diocesà), with religious paintings and silverware; this has a separate entrance east.
The fortress dates back to Roman times but what you see now is a rebuild from 1309. The ground floor is medieval while the upper floor, added in the 16th century, has the grand state rooms and suites. It was a seat of the kings of Mallorca and is still used as a residence by the Spanish royal family.
Sauna baths built in the tenth century, with under-floor heating; it's the only building in Palma dating to the Arab settlement. Only two or three small rooms are open, but there's a pleasant courtyard garden.
Small museum of city heritage, crowded with artworks.
Church and cloister founded in 1281, in similar style to the cathedral but without the tourist hordes. The Franciscan nuns moved in with the Poor Clares in the 19th century.
Museum of modern art, a branch of the Madrid foundation of financier Juan March Ordinas (1880-1962). Big names on display here include Picasso, Miró and Dalí, and the building is a stately 17th century mansion.
Sa Llotja
Medieval mercantile building with impressive architectural features, near the waterfront. It is occasionally used as event space but stands empty most of the time.
Three-storey collection of 19th-20th century works by artists from the Balearic islands.
"Village" containing replicas of notable Spanish buildings. In season there are artisan shops, restaurants and bars within, and it's an events venue, but it's a bit hollow at other times.
An unusual circular castle enclosing a courtyard, built in the 14th century over a Moorish fort. A circle is not the best design in the age of artillery, but there's an outer ravelin and it withstood two sieges. Within is a museum of archaeological finds and classical sculptures. Its hilltop site commands good views of the city and the bay.
Joan Miró lived mostly in Barcelona and Paris but had extended spells in Palma. His two former studios display 6000 works, and there's a sculpture garden.
Military museum in a 17th century Vauban-style bastion by the harbour.
Aquarium focused on Mediterranean and coastal ecosystems, with a huge shark tank and vast collection of live corals. Reservations advised.
This water park has slides and pools for kids of all ages.
Popular barbecue restaurant with steak grilled over a wood fire. Great service and value for money.
Sandwich shop, also with wraps and tacos, lots of vegan alternatives. Takeaway only, eat in the shade on the adjacent Passeig del Born.
All-vegan restaurant, some dishes are gluten-free. Menus change daily.
Small Chinese cafe bar, fast friendly service.
Trad homemade food in a popular cafe, you may have to queue.
Great home-cooked food for a bargain price.
Paella is all they serve, and it's good.
Good all-day place for breakfast and light bites.
Cozy friendly tapas restaurant.
Portside restaurant for seafood, paella, tapas and the like. Mixed reviews on whether it's worth what you pay.
French Tunisian homemade dishes, a one-man show. Vegan, GF and other diets no problem.
Great value for their day-long Med cuisine.
Small place that you need to book, serving whatever the chef finds best today, no written menu.
Chic place with fine dining.
Pricy and posy cocktail bar in a former coaching house, no food and reckon €20+ per cocktail. But you come for the over-the-top decor and atmosphere: Fridays at 23:30, the classical background music rises to a crescendo and fresh rose petals fall from a hidden balcony above the imposing fireplace.
Clean hostel by the marina.
Smart hotel and spa in the commercial centre.
Arty hotel, though the surrounds are sleazy.
Comfy city-centre hotel.
Chic hotel at the edge of old town.
Popular inexpensive 189-room hotel, near airport and beach.
Good value, family-friendly.
Family-oriented hotel near Pastilla marina.
Good beachfront hotel, geared up for cyclists.
Value-for-money midrange hotel.
Bright welcoming beachfront hotel.
Mostly good reviews for this independent hotel near the beach.
Pleasant beachfront hotel and spa with rooftop pool. Adults only.
Slick comfy hotel set back from the beach.
Good all-round hotel.
High standard of comfort and service.
Swish spa hotel towering above a golf course in the hills north of town.
Small 16th century palace converted into a hotel, and very plush. Some found it fusty, but most rate it highly for atmosphere and service.
A small 4-star hotel at Portixol harbour with an excellent restaurant.
Comfy hotel by the marina.
A luxurious yet friendly and charming 4-star beach hotel on the outskirts of Palma, with two swimming pools, conference facilities and golf.
By boat
Ferries sail to Palma from Barcelona (7 hr), Denia (5 hr) and Valencia (7 hr). Inter-island ferries sail to Palma from Ibiza (2-4 hr), Formentara (4 hr) and Mahon on Menorca (6 hr).
By road
All roads and routes converge on Palma from around the island. About the furthest point you could come from, Cala Ratjada on the east coast, is 83 km and takes 70 min.
By train
Estacio Intermodal is the main train, bus and metro station, underground at Plaça d'Espanya. Metre-gauge trains run to Inca, Sa Pobla and Manacor, see TIB for timetables and fares.
Buses within Palma city and its beach strip are run by EMT and are frequent. Bus CC orbits city centre M-F every 40 min and is free.
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Palma de Mallorca · International · PMI
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