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City and sangkat in Kratié, Cambodia
Photo: Monsoontours, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Kratie (ក្រចេះ, pronounced kra-chey) is a tiny town in northeastern Cambodia. Despite its small size, it is the capital of the province of the same name.
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There are 3 basket weaver villages near Kratie. The biggest is the Cham village Chheu Teil Ploch with 4,000 villagers.
Spot cranes, rhinos, deer, and even elephants in Kratie. Concrete, sadly, but melancholy reminder of the wealth of creatures that once roamed the local area.
Here you can sometimes catch a musical performance. Groups sometimes come to perform singing contests here, with both traditional Cambodian instruments and Western. Otherwise, nothing else to really see here. It's by the river by the northern roundabout.
A rather nifty temple north of town and situated on the only hill anywhere near Kratie. A long set of steps lead to a pavilion, the interior of which is painted with torture scenes, depictions of what happens to those not virtuous enough to lead a holy and clean lifestyle. Makes a good stop on the way back to or from the dolphins. As a little bonus you might catch a glimpse of the family of monkeys that lives around the temple.
This is a pre-Angkorian era settlement. The temples, among which is Wat Sorsor Muoy Roi (temple of 100 columns) contain several colourful murals that tell legends of nature, and other traditional Buddhist stories. The original structure is no longer standing, in its place is a reconstructed temple.
If you are really keen, go see the Culture Ministry and they might open it up for you (for an appropriate donation, say US$2) - though you'll be lucky to catch them in the office.
There are very interesting places along the Mekong River. You enjoy your day at the villages along both sides of the Mekong river. You can go by tuk-tuk or motorbike.
There's a basketball and volleyball area on the south side of the old governor's residence. The security guards probably won't refuse a civil request to use it within reasonable hours, and they might even join in.
If you are interested in birds, when on the boat, go upstream to the islands to look for the Mekong wagtail (Motacilla samveasnae), a Cambodian specialty species that can be found in this stretch of the river. Early morning might find them hopping on rocks near the dolphin area.
CRDT is a local organisation which works with communities along the river and runs Community Development Tours to their projects. This gives you a unique experience of Cambodian village life, and the chance to help out with their integrated development and dolphin conservation project. Organises Mekong Discovery Trail legs (you pay a donation) and provides free information concerning the track sections in the area.
There are only around 85 dolphins in the Mekong, but there is a very good chance to see some at Kampi. As river dolphins, these animals don't generally approach or show curiosity towards tourist boats like some marine dolphins do. There is no best time of day to see the dolphins as their activity patterns don't change much over the course of the day, though it can be pleasant with the setting sun late in the day, and fiercely hot in the early afternoon. The dry season offers generally better opportunities to see groups together and spectacular behaviour (rare though it is), and in wet season the boat trip is considerably longer as the animals move several kilometres upstream from the tourist site. To protect the dolphins, you should ensure that your boatmen follows the dolphin watching guidelines provided and only use oars when near the dolphins. There's also a nice little shop which does benefit the community and helps encourage the villagers conserve the remaining dolphins. By motodop, this trip should be around US$2-4 for the round trip, about 20 min each way. Or rent a motorbike for US$5. Cycling to this spot should take about 60 min, bicycles are available for rent in Kratie and cost about 5,000 riel a day.
The Mekong Discovery Trail takes you into the heart of the Mekong where the beauty of the river and the friendliness of the people create unforgettable river life experiences in northeast Cambodia. The Mekong Discovery Trail is a network of safe, eco-tourism journeys through some of the most natural and least populated parts of the Mekong.
Go kayaking along the Te River or Mekong River near the town of Kratie. Half-day, one day, and overnight trips are available at reasonable prices. Along the river you can see dolphins, many unique bird species, forest, villages, cropland, and Vietnamese floating villages. If you participate in the overnight trip, you can enjoy a peaceful home stay along the Te River.
Typical Khmer food including staples such as of fried rice, grilled chicken, and rather tasty French fries.
A backpacker staple with good food and drinks, and the expat touch. Prices are reasonable, but not as cheap as the nearby Khmer food. Service can be slow, but what's the hurry? The Red Sun Falling also has a good selection of books for sale, which you can browse while you wait. There is a new owner, Joe's right hand for many years, who is carrying on with the books and food as usual without the grumpiness. However, Joe's specials will be missed, as well as his famous St Valentines parties. Free Wi-Fi.
Students eat here early in the morning rice with meat and vegetables or a soup before they go to school. Seasonal and daily menu of typical Khmer food including BBQ, Khmer salads, eggs and soups, home made prahok, freshly made fruit juices, ice cream and Khmer herbal spirits.
has large, light, clean rooms with good quality furnishings. Relaxing restaurant/bar on the balcony overlooking the Mekong, a perfect place to watch the sunset. There is also a communal area with an extensive collection of DVDs and Wi-Fi. Standard menu of Khmer and Western food US$1-5 and slightly more expensive daily specials. Lots of vegetarian food, including marinated tofu burgers, though the service can be excruciatingly slow when busy.
Now offers river front rooms of very good quality (especially at the Heng Heng 2), if slightly pricier than other options in town. This place has been upgrading itself significantly over the past few years, and now has hot running water. Tasty Khmer food at reasonable speed and price per dish US$1-2.50. Khmer breakfast also OK with a Western option of omelette and bread for US$1. Wi-Fi downstairs.
Probably the best hotel in town, and some of the top-floor rooms offer good views of the Mekong. Owned by a local general (in his wife's name), whose official government salary is about US$38/month; the opulence of the timber decorating the place might suggest where the money came from for this substantial investment. Service can be a bit on the low side - toilet paper not provided even on repeated request ("I don't care"). Has Wi-Fi in most rooms.
This has long been considered the standard choice for tour groups, and has a small restaurant. Rooms come with hot running water, but the bathrooms are generally dirty, and some cable channels for your viewing pleasure (even though you probably didn't come to Kratie to watch TV). Wi-Fi in reception.
This branch can change US dollars and Thai baht only. They can also cash travellers cheques. The ATM only accepts Acleda ATM cards and Visa cards. A more expensive option for funds, but saves a 3- to 4-hr trip to Kampong Cham.
They will always use new razor blades, but the towels are not the most hygienic.
Bank branch and ATM. This ATM charges less than the Aceleda Bank, and accepts Maestro, Cirrus, Visa and MasterCard.
Range of local handicrafts and products such as honey, local juices, rice, handmade hats. CEDAC is run by a local NGO and profits go towards their rural development products.
Find the standard assortment of local foods, fruits and meats, as well as a small variety of handicrafts. Remember your bargaining skills and etiquette when here.
Look out for packets of money on display. Some guesthouses can also change money. They will give you in general a slightly better rate than the bank but you have to ask around for the best deal. Some of them do also change other currencies than dollars such as Thai baht, Vietnamese dong, and Myanmar kyat. Occasionally, other western currencies are changed as well but expect a poor rate. It is possible to change Lao kip but you are better off changing kip to dollars before leaving Lao. Balcony Guesthouse usually offers the best rate for kip, though still low.
By bus
The bus/truck station is in the northwest part of town.
By taxi
Share-taxis and minivans serving Phnom Penh (4-5 hr), Stung Treng (2 hr), Kampong Cham (2 hr), Ban Lung (4 hr), Sen Monorom (4 hr), and a number of other small towns go from the taxi stand a block…
By truck
Trucks arrive from various neighbouring towns and provinces but you have to weigh the benefits and drawbacks of this form of transport carefully.
By boat
With the improvement of the roads, ferry services along the Mekong River from Kampong Cham no longer run.
As the town is so small, ignore offers from touts to take you from the bus stop into town, since it's a walk of just a few minutes.
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