
Group of islands in Cornwall, England
Photo: Richard Knights, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
The Isles of Scilly (Cornish: Enesek Syllan) is a small archipelago of islands in the Atlantic Ocean, 25 miles off the coast of Cornwall at the south-western tip of the United Kingdom. The main island, and obvious base for visitors, is St Mary's. Four of the other islands (known as "Off Islands") are inhabited: best known is Tresco for its Abbey Gardens. All the islands are scenic, and collectively they've been designated an "Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty".
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It's an ill wind: the gales of winter 1962 unearthed Romano-British remains, so where to house them? This museum, opened in 1967, displays the history of the islands. Pirates, longitude, wildlife, it's all here.
These are the walls of an unfinished artillery fort built to the east of the harbour in 1552-53. Building was abandoned when they decided instead to fortify the headland to the west, which became The Garrison.
Star Castle
The Spanish Armada was defeated in 1588, but they might come back for revenge, so fortification began here (abandoning the less-well-sited Harry's Walls). Enter the curtain wall via the Gatehouse; the powder magazine here has a free exhibition on the history. A circuit along the walls is a pleasant one hour walk, past artillery emplacements and redoubts; mostly firm easy going but some rough spots. Imposing Hugh House was the officers' quarters. The core of the Garrison, a stout Vauban-style bastion, is now the Star Castle Hotel.
Burial Chamber dates from the Bronze Age, as the gradual flooding of Ennor forced inhabitants onto higher ground. It was empty when first excavated in 1900. St Mary's has some 80 similar "entrance graves", e.g. at nearby Innisidgen and at Porth Hellick Down on the east tip, but Bant's Cairn is the finest. A little lower down the hill is Halangy Down Ancient Village, occupied from the Iron Age into Roman times, with a prehistoric terraced field system. The cairn and ancient village are at the north end of St Mary's, the bus runs to the top of Telegraph Rd. They're always open, free.
Impressive botanical garden with a range of Mediterranean and sub-tropical plants growing healthily outdoors. Created in the 19th century in the ruins of a Benedictine Abbey, with tall hedges and landscaping as windbreaks. Includes "Valhalla", a collection of sailing ship figureheads.
This coastal gun tower was built by Oliver Cromwell in 1651-1652 on a promontory to guard the anchorage between Bryher and Tresco. It is administered by English Heritage.
A ruined artillery fort, probably built circa 1550 in the reign of King Edward VI, but named for King Charles by the Royalists who held out against Cromwell in these islands (with a spot of piracy on the side). It was badly sited and not much use, so its masonry was used to build Cromwell's Castle nearby.
is open all year and welcomes non-members. It's a nine-hole course, so 18-hole matches go round twice (5942 yards, par 73, record 66). The clubhouse serves food, drink and fine views; evening meals only summer Friday & Saturday.
Good pub serving notably decent food.
Good popular pub and eating place, serves St Austell Ales. It's named for the two infamous nearby rocks with lighthouses. The Wolf is midway between Cornwall and IOS - there's a fissure in it where strong winds make a howling noise. The Bishop way out to the west is the very last scrap of land of the UK; it may once have looked like a bishop's mitre but no-one really knows.
Restaurant with tea garden terrace.
Every traditional British coastal town has a pub which looks fit to be the haunt of crusty old sea dogs, with nautical decorations that look unchanged for the past 50 years. This is the one on Scilly. Do not expect any frills! The Ales of Scilly brands are very popular.
Nice view over the bay, Skinner's Ale on tap, and a popular Sunday carvery (Su noon-2PM & 6-8:30PM, booking advised).
The only pub on St Mary's away from Hugh Town.
Always stock a good range of real ales. In 19th-century row of cottages, with rooms B&B.
Harbour View Bar
Close to the campsite and noted for the Friday night fish and chips (plus Monday in summer) and double-decker crab sandwiches. Serves Proper Job and Doom Bar Bitter. 3 self-catering units available here. Fraggle Rock is the islet in the channel here, looking north to Cromwell's Castle on Tresco.
Good quality bread and pastries.
Good range of real ales.
Famous for its home-made Cornish pasties - they soon sell out.
A 9-acre camp site with facilities which include toilet blocks, hot showers, washing up facilities, laundry, supplies shop and a few electrical hookups (must be reserved in advance). Plus self-catering cottages.
Well-run comfy small hotel in Hugh Town open mid Mar to mid Oct.
38 luxurious bedrooms in 16th-century castle - the "star" refers to the Vauban-style fortifications. Also cottage accommodation within 4 acres of gardens. Two restaurants (non-residents welcome, reservations essential): the conservatory majors on fish, the main castle dining room has a wider selection and is better designed for defensive musket-fire against invaders. Excellent cuisine so half-board is pricey but worth it. Other facilities include an indoor heated swimming pool, tennis court and golf. A courtesy minibus runs between hotel, harbour, town and airport. Check-in your luggage at Penzance ferry terminal or the airport and it will go straight to your room.
Great views over Tresco channel. Showers, washer/dryer, dish-washing facilities, phone charging and gas cylinder exchange. Sleeps around a hundred, spread over 5 fields. Open April-Sept, booking essential July & Aug. Camping with own tent £11 ppn, hire of set-up bell tent (sleeps 4) £500 per week.
Chic hotel open mid-Mar to mid-Oct with 25 suites looking onto the ocean. Fine dining, B&B tariff also available. The art collection includes Newlyn and St Ives great names such as Hepworth. Owned by the Dorrien Smith family, who also own Tresco.
Four-star rated campsite, right by the beach. Facilities include toilets, hot and cold water basins, coin-operated showers and hair-dryers, baby-changing facilities and washing-up sinks. Capacity 50 pitches for 100 campers, spread over the small fields of an old flower farm. Dogs only by prior arrangement, and never in school holidays. Open April-Sept, booking essential Whitsun and mid-June-Aug. Camping £12 ppn. There's also a small chalet, sleeps two, no running water but it's near the camp block, £250 per week.
Chic hotel open mid-April to Oct. Various spa treatments, but if the island itself doesn't improve your mental wellbeing, you may be beyond the reach of sea-salt scrubs and warm oils, however locally- and ethically-sourced.
A campsite that makes ice cream! Facilities include showers and a drying room. Fresh produce is available from the farm. Also has 3 self-catering cottages.
The only B&B on St Agnes, with just three rooms. Has a little cafe attached which uses as much locally grown produce as possible. Pizza night is Saturday, takeaway available if pre-ordered.
Self-catering in the Glebe Barn (sleeps 4) and the Crow's Nest and Orchard Flats (both sleep two, adults only). The Parsonage no longer does B&B.
By boat
By plane
There are flights year-round to the Isles of Scilly from Land's End and Newquay, Monday to Saturday. In winter when the ferry doesn't sail, this is your only way in.
By helicopter
There are year-round flights to the islands from a heliport just off the A30 at Jelbert Way, Penzance flying with
Between the islands
Small boats run from the quay at Hugh town on St Mary's to each of the inhabited islands.
Around the Off Islands
Walk. The Off Islands are small and have good lanes so cycling is easy; bike hire is available on all islands.
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