Town in North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany
Photo: Jean-Pol GRANDMONT, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Monschau, sometimes called the "Pearl of the Eifel", is a small, historic town in the German Eifel. Largely unchanged for over 300 years, the narrow, cobblestoned streets and traditional half-timbered houses have made this charming place one of the main tourist attractions of the region. Set in the beautiful landscapes of the Eifel region, at a stones-throw from the Eifel National Park, it makes an excellent base for hikers and cyclists. While popular in summer, it only becomes truly overrun for its famous Christmas market in winter.
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Rotes Haus
In the heart of town, named after the pronounced colour of its façade, this is one of the most noticeable buildings. This 1756 mansion was owned by Johan Heinrich Scheibler, one of the most prominent cloth producers and traders in town. His famous 18th century fabrics found their way to the courts of the French king and the Turkish sultan. The mansion is now a museum, boasting a full historic interior with all the grand features of the Rococo / Louis XV style that marked the wealth of its former proprietor. Of particular interest is the three story open-newel spiral staircase, decorated with wood carvings depicting all the main steps in the cloth production. Two surviving original cloth sample books showcase the huge collection of cloths designed and produced here. Guided tours start every hour.
Monschau castle
The old castle overlooking town originates in the 13th century but was attacked and seized by Emperor Charles V in the 16th century. The castle fell into ruins after private owners had the roofs removed in 1836/37, in order to avoid property taxes. At the turn of the 20th century, the province initiated an effort the save the historic building from complete destruction. Since the 1970s, it houses the local youth hostel and serves as the stage for concerts in summer. Unfortunately, as it is in use by the hostel, it's not open for the general public.
Mustard remains a typical produce of Monschau, and in the old mustard mill the traditional recipe is still being made. When it was installed in 1882, the mill relied on a waterwheel. Today, it's driven with electricity. The small shop sells a range of different varieties. Guided tours in German are given on Wednesdays and Fridays at 11.00 and 14.00h, with no reservation needed. Groups can make reservations for guided tours.
Weinachtsmarkt
The last four weekends before Christmas, Monschau is all about fairy-like lights, the smell of mulled wine and, of course, an abundance of Christmas decorations. The little town takes its Christmas market quite seriously indeed, with live music, plenty of food and dozens of market stands selling sweets, gifts and decorations. Make sure to not plan your departure too early, as the highlight of the event is the atmosphere and countless little lights after sundown. The market roughly covers the area from Richters Eck, via the Market Square on to the Patere Höfje, behind the Aukirche church. Monschau is a particularly popular destination in this time, so book your accommodation well ahead if you want to stay for the night.
This annual classical music concert brings an every changing programme of national and international musicians in the wonderful courtyard of the old fortress. Make sure to purchase tickets well in advance.
Popular place along the river. The menu includes a range of pizzas and a good selection of traditional German dishes, which are excellent value. The place has a strong pub-feel, with fun and friendly staff. The 3-course set menus are cheap, at around 15 euro. No outdoor terrace.
Right on the market place, this restaurant offers traditional meat and fish dishes. The couple who runs it is most proud of their mustard sauce dishes, but most of the food gets good reviews.
One of the best places to sample some of the excellent local sweet pastries and pies, this coffee house also serves savoury breakfast and lunch dishes. It's a cosy establishment with a nice view over the market and a pleasant outdoor terrace.
The name says it all; if you're craving chocolate in any way, or something similarly sweet, this is one of the best options around. Nonetheless, they also serve coffee and nice savoury lunches. With patience games on every table, it's a fun place to linger.
Old-fashioned German style, and traditional German food. This place has some lovely views over the river. Slightly more upmarket than the other restaurants in town, prices are somewhat higher and dishes a bit more sophisticated, but still well within midrange. Open for lunch and dinner.
A 10-minute walk from the main centre, this small hotel / B&B is one of the more modern places to stay. It serves a good breakfast and has good, clean rooms with nice bathrooms. Especially in low season, the reception is not open at all hours, but the owner can be reached by phone at all times.
Right in the old town, and housed in a historic building. Friendly service and pleasant rooms, but no elevator.
Housed in the town's castle, the setting of this place alone makes it a fun choice. There are 103 beds divided over 20 rooms, ranging from doubles to 12-bed dorms. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Family apartments are available in a separate wing of the castle, and many of the leisure activities are kid-friendly.
A nice 20-minute walk through the forest from the old town (with some elevation), this camping ground is tucked away beautifully into its natural surroundings. The small and shallow stream that runs right through the camping ground, dividing the main camper area from the dedicated tent meadow, gives a peaceful feel and serves at the main playing object for kids. Toilets and showers are clean and free of charge and there's a small restaurant on the premises. The rocky soil here requires some sturdy gear to fix your tent. Electricity is available at a €3 surcharge, but bring an extension cable.
Quaint, well-maintained but small hotel in an old mansion. The place feels like a bed & breakfast, with no restaurant for lunch and diner. Some of the rooms have excellent views over town, so ask when you're booking. The breakfast is extensive and the staff friendly, rooms are small and somewhat simple (no TV) but adequate. Free Wi-Fi, although reception is limited on the top floors.
By car
Driving is a common way to get in. In peak season, and especially during the Christmas market, parking spots can get very scarce and taking a bus might be a better idea.
By bus
From Aachen Bushof and Aachen Rote Erde station, AVV line SB66 runs every half-hour on weekdays and every hour in weekends and holidays.
By bike
The former railway line Vennbahn was converted into a bike trail in 2013 and connects Monschau with Aachen, Trier and the country of Luxembourg.
The town is small and its lovely narrow streets are best explored on foot. Most of the main sights, shops and restaurant are situated around the river side, but for some areas you should count on fairly strong elevation.
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