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Commune in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, France
Photo: moi-même, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Chamonix (officially Chamonix-Mont-Blanc) is a resort in the Haute-Savoie region of France, bordering Italy, at the foot of Mont Blanc. It's regarded as the birthplace of mountaineering and as one of its capitals.
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Jacques Balmat (1762-1834) was one of the pair who first reached the peak of Mont Blanc. The statue, erected in 1887, is a popular photo spot, looking south so that Mont Blanc forms the background. But where's his climbing companion Michel-Gabriel Paccard? Not there: the second figure is de Saussure, who'd put up the prize for the ascent, and who Balmat later guided to the summit. Balmat was a very talented mountaineer, but overplayed his celebrity, and wrote Paccard out of history. Not until 1986 did Paccard earn a statue, sitting alone with his alpenstock on ave Michel Croz near the Alpine Museum - the first version became frost-damaged and was replaced in 1991. Dr Paccard (1757-1827) went on to be a leading local citizen and magistrate, and married Balmat's sister. What was his non-personning really all about?
Alpine Museum
Located in an early 20th century hotel, it shows the development of alpinism in the region from the first ascent of Mont Blanc to the modern sports climbers by means of historical paintings, photos and maps. They also host interesting temporary exhibitions.
Crystal and Mineral museum
Impressive collection of crystals, mostly from Chamonix (smoky and rose quartz), but also from the rest of the Alps and worldwide. Describes the geology and formative processes involved.
Ice Sea
One of the largest glaciers in Europe, 7.5 km long - 12 km if its tributaries are included - but shrinking fast, and rattling along at 1 cm an hour. It's usually admired from Hotel de Montenvers at the top of the rack railway (see "Get around"). There's a museum within the hotel, a cave serving as a small crystal museum, and a small glacier museum in a nearby hut. You can also visit an ice cave inside the glacier itself, either by descending the 550 steps, or by a short cable car ride.
This is north side of the valley, opposite to Mont Blanc, so it gives you better views of the massif. The valley station is in Chamonix town centre, and the first car rides up to Planpraz at 1999 m. The second car rises to 2525 m. As it's south-facing, the lower slope loses its snow early, so it may be possible to drive up to or walk down from Planpraz. Further along the valley, another car ascends from Les Praz at 1060 m to La Flegere at 1894 m.
It goes from Les Praz village to the La Flégère site at an altitude of 1877 m. With a further chair lift ascending to an altitude of 2595 m.
Two cable cars (Bellevue one and Parion gondola) ascend from Les Houches, 5 km down the valley from Chamonix. The larger cable car rises to the ridge of Bellevue at 1794 m. As the name implies, there are excellent views of the Chamonix valley, with Mont Blanc to one side and Brevent to the other, and a short walk over the ridge brings St Gervais, Sallanches and the Glacier de Bionnassay into view. Bellevue is on the usual climbers' ascent of Mont Blanc towards Nid d'Aigle. The smaller cable car, rising to Prarion at 1900 m, is same price as the larger.
These serve the ski area above Argentière at 1252 m. The highest is the two-stage ascent to Lognan at 1972 m then Grands Montets at 3275 m. The lower cable car runs year round, the upper only in ski season.
Near the top of the Chamonix valley, this cable car rises above Le Tour village (at 1462 m) to Charamillon at 1850 m. A chairlift continues to Les Autannes at 2195 m. Another cable car starts from Vallorcines village. Either way, you'll need skis or snowshoes to approach the Swiss border, and there are no trails down the Swiss side.
Téléphérique de l'Aiguille du Midi
This is one of the highest cable-cars in the world. The valley station is in Chamonix town centre at 1035 m. The first car ascends to Plan de l'Aiguille at 2310 m. From there the second car ascends to 3810 m, including one 3 km gulf between pylons, with the complete ride taking 20 minutes. At the top there is a restaurant and viewing platforms, and you can take an elevator to the summit of Aiguille du Midi at 3842 m. Dress very warmly. This is the highest point of the lift system, and the summit of Mont Blanc looks temptingly close, but don't be deceived: it's an arduous up-and-down route that needs a full day to ascend and return. You can continue towards Italy by the Vallée Blanche cable car (listed below); expert skiers can descend the Vallée.
Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, Funivia dei Ghiacciai
Starting from Aiguille du Midi at 3778 m, the first section runs to Gros Rognon at 3536 m. This is just a technical station where the cable takes a corner, and you can't get out. The second section is near-level over the Glacier du Géant, to Punta Helbronner at 3466 m on the border with Italy. This is the cable car that stranded 110 people, some overnight, in Sep 2016; it's also the one that a French military jet tried to fly beneath in 1961, and took out three cars.
From Punta Hellbronner at 2466 m, the upper cable car descends to Pavillon du Mont-Frety at 2200 m, where there's an alpine garden, winery and two restaurants. The lower stage descends to Portal at 1300 m, near Les Paluds above Courmayeur. The Skyway runs every 20 mins, last ascent 16:30, last descent 17:00. The usual way to complete the circuit back to Chamonix is to take the SAVDA bus through the tunnel. This cable car is routinely closed in November for annual maintenance.
Mostly easy pistes, a suitable resort for families.
South of Chamonix, this is likely the best choice for families, and often has the best low-altitude conditions. It is the only ski area below the treeline, so it is a good place to go in poor visibility.
It has easy slopes for beginners, but also some out-of-bounds skiing if you are willing to hike up with your skis. The front side of Le Tour is sunny, but it can still be very windy. The other side of the ridge descends into Vallorcine.
Skiing for all levels, but mostly mid to extreme, good for ambitious and experienced skiers.
Accessed from the town of Argentière, this has the highest and toughest slopes. The signature descent is from Grands Montets down the Argentière glacier, descending 2000 m, for experienced skiers only.
White Valley
The easiest descent is "red run" standard, well within the capability of a confident intermediate. But there are also great difficulties and dangers up here, on an ever-changing glacier, and you need a guide. The descent needs a full day from Aiguille du Midi at the top of the cable car system. You then slither and slide down an icy path to the glacier located 300 m below. The route (which is by no means a "piste") leads down through the Vallée Blanche and Mer de Glace.
mountain guides
Established in 1821, they lead day trips and longer mountain tours.
Usual Japanese fare.
French / Asian fusion.
Good wine & food including vegan.
Authentic French food, but not typical Savoyard.
Popular with the après-ski crowd and expats, Chambre Neuf offers a classy location for a tasty and reasonably-priced lunch, a bite to eat, or a happy-hour cocktail.
Chamonix's largest nightclub may be a bit empty out of season (even though it's often the only late-night joint open) but it's still fun and a good place to mingle with tourists, expats and even a few locals!
Gay-friendly nightclub in Chamonix Sud. Good place for a boogie.
While the walk to 'the Vag' can be a chilly one in winter, you'll probably be met by a roaring fire, football on the TV and a fun crowd of regulars (expats) and backpackers staying in the adjoining hostel. A good place to watch sport or for a low-key midweek chat.
Auberge de Jeunesse
Hostel, member of the Fédération Unie des Auberges de Jeunesse and Hostelling International.
Upmarket chalet, sleeps 14-18.
Two-star hotel in central Chamonix.
Catered 4-bedroom chalet close to the centre of Chamonix.
They let six chalets in Argentiere.
Central 3-star. Private car park.
They run 5 chalets in Chamonix, all with catering: Chalet Cachat, 14 Rue Mummery, six bedrooms; Chalet La Chapelle, no details available; Chalet Heidi on Rue de Pelerins, five bedrooms; Chalet Cerisier, 253 Ave des Bois, five bedrooms; Mont Blanc Lodge, 90 Chemin de la Tournette, six bedrooms.
They run three self-catering chalets in the Chamonix Valley, all around Les Houches some way from Chamonix and from ski lifts so you'll need your own car. The three are Chalet Charme at Sous les Bois, and Chalet Fiz and Chalet Narnia in Vaudagne.
By train
From Paris and other points west, the usual route is via Geneva (3 hr 15 min from Gare de Lyon) then to Martigny (90 min, frequent trains towards Brig) to join the mountain railway.
By bus
Flixbus runs between Chamonix and Geneva downtown (two per day, 90 min), Turin (two per day, 3 hr 30 min) and Milan (two per day, 4 hr).
By car
Coming from Geneva or anywhere in France, take A40. From Switzerland, take A9 to Martigny then the mountain road over Col des Montets into France.
By rail
See "Get in" above for the valley railway between St Gervais, Chamonix and Martigny.
By bus
Buses run along the valley every 30 min between Les Houches, Chamonix, and Le Tour above Argentiere. Buses run from 06:00 to 20:30 and there's also a late bus "Chamo'Nuit" until midnight.
By cable car
See "Do".
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