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Šiauliai (show-LAY) is an industrial city in Samogitia, the northwest region of Lithuania, though it borders Aukštaitija the northeast region. It's the country's fourth largest city: in 2023 the population was 40,434, with a total of about 108,000 across the metropolis. It's a modern city with several sites of interest, but the stand-out is the "Hill of Crosses" pilgrimage site 12 km north.
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Models and sculptures of angels - cute, moving or emetic as the mood takes you.
The town has a bicycle factory Baltik vairas, and this quirky museum exhibits the history of the bike.
Small museum on the history of photography, but short on actual photos.
Gaidžio laikrodžio aikštė
The downtown crossroads and rendezvous point. The rooster on the clocktower traditionally flapped its wings and squawked a greeting, but broke down in Soviet times. It was repaired in 2003 and now squawks in several languages at 12:00 and 18:00 daily. Vilniaus g is pedestrianised and dotted with street sculptures and murals.
Sv Jurgio baznycia
This is Roman Catholic but topped by onion domes, as it was built in 1908 for Russian troops.
A lakeside park, where a Golden Boy on a column shoots an arrow in the general direction of Minsk. The column casts a shadow on a sundial below, and commemorates the Battle of Saule (which means "sun") on 22 Sept 1236. The Livonian Brothers of the Sword advanced out of Riga to lay into the pagan Samogitian and Semigallian tribes, and to link up with their allies the Teutonic Knights of Prussia. But on swampy ground they were slaughtered by lightly-armed, more agile pagan forces; the Brothers were broken by the defeat, and their territories rebelled. Their survivors joined the Teutonic Knights, which remained powerful until broken in turn at Grunwald in 1410. The site of the Battle of Saule is thought to be Jauniūnai, 30 km northeast of town towards Joniškis.
The atmospheric woodland park next to the sundial. It was created in 1831 when cholera struck the city, and used until 1959, with Catholic, Orthodox and "Free-thinkers" sections. Many monuments were lost to wartime bombing.
Geležinė lapė
A big metal sculpture on the lake shore east of the cemetery. Either he / she is marking territory, or a scoop-bag the size of a bin-liner will shortly be needed.
Šv apaštalų Petro ir Pauliaus katedra
Prominent with its 75 m spire, this large Roman Catholic church was built in Renaissance style in the 1620s. It was part defensive - note the shooting loops - as it was at risk from armed robbery and sectarian riots. It was bashed about in wartime but restored, and promoted to cathedral in 1997. Pity about the drab modern block of flats next to it.
Frankel ran a leather business and built this Art Nouveau mansion in 1908. It was a military hospital under the Soviets then refurbished, to exhibit his era and the Jewish community of those times.
Katinų muziejus
Collection of feline memorabilia, plus six live cats that appreciate being stroked, and a sad mini-zoo.
Small exhibition of what your gran watched, no signage in English.
Sv Ignaco Lojolos baznycia
This was built as a Jesuit oratory in 1936, shut down under the Soviets, but rebuilt as an RC church in the 1980s.
A little more than an old locomotive.
Small but well-maintained by the university.
Rebuilt in 2022, the city's history is now exhibited here.
A 19th century windmill restored to working order.
Kryziu Kalnas
A pilgrimage site 12 km north of Šiauliai. It's a hillock or embankment packed with crosses - over 100,000 at the latest estimate in 2006, with more arriving daily. The cross was a pagan symbol long before Lithuania's conversion to Christianity in 1387, the last European country to convert, and there may already have been a tradition of planting them here on the site of a hill fort. However the modern cult started in 1831 after a failed uprising against Russian rule; many rebels' bodies were never found so their families planted crosses here in remembrance. Another uprising in 1863 had the same outcome. The hill thus became symbolic of Lithuanian national endurance under oppression. The Soviets bulldozed the site three times and erected fences and ditches, but back came the crosses. Pope John Paul II visited in Sept 1993 - the open structure just north is where he held mass. You're free to plant your own cross so long as it's less than 3 m tall, and tourist shops sell these. Good luck finding a place to plant it, and many visitors have failed to, so in places crosses lie in a jumble like a scrapyard.
Mazesniuju broliu ordino Lietuvos sv Kazimiero provincijos Kryziu kalno vienuolynas
The Brothers Minor of the Franciscan Province of St Casimir. It has 16 cells for novice monks but its church is open to visitors. Instead of a crucifix and wall behind the altar, there's a large window so the backdrop is of the crosses on the hill, so the church is not conventionally "oriented". Consecrated in 2000, it was built after the Pope pointedly asked where was the church?
Budget canteen for trad Lithuanian food, you pay cash upfront. They only speak Lithuanian so some pointing and grunting is needed to order. Lunch hour gets busy.
Decent filling food, service spasmodic.
They've given up the pirate decor so it doesn't much resemble the rum advert, but it's one of the better spots in town centre.
Tavern with live music and trad Lithuanian food, fun atmosphere, occasional malfunctions of cooking and service.
It's pronounced "Broadway Pizza" and has a wide selection, but slow service lets it down.
Upscale hotel in town centre. Rooms feel a bit dated, but clean with TV and safe. The hotel has a restaurant and conference facilities.
Basic hotel, central, decent for what you pay.
By train
A daily train to Latvia and Estonia leaves Vilnius at 07:00 and Šiauliai at 09:00, calling at Joniškis and Jelgava and reaching Riga at 11:00.
By plane
The most convenient commercial airport is Vilnius (VNO), and there are budget flights to Kaunas (KUN).
Walk: The city sprawls, but most points of interest are within a compact area.
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Riga · International · RIX
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