Edirne

This was built 1435 / 36 as part of a Mevlevi dervish complex but later became a stand-alone mosque. It has beautiful tile work, especially in the mihrab, probably by the "Masters of Tabriz" who decorated the mosque in Bursa and later the Üç Şerefeli mosque in Edirne. Some of the wall decoration has been whitewashed over, and the building has needed multiple repairs after earthquakes: the minaret was rebuilt in 1957. It's in a grubby neighbourhood where children pester for baksheesh.

Bulgarian Orthodox church built in 1869.

Bulgarian Orthodox church on a basilica pattern, opened in 1880 and still in use. Usually locked except for services but the caretaker might let you in. Ask also to see the upstairs museum, and (if he seems amenable) to climb the bell tower.

The 19th century house is a major Baha'i shrine; the religion's founder, Baháʼu'lláh, lived here for four years during his Ottoman exile.

a historic stone bridge across the river Tunca

historic stone bridge across the river Meriç, with some restaurants (also with outdoor seating and river view) on both sides

historic caravansaray with a magnificent courtyard, now a café and hotel

on the island is an arena for oil-wrestling, with statues of past champions.

(Adalet Kasrı) by Fatih Bridge is a sturdy square tower, the last intact remnant of the palace.

and cemetery are 100 m right / east as you come off Fatih Bridge. Some 30,000 soldiers are interred here, who fell in the 1913 siege of Edirne.

north of the bridge is just scraps. It was built 1450-1475 and (you'll have to use your imagination) the seat of power of the Ottoman Empire. Even when the capital moved to Constantinople it was still a grand summer retreat and hunting lodge. But from 1718 it suffered neglect, earthquake, fire, military occupation, and finally in 1878 an ammunition depot was deliberately blown up to prevent capture. The kitchens have been restored. It's intended to build a conference hall around the Panorama Pavilion, which would be a total ersatz re-construction, and since 2018 the area has been closed off. You see enough from the street.

downstream is another bridge and causeway link from downtown.

is reached from Sarayiçi by following the road west 1 km, and from downtown by going northwest on Horozlu Bayır Sk onto the causeway (light traffic only) over another river island. The Health Museum is the only reason to linger here.

This complex was founded by Sultan Bayezid II in 1484. As well as the hospital there was a medical school, mosque, guesthouse, almshouse and Turkish baths. Initially it was a general medical and surgical hospital but it came to specialise in mental health. It followed enlightened holistic methods before these were taken up in the west: instead of locking patients into cells with shackles, they used meditative music, fragrances and flower gardens. It's been incorporated into Trakya University, and the museum displays miniatures from Ottoman medical textbooks and models of patients.

is on the highway to Kapıkule, so from downtown simply follow D100 west. It was built in the 13th century and extended and rebuilt in later centuries. What you see now is a 19th century re-build, pedestrian-only, with D-100 on a modern bridge alongside. Gazi Mihal Mosque is on the west bank.

A vast hilltop redoubt and fortress built from 1829 against Russian attack, though its finest hour was in the Balkan Wars of 1913. It had little value against 20th century weaponry and fell derelict. Restoration has been under way since 2011, with no end in sight, so the fortress remains fenced off, though you can still access Hıdır Baba park.

is a bosky park along the west riverbank, a popular weekend picnic spot.

is not where you'd expect to find the city's main railway station. But the first railway from Istanbul to Europe ran further south then wound up the Maritsa Valley, looped into the station at Karaağaç then continued up the valley towards Bulgaria. Once the Treaty of Lausanne defined the river as the border, trains (such as the Orient Express) had to enter Greece twice in transit between Turkey and Bulgaria. Not until the 1970s a new track was laid, leaving this place cut off; it became part of the university in 1998. By the old station is a small museum, a wooded park and sculpture garden, and a monument to the Treaty.