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City in Egypt
Photo: Francisco Anzola, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Alexandria (pronounced al-ig-ZAN-dree-uh ; Arabic: الإسكندرية / اسكندرية al-Iskandariyya / Eskendereyya ) is Egypt's second largest city (5.2 million people in 2018), its largest seaport, and the country's window onto the Mediterranean Sea. The city is a faded shadow of its former glorious cosmopolitan self, but still worth a visit for its many cultural attractions – particularly the new Library of Alexandria – and still-palpable glimpses of its past.
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Set on the tip of the Anfushi/Pharos promontory, looking back over the eastern harbour and downtown Corniche. It was built by Mameluke Sultan Abdul-Nasser Qa'it Bay in 1477 CE, by re-cycling the stone of the ruined lighthouse. It tried (with limited success) to defend the city against invaders, from crusaders to Napoleon, and was in military use as late as 1882, when the British bombarded it. There are two entrances and admissions. West, facing your approach along the Harbour mall, is the ground-floor Maritime Museum, which is of little interest. (Its collection continues in a building on the mall.) Come round to the south flank facing the Corniche for the main entrance into the Citadel. There's a fortified courtyard, then a 4-storey bastion.
Mustafa Kamel Cemetery/Tombs
The cemetery includes four tombs dating from the 2nd century BC, all of which are in excellent condition and beautifully decorated. The cemetery bears the name of Mostafa Kamel, one of 20th century Egyptian politics' greatest legends. It was he who pronounced the famous phrase: "If I were not born an Egyptian, I would like to be an Egyptian." As of October 2025, the site is closed for renovations.
These catacombs were probably carved out to be a single wealthy family's mausoleum, and later expanded to take other elite funerals, from the 2nd to 4th century CE. The name "Kom el-Shoqafa" means "mound of shards" as people brought offerings to the dead here in earthenware bowls, then smashed the empties before returning home. They are composed of a ground level construction that probably served as a funerary chapel, a deep spiral stairway and three underground levels (the lowest now flooded by groundwater) for the funeral rituals and entombment. The place was discovered in 1900 when the ground gave way under a donkey. Built as a separate (and older) catacomb, the Hall of Caracalla became linked when energetic tomb-robbers tunnelled through. It seems to have been a burial place for the Roman emperor's horses, as horse bones predominate. No, not the donkey's. The catacombs are interesting for their plan and for their decoration, as the last of the pharonic burials transitioned into Grecian and Roman styles. But if you've seen the richly decorated burial chambers around Luxor, this one will suffer by comparison.
An ancient monument, this 25-m-high granite column was constructed in honor of the Emperor Diocletian in AD 297. The confined area where the column stands also has other ruins and sculptures such as the Serapium oracle. Also beside this area is a very big shopping center for cloth and furniture called "El-Saa3a," where you can find many types of cloth or clothes.
Roman amphitheatre
"Kom el-Dikka" means "pile of rubble" - so much for the grandeur of the Roman Empire. In Ptolemaic times this area was the Park of Pan, a pleasure garden surrounded by villas and baths. Highlights built in the 2nd century CE are the Villa of the Birds, with fine mosaics, and Egypt's only Roman amphitheatre. This has 13 semicircular tiers made of white and grey marble, with seats for up to 800 spectators, galleries and sections of mosaic-flooring. Excavations continue, and in 2010 a Ptolemaic temple was unearthed. You can see the amphitheatre well enough just by peering through the railings, but you'll have to pay to get inside to see the mosaics and other small artefacts.
Built in 1892 by Abbas II of Egypt Abbas Hilmi Pasha, the last khedive (Ottoman viceroy) of Egypt. One of the palace buildings, the Haramlek, now contains a casino on the ground floor and a museum of royal relics on the upper levels, while the Salamlek has been converted into a luxury hotel (see Sleep). Parts of the extensive gardens (over 80 ha/200 acres) are open to the public. There is an entrance fee for the park.
Ismail Monument
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier honoring its military. Besides its meaning it is a picturesque neoclassical monument worth a photo during the day or when illuminated in the evening. The structure was built in 1927 to 1938 as a memorial to Khedive Ismail. After the revolution its dedication was changed.
Presidential Palace
Admire the exterior but it's now part of a naval base and not open to visitors.
Remains of a city established by Pharaoh Ptolemy II Philadelphus between 280 and 270 BCE, with two monuments that were partly restored in the 1930s. One is a tower that has been used in the reconstruction of the lighthouse of Alexandria and the other is the remains of a temple of Osiris that is also believed to be the last resting place of Mark Antony and Cleopatra.
Small but absorbing, well-presented museum with more than 1800 archaeological pieces. The basement is devoted to Prehistoric and Pharonic times, first floor to the Graeco-Roman period, second floor to the Coptic and Islamic era. Especially interesting are artefacts raised during underwater excavations: there's a sense of a new window opening on history.
A history museum with a vast collection mostly dating from the 3rd century BC to the 3rd century CE, spanning the Ptolemaic and Roman periods. The square in front of it is a popular place for taking marriage pictures and as a hang-out for young people in the evenings.
Mostly modern and Orientalist paintings
Royal jewelry from the Egyptian monarchy of 1805 to 1952 displayed in the former palace of Princess Fatma Al-Zahra'.
Museum in the house of the poet Cavafy (1863–1933) where he spent the last 25 years of his life. Closed as of 02/2024.
The museum was inaugurated in 2015. On two levels with three rooms each the museum presents manuscripts, but also paintings, ceramics, sculptures and miniatures with calligraphic scripts.
Built in 1775 by Algerians, the mosque was built over the tomb of the famous 13th century Sufi saint, Ahmed Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi. The walls of the mosque are dressed in artificial stone, while the minaret, on the south side, stands at 73 m.
Built as a church dedicated to the Saint Athanasius in 370 AD and was converted into a mosque following the Muslim conquest of Egypt.
معبد إلياهو هانبي اليهودي
There has been a synagogue at this site since 1348, the current Neo-Gothic building has been standing since 1850. The interior can be visited on some weekdays in the morning.
كنيس منشا
Built in 1872.
Alexandrina
A huge modern library and research centre constructed on the site of the ancient Library of Alexandria. Wonderful display of ancient texts of the Middle East. Includes four museum areas, exhibition space, and a planetarium. Regular tours in English and other languages. The Antiquities Museum costs (EGP 100 extra and is particularly well worth visiting if you're into artefacts from the Pharonic to the Islamic period.
The Corniche stretches from the Citadel in the west about 30 km along the seaside to the east. Its core is a 15 km promenade along the bay dotted with restaurants, markets and historic sights. Take one of the red double decker buses that start from Al-Anfushi Bus station and enjoy the ride along the promenade.
Though the gardens are a part of the more than three hundred and fifty acre grounds (61 ha) of the large royal home known as the Muntazah Palace, the Montazah Royal Gardens take up more than half of the property. Montazah Royal Gardens are situated along the shore as well, which means access to the lovely beaches and warm Mediterranean Sea waters nearby. The Montazah Royal Gardens are a bit unique where city parks and public spaces are concerned as they are rigorously landscaped, and well-stocked with benches and wading or swimming pools that are open for the public to enjoy.
This movie theater in Alexandria is owned by the same people who run the Renaissance theaters in Cairo. There are three screens, with surround sound and all options. Midnight shows are daily.
10 screens, 3D movies available.
Built in 1898 and used during the British occupation, the Alexandria Sporting Club is one of the oldest sporting clubs in Egypt. Today, the golf course stands on 97 feddans, 97 percent of which constitutes the total club area. It is a flat course with tricky bunkers and can be played by beginners as well as experts. The club also features four restaurants, the Club House Restaurant being the most luxurious, and the Happy Land restaurant serving the children's playground. It also offers party catering.
International Hockey Stadium, many swimming pools, a number of soccer fields, two running tracks. Members and guests only.
Yes, "Coffe". Great place on the Corniche, with a decent pizza and chairs in front of the café for "enjoying" the traffic and view.
Well known kushari joint, value for money.
Fast food: pizza and its Arabic equivalent fateer.
Great place for seafood.
Legendary joint for fuul and falafel, clean, friendly and inexpensive. According to a personal memory by an Alexandrian lady it was in Jewish ownership and called Binyamin before the Revolution of 1952.
Takeaway only branch of the Egyptian cuisine fast food chain.
Takeaway and eat-in branch of the Egyptian cuisine fast food chain.
Takeaway only branch of the Egyptian cuisine fast food chain.
Fast food restaurant with Levantine and Egyptian plates. Slightly more expensive than Gad.
Popular Egyptian chain for shwarms, similar grills and set meals of kebab, kofta, fries and salad.
Good fresh Middle Eastern food.
It is now part of La Veranda, see below.
Café and restaurant of the French Institute (Institut français) serving alcohol. There is a larger quiet outdoor seating area and a small indoor area. In May 2022, the restaurant reopened under a new name after a change of operator and renovations.
Historic, posh cafe and restaurant in the heart of Alexandria dating back to 1905, this is where the creme de la creme of Alexandrian society like singer Om Kolthoum and Cavafy used to hang around. The glory days are long over, but Trianon remains famous for what is said to be the country's best om ali, a rich Egyptian take on bread pudding.
Tikka Grill
Delicious Egyptian food, with views of the harbour and Fort Qait Bey. Try the shish kebab and the wara' el enab (stuffed vine leaves). There is a second restaurant of this chain in 426 El-Gaish Rd., Luran.
Popular place for Egyptian meat and seafood. Their outlet at Carrefour City Center has closed.
The "Mermaid of Alexandria" is a local legend frequented by both Durrell and Cavafy, but alas, it has fallen far since its glory days. The views are still amazing, and the Greek motifs in the gilded friezes and stenciled frescoes give some character, but the food is, despite the Greek names on the menu, almost entirely Arabized: order souvlaki and you'll get kebab.
Possibly the best Italian restaurant in town, serving pizza and pasta since 1979.
Two-storey restaurant, now part of THM chain. First floor has grilled meats featuring their famous Ibn al-Balad fattah. The second floor serves seafood. Both get great scores for food, service and ambiance.
Very central downtown, near the Metropole, Cecil and Sofitel hotels. Within, most of the floor space is the cafe-patisserie Jardin Delices. About a quarter is La Veranda restaurant, with good European/East Med cuisine. Serves alcohol. Atmospheric with the old posters, but nowadays not a spy or dilapidated duchess to be found.
A reasonably priced restaurant with Spanish cuisine. Try the Beef Madrid.
Nice restaurant with veranda.
Greek Club
The Greek Club (ENOA: Ellenika Nautikos Olimnos Alexandria) is a private club but with two public restaurants, and something of an Alex institution. Ride the elevator up to Olive Island Restaurant on the third floor: the place is dark and piled high with old furniture. So ride back down to the second floor which has White and Blue Restaurant out on the terrace, overlooking the eastern harbour. A few civilities like "Kalispera sas" go a long way as they clearly don't speak Greek themselves. Traditional East Med specialities such as kebabs, stews, and lots of fish. Clean, and inexpensive by western standards.
Coffee and stuff are only just okay for the price, you come for the laidback atmosphere and the wi-fi.
Posh cafe and dessert restaurant, you're paying for the ambiance.
Relaxing place on the waterfront.
Friendly inexpensive place for food and drink, plus shisha in the garden.
Cafe and small restaurant of the Institut français. Large and calm outdoor seating area, small indoor seating area. Entry via the security check of the Institut français.
Spacious cafe and restaurant on a rooftop offering shishas.
Cheerful bar with food a short block off the main downtown street. "Atmospheric", meaning the building looks derelict, but persevere.
Little and nice bar with good view to the sea. Prices on beer are moderate; hard liquor is more expensive. At night the upper floor has a dance floor featuring Western and Arabic music. The bar is frequented by foreign (particularly American) Arabic language students at the Teaching Arabic as a Foreign Language (TAFL) Center at Alexandria University.
Better known among travellers as the Cap d'Or and one of Alexandria's oldest bars.
4-dorm hostel just at the sea front with very friendly staff. Not the quietest place. There used to be just one shower for the whole hostel. The installation of a second is planned for December 2021. Shared kitchen and spacious common area, smoking permitted in one half of it. Warm water. Lockable drawers under the beds, locks are provided. Sockets at the beds, but no lamps. Wi-Fi isn't very stable. 24/7 reception, hostel is in the 2nd floor.
A decent budget option and close to the sea and Bibliotheca Alexandrina.
Decent choice with impressive (smoking area) lobby and nice staircase, elevator also available. The rooms are clean. The bathroom is clean and has warm water. WiFi is free.
The Normandy hotel is good value for money, but a little run down. It is a one-floor hotel on the Corniche, with unbeatable views of the city's Eastern Harbor. It is the building behind the famous Cecil Hotel, on the fourth floor. The rooms are well-appointed, large and clean, but spare. The bathrooms are down the hall, and also clean. Staff are very friendly, helpful, and honest. The staff speak both English and Arabic, with limited knowledge of a few other random languages.
On the fifth floor right at the Corniche. Great views from the lobby. The rooms are just ok, but the bathroom however is new and comfortable. If this is full, try Triomphe, or vice-versa.
Cheap downtown hotel, cleaning erratic but value for what you're paying.
Mansheya, downtown, sea side Corniche 1st Floor, in the heart of Alexandria, very new and clean amazing sea view.
A no-frills two-star hotel with private bathrooms and hot water, popular with overland trucks setting off down into the heart of Africa. Not far from the shore and within walking distance from the center of town. Watch out for bedbugs. It wasn't open in 2021.
Modern concrete block with 63 basic rooms, some overlooking the sea. Aircon, cable TV. Not far from the Alexandria Library.
Old-style hotel with 32 rooms and the traditional Egyptian reek of cigarette smoke. Looks onto the beach restaurant strip.
Upscale resort hotel scores highly for comfort and service. With private beach, the public Med beaches are filthy.
Boxy modern place facing Montaza Royal Palace, comfort, cleanliness and internet erratic.
Decent mid- to upmarket hotel, clean and well-run.
This is their other city offering. "Hilton Kings Ranch" is away out towards Borg El Arab Airport.
Opened in 1902, this is one of Alexandria's two grand old hotels (the Cecil is the other). It has been partly renovated, keeping the turn-of-the-century style. It's on Alexandria's main street, handy for sightseeing but lower floor rooms (especially at the back) can be noisy. The food is nothing special but the views from the rooftop restaurant make it special.
It's at the far east end of the Corniche. Small, shabby and in need of renovation and a good clean. The beach (across a very busy road) is grubby.
Alexandria's other grand old hotel, many of whose rooms are named after famous guests like Agatha Christie and Winston Churchill. Great central location, clean and comfy, helpful staff. The old wire-cage lift conjures period charm but it's basically a modern hotel, though some furnishings (e.g. bathroom) are kinda tired. Good sound-proofing, which you'll appreciate given the swirling Corniche traffic and many wedding parties held here. Decent Jardin restaurant for breakfast but the Chinese restaurant has closed. Service sometimes slow.
The km 23 in the address indicates how far out this is, in the part-built, part abandoned Alex West district. Visitors have enjoyed the clean spacious rooms (with a/c) and away-from-the-city feel, but there's some construction noise.
Good for general and tourist literature in different languages.
Mid-range shopping mall, mostly clothing but with IT section. Plus cinema and food court.
Big modern open-air mall with many shops, restaurants, cinema and a court for video games and bowling.
Small mall in the tract east of Montazah, has some restaurants.
By the Four Seasons Hotel, see #Sleep. Large mall with upscale shopping, 10 cinemas and large food court.
Popular mall with cinema and coffee shops.
If this is "city centre", you'll need camels to reach "edge of town". It's a big mall with huge hypermarket, coffee shops and cinemas. Take a taxi to get here.
By train
Train is the easiest way to travel between central Cairo and Alexandria, with 30 services a day.
By bus
Several bus companies offer a bus service into Alexandria at a very low price range: EGP 100-300 from Cairo. Buses are air-conditioned and come complete with a hostess trolley service.
By minibus
You can take a minibus from Cairo for about EGP 140 (October 2025).” to find the right vehicle. The minibuses will leave when full.
By car
There are two roads between Cairo and Alexandria, both taking 3 hours. The usual cautions for driving in Egypt apply; see Egypt#By car.
By boat
Alex remains a major sea port, but all international passenger services are axed because of this region's turmoil and loss of tourist traffic.
By taxi
Alexandria's yellow and black taxis are a good way to travel in the city, and a cheap one as well.
By tram
Alexandria has a creaky, slow but very cheap tram system that dates back to 1860 and looks the part — it's the oldest one still running in Africa.
By bus
There are a variety of local bus services which have improved significantly in the past few years, but they are rather confusing for those who haven't lived in Alexandria for a while.
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