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From Punta Hellbronner at 2466 m, the upper cable car descends to Pavillon du Mont-Frety at 2200 m, where there's an alpine garden, winery and two restaurants. The lower stage descends to Portal at 1300 m, near Les Paluds above Courmayeur. The Skyway runs every 20 mins, last ascent 16:30, last descent 17:00. The usual way to complete the circuit back to Chamonix is to take the SAVDA bus through the tunnel. This cable car is routinely closed in November for annual maintenance.
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Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, Funivia dei Ghiacciai
Starting from Aiguille du Midi at 3778 m, the first section runs to Gros Rognon at 3536 m. This is just a technical station where the cable takes a corner, and you can't get out. The second section is near-level over the Glacier du Géant, to Punta Helbronner at 3466 m on the border with Italy. This is the cable car that stranded 110 people, some overnight, in Sep 2016; it's also the one that a French military jet tried to fly beneath in 1961, and took out three cars.
White Valley
The easiest descent is "red run" standard, well within the capability of a confident intermediate. But there are also great difficulties and dangers up here, on an ever-changing glacier, and you need a guide. The descent needs a full day from Aiguille du Midi at the top of the cable car system. You then slither and slide down an icy path to the glacier located 300 m below. The route (which is by no means a "piste") leads down through the Vallée Blanche and Mer de Glace.
Ice Sea
One of the largest glaciers in Europe, 7.5 km long - 12 km if its tributaries are included - but shrinking fast, and rattling along at 1 cm an hour. It's usually admired from Hotel de Montenvers at the top of the rack railway (see "Get around"). There's a museum within the hotel, a cave serving as a small crystal museum, and a small glacier museum in a nearby hut. You can also visit an ice cave inside the glacier itself, either by descending the 550 steps, or by a short cable car ride.
Téléphérique de l'Aiguille du Midi
This is one of the highest cable-cars in the world. The valley station is in Chamonix town centre at 1035 m. The first car ascends to Plan de l'Aiguille at 2310 m. From there the second car ascends to 3810 m, including one 3 km gulf between pylons, with the complete ride taking 20 minutes. At the top there is a restaurant and viewing platforms, and you can take an elevator to the summit of Aiguille du Midi at 3842 m. Dress very warmly. This is the highest point of the lift system, and the summit of Mont Blanc looks temptingly close, but don't be deceived: it's an arduous up-and-down route that needs a full day to ascend and return. You can continue towards Italy by the Vallée Blanche cable car (listed below); expert skiers can descend the Vallée.
Jacques Balmat (1762-1834) was one of the pair who first reached the peak of Mont Blanc. The statue, erected in 1887, is a popular photo spot, looking south so that Mont Blanc forms the background. But where's his climbing companion Michel-Gabriel Paccard? Not there: the second figure is de Saussure, who'd put up the prize for the ascent, and who Balmat later guided to the summit. Balmat was a very talented mountaineer, but overplayed his celebrity, and wrote Paccard out of history. Not until 1986 did Paccard earn a statue, sitting alone with his alpenstock on ave Michel Croz near the Alpine Museum - the first version became frost-damaged and was replaced in 1991. Dr Paccard (1757-1827) went on to be a leading local citizen and magistrate, and married Balmat's sister. What was his non-personning really all about?
Alpine Museum
Located in an early 20th century hotel, it shows the development of alpinism in the region from the first ascent of Mont Blanc to the modern sports climbers by means of historical paintings, photos and maps. They also host interesting temporary exhibitions.