
Municipality in Castile and León, Spain
Photo: En tu corazón Valladolid, CC BY-SA 2.5 via Wikimedia Commons
Valladolid is a city in Castile and León in northern Spain, with a population of just over 300,000 in 2024. Much of it is modern and industrial but there's a concentration of sights in its medieval core.
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Museum of sacred art including works by Goya.
Miguel de Cervantes (1547-1616) lived in Valladolid 1604-06 when it was the capital. In 1605 Part 1 of his best-known work Don Quixote was published, and soon translated into other languages - Shakespeare, whose dates of birth and death almost coincide, had an early copy. Cervantes moved to Madrid for his remaining years and only published Part 2 in 1613 after a fraudster had published a bogus version. His house is small and won't take long to see.
Valladolid was briefly the capital of Spain and work began on a humonguous cathedral in Renaissance style, but funding was cut in the 1560s when power and patronage moved to Madrid, so only half was built. Now titled as Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, it was consecrated in 1668. The ruins of its 13th century predecessor are adjacent north.
Church of a former Benedictine monastery, built early 16th century in Gothic style. It's now maintained by the Carmelites.
In the cloister of San Benito monastery just north of the church, this is a museum of Spanish art since 1918. Big names include Joan Miró and Salvador Dalí.
In a 19th century mansion, this mostly exhibits archaeology from prehistoric and Roman times, but the paintings cover Spain's golden age through to the 16th century.
Museo Nacional de Escultura
Collection of religious sculpture and painting from 13th to 19th century: in Holy Week over 100 sculptures are loaned out to join processions. Palacio del Marqués de Villena is the annex across the street, housing exhibitions and an elaborate Neapolitan nativity tableau.
Built from 1445, this was the church of a Dominican convent; future kings Philip II and Philip IV of Spain were baptised here. It has a grand florid facade.
José Zorrilla (1817-1893) was a poet and playwright who was born and grew up in Valladolid. He flunked law school and moved to Madrid where over ten years he produced most of his work - best-known is the play Don Juan Tenorio. He then drifted away to France and the Americas, writing little, and was a forgotten impoverished figure on his return to Spain. He was rediscovered late in life, showered with gold and gongs, and made the national Poet Laureate in 1889. His childhood house and garden form this museum, visited by guided tour.
A modern museum exhibiting the life of Christopher Columbus (in Spanish: Cristóbal Colón) built into a replica of their family home. The museum has many modern and interactive exhibits and highlights the life of Columbus and also the history of indigenous New World populations. It also houses an institute on Hispanic American studies, which includes display cases representing many cultures from the Americas. Signage is only in Spanish but there are printed versions in other languages that you can request at the front desk.
Renaissance palace housing a museum of African art.
Extensive collection of oriental arts, housed in Convento de los Agustinos Filipinos.
Child-friendly interactive museum.
El Caballo de Troya
Good trad fare at this restaurant / taverna.
Friendly tapas bar.
Grilled steaks are the thing here.
It specialises in mussels.
Hybrid of tapas bar and restaurant. Service sometimes surly.
Great reviews for this trad restaurant in the convent basement.
Comfy little place, inconspicuous and you need a passcode to get in.
Pleasant small hotel, central but quiet.
Clean and spacious.
Small but comfy, very central.
Comfy place facing Campo Grande park.
Clean and friendly, midway between railway station and Plaza Mayor.
Temporarily closed.
Comfy, mixed reviews for service and catering.
Clean but charmless place 1 km west of centre.
Okay chain hotel close to shopping.
Good-enough Accor budget hotel in an industrial area 2 km north of centre.
Comfy mid-price hotel. It's in a humdrum residential area 5 km southwest of centre, near autovia and with secure parking.
Ageing hotel 5 km south of town but near autovia.
By train
Valladolid Campo Grande has two trains an hour from Madrid Chamartin, taking 65 min via Segovia Guiomar; three per day start from Alicante.
By bus
Alsa buses run hourly from Madrid Estancion Sur, taking 2 hr 30 min via Madrid Moncloa and Segovia. Every 2-3 hours, these start from Madrid Airport T4.
By road
From Madrid follow AP6 / 61 / 601 north west, 210 km via Segovia.
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Valladolid · Regional · VLL
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