Municipality in Castile and León, Spain
Photo: LlompartLlull, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Zamora is a city in Castile and León, with a population of 59,000 in 2023. The Old Town within the medieval walls has a remarkable collection of Romanesque churches.
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Romanesque cathedral consecrated in 1174. Highlights include the distinctive dome tower (a city icon), the Bishop's door, the choir stalls, high altar and chapels. The cloister (added in the 17th century) has a museum with Flemish tapestries depicting the Trojan wars. It's included in the cathedral ticket, along with Museo Diocesano within Iglesia de Santo Tomé.
Lobo (1910-1993) was a sculptor, born in Cerecinos de Campos 50 km north of Zamora. He mostly worked in Paris, being influenced by Brâncuși and Arp, and is best known for his depictions of mother and child. He's buried in Paris Montparnasse.
Facing the cathedral, this bastion was built around the 10th century, probably over Roman foundations.
Delightful little church outside the city walls, built maybe 1100 and dedicated to St James the Elder (or Apostle). It's also known as Santiago de los Caballeros - "of the knights" - because of the poetic legend that El Cid was knighted here: Afuera, afuera, Rodrigo, el soberbio castellano, acordásete debría de aquel buen tiempo pasado cuando fuiste caballero en el altar de Santiago, yadda yadda yah . . . As he'd died before the church was built he must have turned up as a corpse in shining armour, as he'd already done at Valencia.
A 7th century Visigoth church dedicated to St Peter was replaced in the 13th century. During the work they turned up relics claimed to be those of San Ildefonso (607-667), hence the dual dedication. He was actually still safely buried in Toledo, but they didn't care to enquire as churches needed holy relics to pull in the crowds and donations. This church was Romanesque but with various alterations down the years.
Cordón Palace
This exhibits archaeology and fine arts, with a small section on the history of the city.
The 12th century Romanesque Church of John the Baptist (San Juan Bautista) is also referred to as San Juan de Puerta Nueva, as it was near a gate in the city walls.
Huge collection over 3 floors of regional culture and heritage. Scant English signage.
Busy place serving trad food.
Buzzing bar famous for their barbecued pinchos.
Good value cafe, mind your step on the stairs.
Inexpensive self-service cafe for trad food.
Central place serving filling no-nonsense fare.
Friendly place tucked away off San Torcuato.
Good reviews for this trad steakhouse.
High standards for cuisine and service.
Quality trad food, wide menu selection with allergies and special diets well catered for.
Closed for refurbishment until May 2026. It's within the 15th century Palacio de los Condes de Alba y Aliste.
Central hotel with large rooms and good restaurant, built over a 15th century convent.
Convenient hotel with 68 rooms near the main shopping street, usually clean.
Now part of Marriott chain, this is a comfy place in the University district with 75 rooms and fitness centre. But you'd think an AC hotel would have better a/c?
Convenient chain hotel in an Art Deco building near the market.
Atmospheric budget place near the museum.
Great reviews for this bodega hotel and spa in Toro wine district.
By train
Trains from Madrid-Chamartin run every hour or two, taking just over an hour via Segovia and continuing to Ourense.
By road
From Madrid follow A-6 north to Tordesillas then E82 west to Zamora - this highway continues to Bragança in Portugal.
By bus
Flixbus N1151 runs all the way from Mainz via Frankfurt, Strasbourg, Paris, Bordeaux and Valladolid to Zamora, continuing to Bragança, Porto and Figueira da Foz.
The city is compact, most sights are in walking distance. Town buses converge on the bus and railway station.
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Salamanca · Regional · SLM
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