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City in North Gyeongsang, South Korea
Photo: Korea.net / Korean Culture and Information Service, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Andong (안동,安東) is a city in North Gyeongsang Province. Andong is the self-proclaimed "Capital City of Korean Spiritual Culture", having maintained aspects of the traditional culture of Korea throughout the past 2,000 years. Over 280 cultural assets are scattered around the city.
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Walk around it three times, and write your wish on a tag. Peace or reuinification seem to be common answers if stumped. The sight alone of all the aging tags hung off such an ancient tree is worth a peek.
부용대
The view from atop showcases the entire village and is rather spectacular. Take the little wooden ferry from down by the pine forest, it's pretty cheap and return is included. Those feeling adventurous can note that its actually possible to descend or ascend the cliff not only by taking the main trail beside Okyeon Pavilion, but also by a lesser marked one that goes via Gyeomam Pavilion, following the strata along the cliff-face itself, halfway up. Not for oversized individuals or those wary of heights.
In every October, you can also visit the Andong International Mask Dance Festival, showcasing not only Korean Mask Dance, but also various traditional dances of countries round the world. The festival is split into two halves.Typically tourists only visit the main event in Andong city itself, by the river (~2 blocks south of the bus and train terminals). It is interesting, but dance acts on the main stage are well spaced out (day-pass admission ₩5,000), even on weekends, and the rest of the time you are left to wander what's mostly a tourist trap. Food and booze is plentiful however (even whale), and there are many affordable mask making stalls set up, intended for children but also widely enjoyed by curious overseas visitors as the little blobby things you use to decorate the mask are unlike anything that can be seen in the West. The second half is located over in Hahoe village (see above). For the idle spectator, this is a definite highlight, as the stage is positioned amongst the pine grove on the banks of the river, opposite Buyongdae cliff, with the colourful costumes contrasting well against the natural backdrop. When travelling to Haohe village during the festival, pick a seat on the left side of the bus for a special surprise amongst the rice paddies. Programs to learn many folk dances and mask dance contests are also prepared during the festival.
Famous for producing honey-sweet apples with a savory crunchiness. It is a beautiful and quaint village located between the cities of Pohang and Andong.Numerous apple farms to be appreciated. Just walk around the village and you will see them. Spend a day walking around and appreciating the beauty. Maybe the locals will offer apples to foreigners when they are in season around October.
This is the only cafe in town where you can eat some kinds of brunch. They have 6 brunch menus - chicken, vegetable egg, basic type, pancake, quiche, vegan pasta and extra orders (of sausage, toast, bacon, pancakes, etc.) are possible. There are 5 kinds of hand-dripped coffee - from Kenya, Indonesia, Ethiopia, Colombia and Brazil — and sometimes they can serve specialty coffee (but there is no coffee machine). The general opinion of visitors is that this place is pretty good and comfortable.
Andong Old Market, or Jjimdak Golmok, is crammed with Andong jjimdak restaurants. All the food is cooked in booths out front of the restaurant, so you can tour around and choose a favourite. Andong Jjimdak Jongson stands out because its menu contains a variety of different styles of Andong jjimdak.
Kkachi Gumeong Jib, or Magpie Hole House, specialises in heotjesabap (₩9,000), which is a local variation of bibimbap flavoured with soy sauce instead of hot pepper sauce. If you get the Yangban Meal (₩15,000) you get a variety of dishes including fish and some very excellent shark meat. All food is served in heavy bronze tableware.
This restaurant specialises in salted mackerel, and many locations can be found across Andong. As well, they run a mail-order system for sending out Andong mackerel. The restaurant serves mackerel roasted or in a very mild (but spicy looking) soup.
You can taste European style bread&goods. Mammoth bakery always use well-roasted coffee beans so all of their espresso drinks are very good and reasonable. "Mammoth Bakery is just off the main square in downtown Andong, a short walk northward from the bus terminal, near the Pizza Hut. Baked goods start from ₩1,000, with cakes starting in the ₩15,000 range, sandwiches around ₩3,500, and espresso drinks are very reasonably priced at around ₩3,500 as well." It's hard to find restaurant to eat continental breakfast in any Korean traditional village so this is the closest you can get.
The Andong Soju and Traditional Food Museum is relatively small, and most of the information is in Korean. You can see a model of how the still works, as well as information on traditional table spreads. There is also information on the "master brewer" Jo Ok-hwa, founder of Andong Soju, as well as her meeting with Queen Elizabeth II in 1999. The distillery itself is only open on weekdays. There is also a gift shop where you can buy Andong Soju for a decent price.
안동온천스파랜드
Andong's most central jimjillbang is Oncheon aka Andong Spaland. It's situated about one block north of the train station. From the Intercity bus terminal, facing outwards, turn right, go about two blocks and you'll reach the Train station. From the train station, facing out, travel down the road about 1-2 blocks, looking to the right. It's tucked down a backstreet but is such a tall building with a stupidly large neon sign on top proudly proclaiming jimjillbang and sauna that you cannot miss it. Combined shower and stay rates are ₩6,000.
치암고택민박
A great place to experience a Korean traditional noble house. Chiam-gotaek is located in the city of Andong. It costs less than ₩3,000 to get there from the train station. The house itself is a cultural heritage, which was built hundreds of years ago. Staying several nights in this fabulous house offers a real experience of traditional lifestyle of a Korean family. There are two small rooms which are ₩50,000, which are suitable for backpackers or a couple. Rooms are very clean and cozy. Breakfast is not provided. Reservation is required in advance by e-mail.
지례예술촌
It is a really quiet & peaceful small village. You can experience a life of two upper classes of old Korea or working classes.
봉정사
A great place to visit and experience Korean traditional Buddhist life. It is important to respect the Buddhist rules of the temple, if you want to stay there. For more information on Temple Stay, this website is helpful: eng.templestay.com.
단호샌드파크캠핑장
Graceful and beautiful natural herb & grass dyed goods. Dresses are nice and becoming to everybody.
By train
There are regular direct services from Seoul, Busan, Daegu and Gwangju.
By bus
Andong is quite easily accessible on the intercity bus network. Bear in mind that it's usually best to pre-book your ticket or at least try to confirm departure times online.
The downtown area of Andong is very small and you can walk across the city centre in under 10 minutes.
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