Mullingar is the county town of County Westmeath, with a population of 23,000 in 2022. It has nearby lakes for recreation and a grand mansion with a disturbing history. Further out are a scattering of castle and religious ruins, near small villages that are short of visitor amenities, so this page covers the whole north end of the county.
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This impressive Roman Catholic cathedral was built from 1933 in Renaissance style and consecrated in 1939. It has striking mosaics by Boris Anrep (1883-1969), who clearly had half his mind on the poet Anna Akhmatova when he decorated the chapel of St Anne.
This Palladian villa was built as a hunting lodge in 1740 for Robert Rochfort the first Earl of Belvedere. He made it his main home since he was using his residence at Gaulstown (now demolished) to incarcerate his wife Mary Molesworth for having an affair with his brother Arthur; he also got Arthur imprisoned for debt (the unpaid legal damages for the affair). They were only released when he died, Arthur having been confined 18 years and Mary 31 years. He'd also built Belvedere — which of course means "pleasant view" — right next to his brother George, who he hated: the great ramshackle wall that looks like the ruin of an earlier castle is a "jealousy wall" so he didn't have to see George's better mansion. His cause of death was blunt trauma to the head, but there was no appetite for hunting a culprit, so it was called a maybe-accident. After various owners the property passed to Westmeath County Council in 1982. House and gardens have been extensively restored.
Races are on Saturday and Sunday evenings. TV coverage intersperses races here with those at Shelbourne Park Dublin.
Parkland course by the lake, the chief tournament is the Scratch Trophy in August (72 holes strokeplay). Rory McIlroy won it in 2006. Blue tees are 6683 yards, par 72.
Med-style restaurant, most reviewers enjoyed.
Good central cafe for breakfast or lunch.
Friendly central pub with a good selection of food.
Well-run site for camping and tourer caravans on lakeside, open Apr-Sept.
Central hotel, clean, comfy and good value unless they've a hen / stag party staying.
Good mid-price hotel with 30 bedrooms in the heart of Mullingar. Free car park, though it's small.
Reliable inexpensive hotel in the centre of Mullingar, and featured in the writings of James Joyce.
At first glance it's just a boxy business hotel on the bypass, but it gets great reviews for comfort, service and dining. With conference facilities, leisure club and pool, and set in landscaped gardens.
Slick hotel, leisure club and spa in a great lakeside setting.
Welcoming Georgian house, mainly B&B but dining on request. Open Jan-Nov.
Upscale Victorian manor house with great dining, open mid-Apr-Oct. No dogs, they're iffy about children.
By train
Intercity trains from Dublin Connolly take 75 min to Mullingar via Drumcondra and Maynooth, and continue to Longford, Dromod, Carrick-on-Shannon, Boyle, Ballymote and Sligo.
By bus
Expressway Bus 22 / 23 runs six times a day from Dublin Busáras, taking 90 min via Dublin Airport, Lucan and Maynooth.
By road
From Dublin take M4 / N4 and reckon an hour, 80 km (49 miles).
By boat
The Royal Canal is navigable along its entire length from Dublin through Mullingar to the Shannon near Longford: check Waterways Ireland for current info on locks, maintenance closures, moorings and…
The town is compact but you need your own wheels for outlying sites. Distances are not great and the terrain is lowland so a bike would do.
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