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Argentina claims to be "home of tango", but Uruguay was equally important on the development of this music and dance style: one of the most famous tango songs, La Cumparsita (which refers to Montevideo Carnival's cumparsas) was written by an Uruguayan composer and premiered in Montevideo, and the passport Carlos Gardel held at the time of his death stated he was born in Tacuarembó, Uruguay (although France and Argentina also claim to be his motherland). Contrary to the extremely coded and exhibitionist milongas of Buenos Aires, its Montevidean counterparts are laid back, boast a great level of dance and are almost solely frequented by locals. Hoy Milonga Montevideo lists the action, which takes place in dedicated places, bars or public squares.
The square at the end of 18 de Julio Ave., with the latter being the main commercial artery of the city. On the last Saturday of September, all the museums and historical places of interest around the Plaza Independencia open for free to the public. There is also a large "Murga," or a traditional South American parade in which all the Uruguayan political parties take part. The event is known as El Día del Patrimonio, the Day of Heritage. On the middle of the square there is a statue of general José Artigas, and under it, his mausoleum.
Eastern side of Plaza Independencia. Once South America's highest building, the 95-m-high Art Deco building Palacio Salvo still dominates Montevideo's skyline. In the past there used to be an observation deck that could be accessed for free.
This large monument in the Plaza Independencia pays tribute to José Gervasio Artigas, one of the heroes of the Uruguayan Independence. Under the monument is the mausoleum, which is open on the weekends. It contains an urn with his ashes and two honor guards keeping watch.
Estévez Palace
The Palacio Estévez was the office building of Uruguayan presidents until 1985. Today it is a museum of the Uruguayan presidency.
The current presidential office, next to the former. The Executive Tower was first planned as a courthouse in the 1960s, the project was halted several times until the house was finalized as the presidential office in 2009.
Glass-framed office building at the western end of the square with a terrifying number of air conditioning units.