Percé

More popular with locals than the tourist crowd, the bread and butter at this roadside snack bar in L'Anse-à-Beaufils is deep-fried goodies like breaded cod filets, fish and chips, and scallops, as well as poutine, Montreal smoked meat sandwiches, and other Quebec specialties. However, Resto de l'Anse is probably most famous around these parts for their seafood pizza, which they deliver to any location from downtown Percé to Sainte-Thérèse starting at 11:00 every morning. Service is friendly and folksy, seating is either indoors or outside on picnic tables, and prices are hard to beat.

Far from the madding crowds of central Percé is found this old fish factory that now wears many hats: art gallery, concert hall, community gathering place, and pleasant terraced bistro serving up some of the finest food the area has to offer. La Vieille Usine is all about Gaspesian cuisine made with Gaspesian ingredients: the menu makes great use of produce and meat from area farms as well as other local artisanal goods (including microbrews on tap from L'Anse-à-Beaufils' own Pit Caribou) to whip up mouth-watering local specialties such as salt cod patties and lobster club sandwiches. Appetizers and other light fare look down-to-earth at first glance but are deceptively sophisticated — there's a cheeseburger on the menu, all right, but it's made with ground lamb from a farm on Chaleur Bay and topped with warm chèvre. The main courses, for their part, begin with creative concoctions incorporating local seafood, but don't end there — there's also a full range of gourmet pizzas, pasta dishes, and salads. The pleasant, airy ambience makes the ever-present crowds bearable, and you can frequently catch live music or other performances.

This hidden gem is in off-the-beaten-path Barachois, a good distance away from downtown Percé, but it's well worth the trip. Breakfast is the main attraction at Le Café des Couleurs: you can get hot cereal, yoghurt, and standard eggs-and-bacon fare, but the specialty is a range of Belgian waffles that come topped with everything from standard favourites like maple syrup and fruit compote to oddballs like smoked salmon, scallops, and ceviche. Upscale coffee concoctions are abundant. At lunchtime, there's a range of light fare including daily soup and salad specials. The ambience is quiet and pleasant, with walls adorned with the work of local artists.

Open May-Oct. A huge complex just north of the town centre comprised of a motel with standard rooms as well as detached chalets, studios and apartments with more amenities. Standard rooms contain a fridge and coffeemaker, and all of them have balconies with ocean views. Detached units have air-conditioning, private baths, and kitchenettes or full-sized kitchens. Free continental breakfast is available during the shoulder seasons (mid-May through late June and late August through mid-October) for guests in units without kitchens or kitchenettes. Free WiFi. Pets allowed.

Open mid-May through mid-October. If you're looking for a standard chain-hotel experience without anything cutesy, the Riôtel is your best bet. The largest hotel in Percé is one of a small regional chain with five locations throughout the Gaspé Peninsula. All rooms have a hair dryer, fridge, coffeemaker, and iron and ironing board; some also have air conditioning, flat-screen TV, pull-out couch, kitchenette, and ocean view. Suites are also available. The Riôtel boasts a lovely outdoor terrace looking out onto the water — complete with an outdoor pool, spa and firepit — as well as a fitness room, fax and photocopy service, and a free shuttle available on request to and from the VIA Rail station. Handicapped accessible.

Open all year. Located in a residential section of Percé town centre, convenient to all the action but secluded enough for guests to enjoy some peace and quiet, À la Revasse is a sturdy old house with five comfy guest rooms, all of which boast private baths and are decorated in a maritime theme. Here, the Tourist Wharf and all the shops and attractions are just a short walk away — ask the knowledgeable owners for tips; they've lived in Percé their whole lives and know the town inside and out — but you can also just relax on the porch or, if it gets nippy, inside by the fireplace. Breakfast in the morning features homemade local favourites, such as blueberry pancakes and old-fashioned chopped pork creton. There's free WiFi, and free parking in the driveway — or, if you've arrived on the Route Verte, there's a shed out back to store your bike.

Situated a short drive (or a relatively easy 25-minute walk) from Percé town centre in the shadow of Cap-Blanc Lighthouse, this charming gîte is the property of Paulette and Carol and their friendly cat Timinne: the most gracious hosts you could want. Here you have your choice of three rooms with a queen bed and a private bath, or two rooms with a full-size bed and shared bath. Breakfast takes place in an airy dining room with huge picture windows looking onto the sea.

Open seasonally. Run by Daria and Urs, a Swiss couple who summer in Percé, the Gîte du Capitaine is located on a gravel side road off Route 132 at Cap-Blanc, outside of downtown. Here you get your choice of three rooms in the main house, two of which have private baths and all of which come with ocean view, clock radio, hair dryer, luggage rack, robes and slippers, and even a personal iPad computer on request. There's also a detached cottage out back with a private balcony and additional amenities, namely a microwave and tea kettle. Every morning between 08:00 and 09:00, Daria cooks up a changing menu of homemade breakfast entrees served with breakfast Bellinis and homemade jellies; high tea is also served in the afternoon.

Open May-Oct. Au Fil des Saisons falls somewhere between a gîte and a small hotel — unlike most gîtes, breakfast is not served, but these six rooms have far more downhome charm than your average hotel. What you have here is a Victorian-style country inn whose guest rooms are all newly renovated, uniquely decorated in period style, and come with private bath, double bed (plus an additional queen-size bed in two of the six), and WiFi internet — not to mention great views of Percé Rock from its prime location just outside the town centre.

Open all year. Aux Jardins de l'Anse is situated in a rather strange location — an out-of-the-way, almost isolated part of inland L'Anse-à-Beaufils — but it's perfect for those visiting Percé during the winter, a time when, unlike most area hoteliers, owners Odette and Jean-Guy are as busy as any other season. In fact, taking good care of offseason visitors at a time when most services are closed seems to be a major point of pride here, with a long slate of winter activities on offer including dogsledding excursions (q.v.), sleigh rides, and snowmobiling. But Aux Jardins de l'Anse is perfect for the other three seasons too, with lobster fishing excursions in the spring, brilliant colours covering the mountains in the fall, and the gardens that give the place its name providing a summertime floral feast for the eyes and nose. The main house boasts four rooms, all with lovely views either over the gardens or out to the sea in the distance; the "Petite Suite" boasts a queen size bed, private bath and lounge and Internet access while the other three have double beds, shared baths and peaceful sitting areas. There's also a detached chalet with a private terrace, a full-size private bath, and additional amenities such as a refrigerator and barbecue grill. Breakfast comes either as a gourmet five-course meal in the midmorning or as an abbreviated continental breakfast beginning at 06:00: perfect for early-rising hikers hitting the River Trail a short walk away. Website in French only.

Open May-Oct. The imposing St. Michael's Catholic Church which towers next door informs the entire identity of this gîte: the house was constructed a century ago as the home of its priest, and the two common living rooms are decorated with artifacts from the church's history and furnished liberally with period antiques. Le Presbytère is conveniently located to all attractions, yet it's a breath of fresh air for those looking to get away from the hubbub: the pleasant front veranda affords a view of Percé Rock sans crowds of gawking tourists, and there are also a few computers there for those who want to stay connected. The five guest rooms here include "La Familiale", a suite with a panoramic ocean view that sleeps 3 to 5 (perfect for families, hence the name), and "La Chambre du Curé", decorated in warm pink tones and boasting a luxurious queen size bed. Most of the rooms feature shared baths. Michel, the owner, speaks French, English and Spanish and is well-known for going above and beyond in assuring the comfort of his guests — and he cooks up a hearty yet elegant breakfast in the morning, with eggs prepared a different way each day and meats sometimes including wild game sourced from area forests.

Open May-Oct. The Hôtel-Motel du Rocher Percé is another one of those places that falls in the gray area between a gîte and a small hotel. It has 16 rooms, far larger than most gîtes, but the decor boasts far more character than your average hotel, and a hearty country breakfast is served daily. All of the guest rooms here contain a comfy double bed, a chest of drawers, wireless Internet access, and private baths (full bathrooms in most cases; the four second-floor rooms boast private half-baths and one shared full bath for showering). Most rooms also have ocean views and TVs with a remote control. Kitchenette suites and private cottages are available for those staying longer periods (3 or more nights and 6 or more nights, respectively; minimum stay requirements are sometimes waived during the shoulder season). On the ground floor is an art gallery that features solo and group exhibitions by artists from around the Gaspé region; there you can also buy crafts produced by local artisans, such as handmade pottery and fine silkware.

Open all year, with lower prices in effect during the offseason. A charming youth hostel centrally located in a historic farmhouse dating back to 1872, with seven private rooms in the main house as well as four shared dormitories (men's, women's and two mixed) in the barn out back. Three of the private rooms have their own bathroom while the other four split two between them; all are decorated in period style. Those staying in the dormitory can bring their own sleeping bag or rent bedding for $5/night. Guests have access to a communal living room, sunroom, terrace and kitchen. Internet access is available.

Open mid-May through late Sep. Located in the district of Saint-Georges-de-Malbaie, an easy (and lovely) 25-minute drive from Percé town centre, Camping du Cap Rouge is an 85-unit campsite that has it all: a common room and kitchen area with a stove, refrigerator and dishes, a combination bathroom/shower/coin laundry facility, a convenience store out front that sells beer and wine, basketball and volleyball courts, lawn bowling, trout fishing in the stream on the east side of the property, and a full slate of organized activities too. As for the campsites, there are spaces for tents and trailers either oceanside or inland in the woods, and the majority of sites are hooked up to electricity, water and sewer. Even if you don't have your own tent or trailer, du Cap Rouge has you covered: you can rent them (see website for rates)!

Open mid-May through late Oct. This campsite takes full advantage of its prime location a short distance from Percé town centre, boasting a magnificent unobstructed view of Percé Rock from its 125 campsites along the shoreline near White Head. A variety of experiences are to be had at Côte Surprise: about two-thirds of its sites are serviced with modern amenities like electricity and water (along with publicly accessible hookups), but there are also 45 "wilderness camping" sites in a wooded milieu for those who are looking for a more backwoods-style experience — sadly, a relative term at this fairly crowded venue. There are sites for trailers as well, and laundry facilities are available. Cash only.

Open Jun-Sep. This little campground is north of the town centre, behind the majestic Indian Head Rock (Tête d'Indien) — hence its name — and offers a full slate of activities that takes advantage of its off-the-beaten-path location in the wide open spaces: a volleyball court, a horseshoe pit, a private beach, snorkelling, kayaking, and plenty of opportunities for wildlife spotting. As for the campsites themselves, they accommodate both trailers and tents (41 sites between them). "Primitive" tent sites are available for those in search of a more rustic experience, with fire rings, ecosan toilets, and access to common showering and laundry facilities; all the others boast fire rings, electrical and water hookups, and in some cases, private fireplaces and sewer and cable TV hookups. A choice of mountain or ocean views are available, the latter looking onto lovely Plate Island (Île Plate). Tête d'Indien's friendly staff are always on hand to help with any questions you may have about the campground itself or things to do in the area.

The handcrafted work of local artisans is the order of the day at this gift shop in the heart of Percé's town centre: everything from paintings and decorative baubles to stylish, one-of-a-kind clothes and jewellery fashioned from local agate.

True to its name, the stuff that's on offer at La Marinière tends to have a maritime theme: the clothes boast more than their fair share of loud horizontal stripes and anchor motifs, and Marie-Josée Tommi's carved gannet figurines are a hot seller as well. Handbags, artisan jewellery, and homey souvenirs complete the picture.

A native Gaspésienne, Mylène Henry's local landscape scenes are realized in a brightly coloured, cartoonlike, somewhat surreal aesthetic that is shared with her work as an illustrator of children's books — the other half of her artistic career. In addition to her original paintings, Mylène's gallery at the south end of Percé town centre sells copies of those books, as well as postcards, greeting cards, and calendars adorned with her work. Website in French only.

Though Martin Boucher Arsenault now runs about a half-dozen Wazo boutiques all over the Gaspé Peninsula and elsewhere in Quebec, the Percé location, located in the heart of downtown, is the original. Art jewellery is the name of the game here: the artist draws on his mixed Indigenous/Acadian heritage as well as forms found in the natural world to create earrings, pendants, bracelets, and other pieces in bold, unique designs that are respectful of the diversity of source materials he uses (gold and silver, semiprecious stones native to the area, even coral and starfish found on local beaches). You can choose from a range of preexisting designs in stock — the "Peace & Love" medallion, commissioned by Cirque du Soleil founder Guy Laliberté, is undoubtedly the best-known of these — or Martin will work with you to custom-design a piece of your very own. Website in French only.

This is where renowned artisan Pascal Riopel offers unique, high-quality cabinets and other rustic furniture, handmade onsite using only traditional designs and methods — hence the name of his store, which in English translates to something like "the workshop of yesteryear". You can also pick up charming folk art, handmade pottery, and vintage tchotchkes in an appropriately rustic setting about midway between L'Anse-à-Beaufils and Percé town centre. Website in French only.

At his workshop and boutique in L'Anse-à-Beaufils, Serge Bourget sells unique gifts that make a distinctive statement: handmade sand-casted and stone-casted items such as picture frames, carvings, and decorative baubles produced with materials he finds on local beaches.

A graphic designer by trade, Margot Mérette's passion for painting and sculpture ignited during her college days at UQAM and has now come to full fruition in her second career. At her studio in Barachois, she'll show you some selections from her collection of acrylic paintings — dreamlike fantasy scenes that shine in vibrant, radiant colours and celebrate the harmonious cooperation of man and nature — and you'll take a walk through an outdoor sculpture garden, a "lost paradise" (in the words of her website) of carved driftwood and whimsical works in ceramic. Website in French only.