Old Town of Kraków, Poland
Photo: DESMS, CC BY-SA 3.0 pl via Wikimedia Commons
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Wawel Castle
The earliest parts of the present castle are medieval but most of it was built from the 16th C in Renaissance style, with baroque additions, surrounding an Italianate courtyard. It suffered when the centre of power moved to Warsaw, the country was partitioned, and there was a harrowing series of military occupations and wars. It was lavishly restored in the 20th C. No combi ticket : State Rooms (49 zł), Royal Private Apartments (25 zł), Crown Treasury (43 zł), The Armoury (15 zł), "Lost Wawel" (decorative fragments from buildings that are gone) (15 zł), First Floor Galeries (5 zł), Royal Gardens (5 zł), Dragon's Den (9 zł) and Sandomierska Tower (5 zł). The audioguide is recommended.In November some exhibits benefit from the "Free November" programme, but they will sell out so you must book well in advance.
Known in full as Królewska Bazylika Archikatedralna śś. Stanisława i Wacława na Wawelu, or the "Royal Archcathedral Basilica of Saints Stanislaus and Wenceslaus on Wawel Hill". On 2 Nov 1946 a talented young priest called Karol Wojtyla conducted his first mass here, the day after his ordination; he went on to become the city's bishop, Pope John Paul II, and a modern Saint. The building is Gothic, built from 14th C. Several crypts and chapels house the remains of Poland's monarchs, nobility, heroes and poets. The Sigismund Tower, ascended by rickety wooden steps, contains the huge Sigismund Bell. The Holy Cross chapel and the Queen Sophia chapel to the right and left of the main entrance (although they are at the entrance if you follow the standard walking tour you don't see them until near the end) are both of great interest, the Holy Cross chapel has 14th century frescoes and the red marble sarcophagus of King Casimir IV Jagiellon while the Queen Sophia chapel is also very lavishly decorated, however they are not the only gems even the casual tourist will find sights of great interest at every turn. Allow at least 1 hour for a visit. Don't forget the small John Paul II museum just across the yard.
Smocza Jama
the limestone hill is riddled with clefts and caverns, and one was said to be the lair of a fearsome dragon. ("Smok" finds echos in Tolkien's Smaug - he himself gave an obscure German derivation, but he had wide knowledge of European legends and languages.) The sons of King Krakus fed the dragon a calf stuffed with smouldering sulphur, and this proto-vindaloo killed it. Enter the cave from Thieves' Bastion on the eastern terrace. It's open April-Oct daily 10:00-17:00, 9 zł, but visit it last as it takes you out of Wawel. You descend 135 steps into the limestone cave, then through a passageway to emerge onto the riverbank promenade.
Branch of the National Museum, re-opened in Dec 2019 after refurbishment. Classical art, the highlight being the Mona Weasel, an authentic Leonardo da Vinci portrait, in Polish Dama z gronostajem. She's properly called "The Lady with an Ermine" but the beast she cradles is not zoologically accurate - it's an allusion to the nobility of her sugar daddy the Duke of Milan, who just happened to employ Leonardo. Unlike the better-known Mona Lisa, the painting doesn't suffer from over-familiarity, over-merchandising and overcrowding. The museum houses works by other painters of world renown such as Rembrandt and Brueghel which are able to be enjoyed at your leisure unlike the paintings in the famous and over-loved museums of western Europe. This museum is much bigger than it appears from the outside and is one of the highlights of Krakow.
Sukiennice
In the centre of the square, this large trading hall was built in Gothic style in the 14th century and rebuilt in Renaissance style in the 16th. The ground floor is an arcade filled with souvenir shops: this is open 24 hours even when the shops are closed. Upstairs is the Gallery of 19th C Polish Art, a branch of the National Museum. The Enlightenment, Romanticism, early Nationalism, Realism and Impressionism are the main styles of the permanent collection; plus rotating exhibitions. There are also extensive underground galleries with changing exhibitions, enquire at the upstairs gallery.
Most of the Gothic / Renaissance Town Hall was demolished in 1820, but the tower survives, now a branch of the City Museum. You can climb to the observation deck on the top floor, and peer into the workings of the clock, now radio-synchronised.
Kościół św. Wojciecha
At the south corner of the square just before the start of Grodzka, this is one of the oldest churches in Central Europe, with a wooden church recorded from the 10th C. It was rebuilt in the 11th C in Romanesque style and enlarged in the 17th C in baroque style.
Bazylika Mariacka
Built in Gothic Brick from the 14th C, with two unequal towers facing the main square. The hejnał is played from the towers every hour and on Polish Radio at noon, commemorating the trumpeter slain as he sounded the alarm. There's a soaring interior with a magnificent altar by Veit Stoss (1477-89), plus another with a stone crucifix by Stoss. The wall paintings are by Matejko, Wyspianski, and Mehoffer.
Leaving aside Wawel cathedral this church and St Francis church are probably the two most impressive in Krakow.
Pałac Krzysztofory
The main building. Usual historical museum stuff: armour, swords, etc. Every year after Christmas there is an exhibition concerning local tradition: Krakow szopka (characteristic nativity scene where historical buildings of Kraków are used as backdrop for the Nativity of Jesus.)
in Little Market Square was founded in the 14th century by Mikolaj Wierzynek as a Gothic grave chapel, remodeled in early Baroque in 1583, and formerly housed a Jesuit college. By the main entrance is "Gethsemane", a complex of stone sculptures by Veit Stoss.
Pałac Biskupow Krakowskich
Renaissance palace with a beautiful yard. It is world famous as the home of Pope John Paul II. Starting in 1963, he lived there as the bishop/cardinal of Kraków. After he became pope, he always stayed at there while in Kraków. His small talks from the window with Krakowians are famous. Often one can find a candle in the window and many candles and flowers under it.
The Dominicans came in 1222 to Kraków. After the Tatars destroyed this monastery, they rebuilt it. Duke Leszek, the Black of Kraków, and Bishop Iwo Odrowaz were buried inside the church in the 13th century. Also the great Italian Humanist Fillipo Callimachus was buried there in the 15th century. His grave was made by Veit Stoss and Peter Vischer. There are 13 chapels inside the church, the Sobieski Chapel with graves of the family of king Jan III Sobieski, the golden Myszkowski Chapel full of pretty baroque and gold, the manierist Dominican Chapel by Santi Gucci are the most beautiful. The Renaissance cross ways are full of epitaphs and baroque paintings by Tomasz Dolabella. A beautiful Romanique Crypta is under the cross ways.
The Franciscans came in 1237 to Kraków. Their first monastery was destroyed by the Tatars in 1241 and 1259. In 1269, the saint Salomea was buried inside the St. Francis Church. In 1462, 1655 and 1850 parts of the monastery were destroyed by fire. Inside you can find Gothic architecture and some prominent works of Polish Art Nouveau, i.e. the famous stained-glass "Good Father the Creator" by Stanisław Wyspiański. The cross ways are well worth seeing with their Gothic frescoes. It has been a basilica since 1920.
This Dominican church, was built in 1222 in Romanesque style (the refectory still is). It was rebuilt as a three-aisled basilica in the second half of 14th century and the 15th century. It is filled with a countless number of tombs and the set of burial chapels of the 16th and 17th centuries was second only to the Wawel Cathedral necropolis. The great fire of 1850 destroyed much of the church. There is an amazing late 14th-century stone portal richly ornamented with carved floral motifs located here.
Plac Wszystkich Świętych
The name refers to the Gothic All Saints' Church that stood there until the 19th century. Actress Helena Modrzejewska and writer Joseph Conrad lived in houses at this square. There are two beautiful Gothic churches, the St. Francis and the Dominicanus, at its western and eastern ends.
Plac św. Marii Magdaleny
A fine square in the center of Okół, the oldest part of the Old Town just under the Wawel. The early baroque St. Peter and Paul Church and the Roman St. Andrew Church are there. In the middle stands the column of Piotr Skarga.
Pałac Wielkopolskich
on pl. Wszystkich Świętych is nowadays Town Council offices.
The oldest baroque building in Poland. It was built in 1597 by Jozef Britius for the Jesuit Order and completed by Jan Trevano. The stone façade is based on the Roman church Il Gesu. You can see the longest Foucault's pendulum in Poland (46.5 m) there. Showings on Thursdays.
This is the best example of the Romanesque style in Poland. It was built in the 11th century by Sieciech, palatine of Duke Wladyslaw Herman. The fortifying character of the church is visible and the church was the only place the Krakovians could flee successfully when the Tatars conquered Kraków in 1241. Two beautiful slim Romanesque towers are covered with baroque helmets and the interior is baroque, too.
This church was raised in 1637 in Baroque style for the Discalced Carmelite nuns, but is now a Protestant church. The Gothic crucifix above the altar is one of the oldest in Poland.
This church was founded in the 11th century by Duke Wladyslaw Herman as a votive offering for the birth of their son. It was later rebuilt in the Gothic style at the end of the 13th century. The Holy Mass is offered in English on Sundays at 10:30.
This church was built in 1694 at the place of the Tęczyński Palace in baroque style. It was damaged in the big fire of 1850 but the interior was saved.
Muzeum Archeologiczne
Pre and protohistoric human activities and artefacts around the region. Takes about an hour to tour the entire museum.
Pałac Biskupa Erazma Ciolka
This was founded in the second half of the 13th century by Duke Boleslaw Wstydliwy. On the wall of the apse stands the sculpted group Golgotha. Inside the church is a rococo pulpit with a worth seeing cross.
Built in 1666, together with the monastery in baroque style. In the crypta are graves of the brothers with mummified bodies, due to the special microclimate.
Dom Jana Matejki
Atelier of the well known painter Matejko (1838-1893), run by National Museum.
It was built by Piotr Wlast from Skrzynno in the 12th century in Romanesque style. In the 17th century, the church was altered in Baroque style. The high altar contains a Renaissance painting called "The Mother of God redeeming the Slaves".
Constructed in 1632 founded by Anna Lubomirska as a vote to commemorate the victorious battle in 1621 in Chocim against the Osmans. It was destroyed during the Swedish invasion in 1655 and rebuilt in 1671. The main altar has the painting of the "Our Lady of Snows", the gift of Pope Urban VIII. Next to the church stands a cloister with some fragments of the defensive medieval architecture, like a brick tower from the 13th century.
Built in 1618, this church was constructed in early baroque style for the Carmelichans. Later, it was used by the nuns of the hospital of the Holy Ghost.
Plac św. Ducha
The Gothic Holy Spirit Church is located on the square. Beautiful 19th century Słowacki Theatre is there as well.
It was constructed in 1186. The oldest part of the church is a stone presbytery, while a brick part of the construction dates from the 15th century. The interior is very beautifully decorated with wall paintings dating back to 1420, like 'The Agony in the Garden' in the chapel and a wonderful Gothic palm vault which is based on only one very high pillar.
Plac Szczepański
The name refers to the Gothic Stefanus Church that stood there until the 19th century. The secessionist Palace of Art and Old Theatre are there. It was renovated in faux secessionist style, which angered lots of citizens. The fountain plays music in summer evenings.
Pałac Sztuki
Kamienica Szołayskich
Temporary exhibitions of Polish art, mainly relating to the period of Young Poland. There's also a collection of works by Stanisław Wyspiański.
Bunkier Sztuki
Gallery of contemporary art near Main Square. Also a book shop and nice cafe in the "bunker".
Kolegiata św. Anny
This church was built in the 14th century and rebuilt in 1407 in Gothic style. It served as the university church. It was rebuilt in baroque style in 1689 by Tylman from Gameren modeled on S. Andrea della Valle in Rome. The corpus of the church was composed of a wide main nave with three pairs of side chapels. The holy professor of theology Jan Kanty is buried there. His baroque grave is one of the most beautiful in Central Europe.
This is the oldest part of the university, built 1364-1400 in Gothic style. It has a beautiful courtyard and chambers such as the Assembly Hall and stuba communis - the professors' common room. Niclaus Copernicus, Jan III Sobieski, and John Paul II all studied here. In its museum are the scientific instruments of Copernicus, the first globe to depict America, and many other medieval artefacts. Oxygen was first liquified in a stable condition here in 1883.
is Gothic and stands opposite the Peter and Paul Church. It has an attractive Renaissance yard with arcades and sculpture by Igor Mitoraj.
is a Renaissance building opposite St Anna Church, the university church since 1409. It has a fine Renaissance yard with arcades.
is a beautiful Neogothic buildings It was built in the 19th century and has been the headquarters of the Jagiellonian University since then. The grand stairways inside the building are worth seeing.
is a big neo-Gothic building just north of Wawel.
Dom Józefa Mehoffera
Atelier of one the best known Polish painters with great garden and a cafe.
Teatr Słowackiego
Grand old venue by north city walls stages concerts, plays and other events.
Narody Stary Teatr
Located in a Kraków-style Art Nouveau building next to pl. Szczepański.
Old Theatre's second stage.
Light plays, comedies mostly.
Puppet theatre, plays for kids mostly but they also do experimental stuff for mature audience.
Scena pod Ratuszem
Small theatre in Town Hall's basement is part of People's Theatre (Teatr Ludowy) based in Nowa Huta.
University Dramatic Arts school's theatre.
MOS
Multifunctional space for plays, exhibitions and concerts.
is a small repertory theatre
Filharmonia Krakowska
Cinema in a beautiful palace with three screens. Similar to ARS with their selection of films. They have special screenings of Polish films with subtitles in English.
Arthouse.
Small, quirky self-service restaurant, open late-late for carousers. The fare is typically Polish, the daily deal is a soup & main served with a side salad at a fixed price of 34 zł.
Serves good traditional Polish food at reasonable prices in the middle of the old town. It may be difficult to get good value food in the old town, but this restaurant proves it's not impossible.
Serbian
The name means "At Grandma Raspberry's": cheap authentic Polish food. The branch at Sławkowska is self-service, with communal seating at long wooden tables and benches. Order at the counter (English menus available), then listen for your number to be called to pick up your food. The street sign is on the wall of the Polish Academy of Crafts - enter the big doors, go to the end of the hall, turn left, go out into the courtyard, then left again and downstairs. The branch at Szpitalna has a small self-serve area, but the main area is a cellar with tablecloths, candles and drapes, and traditional evening meals served by waitresses in folk-lore dress, and live piano music. The menu, while more elaborate, is still affordable.
French bistro open late, but it's best early for the bakery and light bites.
Tucked away in the yard of a Renaissance house, the main drawcard here is the giant salad bar of 20-plus mostly-vegetarian options, with both hot and cold items available. Beer garden and wine cellar.
Home made vegetarian meals, pastries, fresh juices, shakes, and smoothies plus great view of Matejko Square. Free WiFi and PC.
Very good and pricey French cuisine. Gets rave reviews for their meat, veggies will struggle.
Restaurant with amazing cod-medieval interiors. Food is good (try the duck); the service is sometimes altogether off but usually altogether on.
Fine dining just off Market Square within Hotel Stary. This one is on the ground floor, Rybki Nove is on the second.
Excellent upscale Polish & European cuisine.
Polish cuisine.
Upscale traditional cuisine in one of the oldest restaurants in Poland. Mikołaj Wierzynek invited several kings and the German Emperor in 1364 to a feast there and gave them the golden dishes they ate from.
Big patio cafe open to Planty park, next to Bunkier Sztuki gallery of contemporary art.
Famous cafe with beautiful Secession-style interior. Come for a drink to admire it, but as for the food, oh dear no. They often do tourist-trappy "Folk Nights".
Bookstore with English-language second hand books plus newspapers. Good cafe with coffee, bagels and other light bites.
Coffee and light bites, artistic atmosphere, check out the hidden room on the first floor (guess how to get there).
A cafe with a beautiful medieval courtyard, showcasing the assortment of the E. Wedel chocolate factory (since 1851, but now part of Lotte Holdings), including the traditional praline-wafer torte (torcik wedlowski) still decorated by hand. Wonderful chocolate drinks and cakes.
Herring Embassy
Nice outside patio and interesting interior with poetry scrawled on the walls. Polish tapas at 4 zł a dish, drinks 6 zł and mains. Knock back vodka and herring and enjoy.
Popular late-night spot for drinks and food.
Great beer garden in a courtyard.
A packed underground jazz bar with great music - 7 zł for a beer, get there early or reserve seats online. Live concerts every day.
In summer, drink in the pleasant beer garden, on cold evenings head for the cellar bar which often has live music.
Huge selection of beers and good food. Polish real ales on draft, and over 150 bottled beers from all over Europe.
The First Place on the Left Side of Stolarska if You Come from Small Square
Best name ever! They have good beer on tap called Smocza Głowa (Dragon's Head) which is made locally and hard to get. Most areas are for smokers, limited seating for non-smokers.
Small place with around a hundred different vodkas to be sampled. Try the taster "flight" of six.
Food and live music in basement, or sit out and admire the square.
House music, keep a sharp eye on what they charge at the bar.
Good Polish jazz, reasonable prices.
Legendary student club with live music
Great location 300 m east of Wawel, clean (usually) and efficient.
Great location on main market square.
Clean well-run place, 500 m from main railway station and Old Town gates. 100 bed hostel in a 19th century tenement.
Great location, usually clean & comfy. Doesn't have a dorm so it's really a budget hotel. Two of the rooms are in nearby apartments.
Within Old Town, clean and friendly.
Clean and friendly party hotel, they'll lead you on pub crawls and similar cultural events daily. Part of a chain of 3 nearby hostels. Guests must be 18-40 years old.
Just northeast of Wawel, clean modern spacious rooms.
If you get a lower dorm, expect a lot of noise until after midnight as reception is directly outside the door of your dorm, as are the bathrooms. Definitely not for early nights.
65 m from Main Market Square, free Wifi, air-conditioned, lockers, own restaurant and pub.
Three-star hotel in downtown Krakow, 10 mins from the Old Town.
A cozy decent 3-star hotel, ten mins walk to main market.
Good standard rooms in a renovated apartment house near Wawel.
Mid-range going on basic, good location, cleanliness is erratic.
Upscale place tucked away on charming street just below Wawel, strong on period charm and comfort though rooms are a bit dim.
Secessionist-style building created in the 19th C by a knock-through of medieval tenements, with Joseph Conrad among its guests. Great location, ambiance and service, some of the rooms have seen better days but the junior suite is great value.
One of the oldest hotels in Poland, in a Renaissance palazzo with a travel-related Latin inscription over the portico. The rooms are small and a tad dated, but great location and service. Decent restaurant but breakfast is disappointing. Tsar Alexander I, Franz Liszt and Balzac were among its notable guests.
Hotel in a 16th-century house overlooking Market Square, where John Wentzl opened his restaurant in 1792. Great location, comfort and service.
A four-star hotel in a 19th-century mansion about 5–10 minutes walk from Rynek Główny. The rooms are beautifully furnished in pastel colors with custom-made furniture. Go for a ground or first floor room, as the second floor rooms (while still nicely apportioned) have skylights rather than windows. Staff are friendly and helpful; the buffet breakfast is also good, with tasty pastries, cheese and ham, and proper coffee.
Good upscale hotel just outside old city centre, a short walk to Main Market Square and Wawel.
Five-star hotel on the riverbank, exterior is slabby but with a great view of Wawel, well-furnished interior with gym, pool and rooftop restaurant.
A luxurious apartment hotel on Krakow's Main Market Square.
This boutique hotel once housed the offices of Poland's top newspaper, Ilustrowany Kuryer Codzienny, and has been decorated to match, with interwar Art Deco style and antique typewriters on the walls; even the hotel's name comes from the typeface used by the paper. The location is also excellent, tucked away in a quiet corner of the Old Town halfway between the main square and the railway station. Part of Marriott's Tribute Portfolio.
is the big mall next to the main railway and bus stations. It's got clothes, souvenirs, bookstores, eating places etc.
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