City in Catalonia, Spain
Photo: Gordito1869, CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Figueres is a small city in Catalonia, Spain, with a population of 40,000. It is the seat of the Alt Empordà county in the Girona Province and has a wealth of history spanning many centuries that has been preserved and shown in several museums in the area and in the compact Old Town. Being the last major town before the Spanish/French border, it serves as a fantastic base to explore the upper Empordá region that is awash in great food, wines, and beaches that represent the Catalan culture. It is a stage in the Catalan Way of St. James.
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This large museum is mostly devoted to the work of Salvador Dalí, who spent many years in his later life designing and living in it; the museum itself is Dalí's single largest work. Depending on your level of interest, a visit to the museum can be anywhere from one hour to most of the day. The central building was the old town theater, long vacant after being bombed during the Spanish Civil War. Even art fans who are otherwise lukewarm to Dalí's general artistry can find visiting here a rewarding experience, and may come out with new appreciation for the eccentric genius. The museum also contains displays of other Catalan artists. Many major works were removed by Spanish authorities shortly after his death and displayed in the Prado, in Madrid.
The number of visitors is limited and only tickets not sold online can be purchased at the ticket office. It is recommended to purchase tickets online in advance (at least one day before, since same-day tickets are not available online). You can have an audioguide for €1 per room--although Dalí's original concept was to not allow any guides explaining anything to visitors: they should understand as much as they're able to without help. Crowds are large during the summer months. Weekends are best avoided as the experience will not be pleasant. Also to be avoided are cloudy days in the summer, as those on a beach holiday will inevitably make a trip to the museum.
A museum dedicated to toys with more than 4,500 toys from many periods in history. It has toys from famous Spanish people, including Dalí.
It is the regional museum for Empordà on the Rambla in the centre of Figueres. The displays range from archaeological objects like ancient Greek vases found in the area to Baroque and 20th-century paintings. The modern art collection pales in comparison to the Dalí Theater Museum, but it contains a few works of interest among many more mediocre pieces for art fans making an unhurried visit to Figueres.
A museum of various technology through the ages that has grown out of the personal collection of a couple started in 1979. On the 2nd floor is an absolutely breathtaking collection of antique typewriters. Opens only for a few hours depending on season.
Saint Farran Castle
Billed as the largest castle in Europe, this is the primary reason why Figueres became the prominent town in the region as it acted as the commercial base for the castle which was built in the mid 18th century. It has a long history of being a prison (from the north side, you can see the new provincial prison across the highway), and was occupied by Napoleon's forces. Visiting it is a pleasant 10-minute walk straight up from the Dalí Museum. Walking around the perimeter of the castle is a flat, 3-km walk that gives a splendid view over the Empordà Plain out to the sea. Locals regularly come up to castle to walk or run around it as it is free to walk around and always 'open'. The interior is also viewable with hours that change depending on the season of the year and reasonably priced (€4 for an adult). Additionally there is a café inside the castle for those looking to relax.
As an homage to their native son, the town of Figueres placed a surrealist tribute to him at the base of the Rambla. His face is stretched out and distorted when seen flat on the ground, but when viewed in the convex mirror next to it, it appears correct. Anyone who arrives from the train or bus station will pass this on the way to the museum and it makes for a free photo opportunity and introduction to the world of Dalí.
Figueres was settled along a river aptly named the Riera de Figueres. The boundaries of this river formed the core of the town that grew a good deal once construction on the aforementioned castle took place. In the early 19th century, the river was covered and became what is today the Rambla, which explains why the Rambla is such a central part to the town and a haven for those wanting to sit in the shade of the massive trees that line it. The streets retain their old charm and while not as historic as the pedestrian areas in Barcelona or Girona, Figueres is quite pleasant to walk around with any number of big brands shops mixed in with local businesses. Depending on the time of the year, there are often fairs or local vendors selling in the Rambla and main squares in the area, which provide additional entertainment.
This historic square was named 'square of the potatoes' as it used to be where the Farmer's market for vegetables was held up until the 1950s. These days, this is a quiet square flanked by large shade trees and the façades of 17th-century buildings. While tranquil during the day, it is rather lively at nights, especially during the summer due to the two bar/cafés that have opened on the square. While the main local "scene" is still up on Plaça del Sol due to the row of bars and parking lot up there, many come to this square as it is a more pleasant atmosphere in the pedestrian zone where one can meet with friends and sit outside for a drink during the hot summer months.
A proper café with a wide selection of sweet items and breads, as well as comfortable seating, in a relaxed environment.
Nice pastisseria; wide selection of bakery and confectionery. Good coffee; several sorts of branded tea, variety of fresh juices. Quite popular in the noon time. Personnel don't speak English.
Extremely difficult to find. It is right off the N-11 north of town, next to a well-known "puti club" (brothel) in the area called Moonight. You need a car to get there. The interior is drab and uninspired. The exterior seating is on plastic chairs literally next to the highway. But the sliced jamón the serve is undeniably the best around and they have a selection of local and inexpensive wines. Diners will most likely be surrounded by a mix of southern French and Figuerans devouring large plates of jamón that are quite reasonably priced.
An excellent local restaurant with a daily prix fix menu with dishes from the area including good gaspatxo in the summer. A 2- to 3-minute walk from the Dalí Museum. Fills up fast after 14:00.
Dali-inspired interiors: creative but simple; can be found by a painted old VW Beetle. Almost empty in the noon time as Catalans eat around 13:30-14:00. They have a sister restaurant in Girona which is admittedly a great deal cooler and definitely worth checking out if you like this one.
A good place to generally grab a drink, but also with good dishes, typical of the area during lunch.
A chain sandwich shop with a good selection of affordable items for lunch, ranging from traditional Catalan types to others.
The more well-known of the two Chinese restaurants in Figueres.
Cool place on the Plaça de les Patates with a great terrace area as well as a cool interior and relatively cheap drinks.
A decent bar in the area, next to other, lesser bars.
As the name implies, a primarily beer bar with over 100 different beers to choose from. As with many places, serves tapas as well. Opens till late in the night
A basic but well-priced and clean hotel just off the main road, similar in comfort level to Los Ángeles
Basic yet clean rooms and one of the more affordable options in Figueres with wifi available.
On the Rambla in the centre of town. Modern and fine overall. Generally considered to be a more basic hotel.
A good distance from the center and better for those with cars, this is a very new hotel with very cheap rates on simple, but clean rooms. Part of the larger, Sidorme chain of hotels in Spain.
South of town, it requires visitors to have their own car.
Convenient to the centre and just off the Rambla, rooms start in the mid-€50 range if booked in advance.
A very modern hotel a couple kilometres north of town. More targeted towards those with a car, but is a very classy and upscale establishment.
Just up the street from the Dalí Museum and quite central overall. Generally considered decent overall for the price with a lot of surrealist art decorating the place.
A very modern remnant of 1970s construction that gets mixed reviews, but it generally thought to be clean overall. Very central all the local attractions though.
Very much in the centre, but on the main road through town, although it is rather quiet at night.
Definitely one of the nicest hotels in town, but also rather expensive. Convenient to those with cars as it is just off the main road through town, but is out of the immediate centre. Excellent restaurant though.
A three-star affair just outside the center on the road to Olot. Better suited to those with cars, but definitely one of the higher-end hotels in the area.
Surrealist souvenirs galore and many other touristic items related to Dalí.
A number of Dalí souvenirs as well as Surrealist-themed works of art.
A fun shop with a wide selection of teas and chocolates.
An old shop with a large selection of local pastry specialties, especially during Christmas time.
A traditional shop with sweets, chocolates, and pastries typical to Catalonia.
Ceramics that are quite typical of the Empordà region. The shop stocks most everything that there is. For those wishing for a larger selection, go to La Bisbal.
Very touristic, but for someone looking to buy items that are typical to Catalonia, they carry most everything.
An overall general store with electrical, painting, kitchen, and other general household items. They also happen to stock a good supply of Catalan items such as steel paella pans along with the portable gas burners for them, porrós (the wine pitcher you pour in to your mouth), and setrills (an olive oil container) as well as others. A good alternative to more touristic stores.
A bit out of the centre, but still very easy to walk to, they offer a good selection of Spanish wines. They also have a selection of the higher-end Catalan wines from the area.
A shop with some local wines, but more alcohols.
By rail
Four high speed international trains run daily from Barcelona Sants via Girona, taking 55 min to Figures Vilafant.
By bus
The bus station is directly across Plaça de l'Estació from the local train station with regular connections to Barcelona and other destinations in Catalonia.
All the sites for the vast majority of tourists going to Figueres are easily reached on foot, and there are plenty of benches and public spaces for a rest in the shade if one gets tired while walking around.
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