Municipality in Castile and León, Spain
Photo: Coralma*, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Astorga is a town in the Castile and León region of northern Spain, 43 km southwest of León city. It has a well-preserved old centre and is a stop-off on the pilgrimage route to Santiago. In 2021 the population was 10,600.
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Catedral de Santa María
The cathedral was built in fits and starts from 1471, so to its original Gothic design were added the neoclassical cloister, the Baroque towers and Renaissance portico and high altar.
The church gets overlooked. It was completed in 1741.
Palacio Episcopal de Astorga
When the original palace burned down in the 19th century, Antoni Gaudí was commissioned to design its replacement, and work began in 1890. It's a pseudo-medieval (almost Disney) castle in grey granite, but unfinished at the death of its sponsoring bishop, whereupon Gaudí fell out with the town council and stomped off the job. Completed in 1915, it now hosts a museum about the pilgrimage route.
Childhood home of the poet Panero (1909–1962), who started out as a Socialist but during the Civil War became a leading Falangist.
La Ergastula
Exhibiting archaeological findings from Roman and Medieval times, in what may have been a Roman jail. Daily at 11:00 and 17:00 they lead a guided tour (for an extra €4) of Ruta Romano, of other remains around town such as the military camp, the sewers, two baths, forum and several mosaics.
Built as Romanesque but has a Baroque interior. The town council met here until the Ayuntamiento was built in 1683.
19th century neo-Gothic style.
Showing the city's chocolate-making from medieval times to the present, with old machinery. Signage is only in Spanish.
Great reviews for its classic Spanish cuisine, naturally including Serrano ham.
Splendid trad fare, such as cocido maragato stew.
Good hotel restaurant.
Central, but poor scores for service and value.
Wonderful little hotel in an 18th-century ducal residence. Some street noise.
Efficient stylish hotel.
Pleasant chain hotel facing the town hall.
By bus
Alsa buses run from Madrid Estación Sur every couple of hours, taking 5–6 hours via Valladolid. Two per day start from Madrid-Barajas Airport T4.
By train
From Madrid-Charmartin you usually change at León. One train a day is direct, taking 3 hours via Segovia, Valladolid, Palencia, León and Veguellina, continuing to Ponferrada.
By pilgrimage
El Camino is a network of pilgrimage routes from various European cathedral cities, converging on Santiago de Compostela in north-eastern Spain.
The town is small and walkable. Taxi operators include Juan M García (+34 636 735010), Vicente Prieto (+34 608 478980), Alejandro Alvarez (+34 633 525661) and Quintana Martinez (+34 639 427021).
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La Virgen del Camino · Regional · LEN
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