Banlung

Cheap, with a relaxed pub-like feel. Has a pool table, big screen television, filling meals and draught beer. Especially convivial on Friday nights when the expats gather

Good beef and home-style chips.

Gecko has moved and the style has changed. The new place is a hit with locals. Upmarket ambience. Owned by the brother of A'dam's host, there's good food at competitive prices including Thai dishes, pizza and draught beer. Popular meeting place for lunches and small group dinners. Free Wi-Fi. Choose inside with air-con or the garden. Prices are reasonable and rumour has it that they have a new chef from PP.

A couple of good soup restaurants: the first, Tanam, is popular for breakfasts. The second, Soup 63, has a great view. Down the second street left is another Khmer place, while further out on the left are three Khmer restaurants, Red Cow, Green House with last named in Khmer only, that have gone beyond plastic chairs and strip lights to more pleasant décor.

The menu has a couple of English and Mexican specialities, such as shepherd's pie and chili con carne, and pizza. The menu is sorted by waiting time, important as the slow service is infamous. No Khmers eat here twice. Impatient diners can call to order pizzas in advance.

Cool place to hang out and meet people in the evenings. Open all day.

Some rooms have air-con and hot water; there is also a mixed 4-bed dorm and rooms with shared bathroom. Camping sites are also available on the large wooded property. Overlooking the lake, in the attached bar/restaurant is a small TV lounge with comfortable chairs in which to just read, watch the sunset or the large-screen TV with over 100 DVDs. Has a wide selection of Asian and Western food including vegetarian, but also an extensive, MSG-free, Khmer menu, including local ethnic minority dishes and forest meats. Open for meals 07:00-21:00, later for drinks. Full bar, a full-sized snooker table and dart board, free Wi-Fi, books to swap. This place used to be Lakeview Lodge, but there is some confusion as the previous owner uses the old Lakeview phone and email to book clients for his new place.

Overlooks Kan Siang Lake, featuring fan and air-con rooms, hot water and cable TV, plus some bungalows in the garden. Lakeview rooms are priced US$5 more than road view. The view across the water from the restaurant is its one real good feature.

Little local homestay including very basic dorms near the town center. The owner speaks good English, and also arranges independent tours such as jungle treks, and minority villages. Seems serious about quality and honest business practices.

The town's top accommodation, boasting a large post-colonial villa-style guesthouse, a group of bungalow suites, a large pool and spa/massage facility and the town's best eatery set in sprawling tropical gardens overlooking the town lake. It is decorated with memorabilia reflecting the founders French Army "para" past. Its restaurant, Le Jovial Jarai, is arguably the finest restaurant in town, known for its garden setting and music. It serves a variety of Cambodian, Thai, Chinese and Western dishes and has a full bar, white jacketed waiters and table linen. Prices average US$4.50 per main dish with more expensive imported steaks.

An unusual design with stilt-house bungalows connected by elevated walkways. Opened by an old tourism hand, "Mr T", it has nice views and a typical restaurant that is a little more expensive than its peers (beer US$1-1.25).

Acleda (pronounced "A.C. leader") is the only bank in Banlung. It has an ATM that accepts Visa but not Cirrus or Mastercard. Since guesthouses in town that cash travellers' cheques charge high commissions and ATMs are unreliable, visitors are advised to carry sufficient cash both for the visit and for travel onto the next destination. The Acleda charge for overseas cards is US$2, and although many Cambodian banks in Phnom Penh don't charge, ANZ Royal charge US$4. Canadia Bank have a branch, with a 24-hr ATM that accepts many cards, on the street on the west side of the market.

Banlung's market is a typical Cambodian market selling the same merchandise as other markets. At early many Khmer Loeu people come to the market from their villages to sell fruits, vegetables and forest products. In addition to offering a good shopping opportunity it is a very photogenic, although permission should be sought.

Quiet atmosphere and reggae music. Western and local. Also vegan and vegetarian (HappyCow). Popular with Westerners