Second-largest city in Lithuania
Photo: Diliff, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Kaunas at the edge of Sūduva region is the second-largest city in Lithuania, with a population of 304,000 in 2024. The main reason to visit is its Old Town, connected to the 19th-century New Town along Laisvės alėja. It was the country's capital between the two world wars.
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The first castle was built mid-14th century at the confluence of the rivers Nemunas and Neris. It was destroyed in 1401 and the new castle was constructed in the 15th and 16th centuries. It is the oldest building in Kaunas. Today the round tower houses an art gallery, and the castle hosts occasional festivals. The tip of the confluence is Santakos Park.
A wooden church was built outside the castle in 1471, then rebuilt in Gothic redbrick from 1492. It's been much bashed about over the years.
Built in renaissance style in the mid-16th century, when Kaunas was a flourishing city of merchants, and nowadays dubbed The White Swan. In 1836 it was reconstructed as a residence for Russian czars. The Wedding Hall (marriage registration office) was opened on the ground and first floors in 1973. The cellars house the Kaunas Ceramics museum' with hand-crafted crockery, tile stove ornaments, and roof tiles of impressive size The city history museum has of archaeological findings from the Old Town and surroundings of Kaunas. The exposition also reflects the lifestyle of the townsmen of the time.
Houses a huge collection of skulls, herbs, medical items and other relics.
Built as a Bernardine convent church 1624-1634 in late Renaissance and Gothic style, it now serves the city's seminary.
This is within Siručiai Palace and came to be the residence of poet and priest Jonas Maironis. It has a huge collection of books, manuscripts, artworks, and memorial items.
This was built in rococo style from 1666 to 1720. The Jesuits had already established a school here, where poet Adam Mickiewicz was a teacher 1819 - 1823. The building was then transferred to the Orthodox church, and had various secular uses in Soviet times until 1989. Sacral music concerts are organised in the church.
This is first documented in 1413, in the reign of Vytautas the Great, but construction dragged on to 1624, nicely in time to get smashed up by the Russians and Swedes. It's 84 m long by 34 m wide and mostly red-brick Gothic, but refurbishment added Renaissance and Baroque features. It was promoted to a cathedral in 1895: notable burials include bishop and author Motiejus Valančius (1801-1875), poet Jonas Mačiulis (1862-1932) and Cardinal Vincentas Sladkevičius (1920-2000).
This is a branch of the MK Čiurlionis National Art Museum in New Town. It houses 20th-century Lithuanian and émigré art, and a collection of North American Indian art.
A striking example of "flamboyant Gothic", from 1440 until 1532 this was the offices of the Hanseatic merchants, then became a Jesuit chapel. The Jesuits again own it and it houses a small museum about Adam Mickewicz. Perkūnas was a Baltic pagan god of thunder, and around 1900 an image said to be of Perkūnas was found within its walls, hence the present name.
Church of the Assumption of Holy Virgin Mary
Gothic redbrick church built in 1400 for the Franciscan monks. It's suffered repeatedly from river floods, occupying armies and religious upheavals, but since 1919 has been Roman Catholic.
At the south end of Vytautas bridge is this 133 m funicular, built in 1935 to connect the Old Town with Aleksotas district up the hill. It runs every 10 minutes with a midday lunch break.
Small church at the north end of Vytautus bridge built in 1682-83 in Baroque style.
The church is a fine 15th-century Gothic building.
Small private museum with rare minerals and precious stones from around the world.
Lithuania was first independent from 1918 until 1940, when the Soviets crushed the "First Republic". This neo-baroque palace was home to its presidents. It houses furniture, artwork and other material from the period.
Gothic redbrick church from around 1500.
Built in 1872 in reformist decorative style, though the façade looks neo-baroque. It remains in use, hours erratic, with a display of rabbis' paintings on the second floor.
Old-style natural history museum with thousands of stuffed animals and skeletons.
Garrison Church; Soboras
This beautiful domed building closes off the prospect down Laisvės Aleja. Opened in 1895, it was built in neo-Byzantine style for Russian soldiers based here, and to remind the townsfolk who was in charge. However the main reason to visit is the Catacombs (accessible M-F 10:00-14:00). You descend a spiral staircase into total darkness then feel your way through an underground obstacle course, eventually re-ascending a similar staircase into the light. It started out as an art installation but is now run by the Museum for the Blind, donations welcome. Not for the fainthearted, small children or anyone with difficulty moving around.
Closed for reconstruction, the re-opening date is not known.
Grandiose chunk of interbellum architecture, built at huge cost in 1937. Part of the "Modernist Kaunas: Architecture of Optimism, 1919–1939" UNESCO World Heritage Site. The main façade is adorned by the granite sculpture Three Giants (Trys Milžinai) that became a symbol of the Club. The second floor is the piano nobile with the Grand Hall, Hall of Vytautas, Hall of Dukes and Hall of the President, festooned with chandeliers, paintings, frescoes, furniture, and stained glass. It's now an events venue.
Display of Kaunas' turbulent times from prehistory to the present day, with an immense collection of weapons and armour. One poignant highlight is the remains of Lituanica, a modified Bellanca Pacemaker in which Darius and Girenas flew east across the Atlantic in 1933; they were 650 km short of Kaunas when they crashed. You can climb the tower on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays.
Grandiose neo-classical building of 1928. Primarily a commercial bank, it has a small exhibition of Lithuanian banknotes and coins of the First Republic, and occasionally hosts larger art installations.
The Art Deco main branch of the museum was built in the 1930s and is next to the war museum. It showcases Lithuania's cultural heritage and especially the works of M K Čiurlionis (1875–1911), whose style ranged over symbolism, secessionism, abstractionism and romanticism. The building also houses the War Museum. It was designed by V Dubeneckis and is considered a significant example of Lithuanian modernist architecture; it is a candidate for UNESCO recognition.
Antanas Žmuidzinavičius (1876-1966) was a distinguished landscape painter but now is better known for his huge collection of sculptures of devils. Some 3000 of them are here, from around the world but mainly central European.
Striking modern RC church, completed in 1940 but suppressed by the authorities, so it was only repaired and consecrated in 2004. You can climb the stairs or take the lift to the rooftop terrace.
Dinky little whitewashed brick mosque and minaret built in 1930. The city's first Muslims were Tatars in the 15th century, and this patch was their graveyard, hence the street name Totoriu. It was their quarter of Ramybė Park, which elsewhere interred Catholics, Lutherans and Orthodox. Eventually a wooden mosque, imam's house and school appeared on the site.
The house of sculptor Juozas Zikaras (1881–1944).
Diplomats for Life
In 1940 thousands of Jews from Poland and Lithuania were desperate to get out, but they needed visas. The Dutch issued many visas for Curaçao and their Caribbean colonies, but getting there became much more difficult when Italy joined the Nazis and closed the Med. The main escape route was then across the USSR to the Pacific. In Kaunas the Japanese vice-consul Chiune Sugihara (1900-86) issued hundreds of Japanese transit visas, blithely disregarding orders to conduct all sorts of checks. He may have saved thousands of lives, as a whole family could travel on one visa; from Japan they moved on to North America and elsewhere. His mission ended when the embassy closed, Germany crushed Lithuania, and anyone who hadn't got out was exterminated. Sugihara spent his later years in obscurity in Japan; his Kaunas residence is now this museum.
Within Ąžuolynas Park, this was renovated in 2023 and now offers a better experience for animals and visitors.
Two km south on the former Darius & Girėnas Airport, which now only has light aviation. The indoor exhibits (such as the flight simulator) closed during covid and have yet to re-open. So you can only see the outdoor collection of vintage aircraft.
Extensive gardens and greenhouses established in 1923 and managed by the university.
Kaunas Fortress was a military defensive complex encircling the city, with ten forts built by the Russians 1882-1915 to protect their empire from the growing power of Germany. But when World War I came, after 11 days of assault the forts surrendered, so the Fortress had impeded the enemy advance but proved far from impregnable. From 1920 much of it was demolished or turned over to other state use. The Ninth Fort was the best preserved and was put to horrific use during the Nazi occupation of 1941-44. You enter via the Exposition of Occupations which has the ticket office, and documents the wartime terrors, and the ensuing Soviet terror under Stalin. You then visit the 9th Fort and the 32-m-high memorial to the victims; the fort tunnels can only be seen by special tour.
By appointment only.
Built from the 17th century as a Camaldolese monastery, this is a riot of Baroque thanks to its Italian architects and sculptors. During the 19th / 20th centuries the complex was variously a military stables, psychiatric hospital and art gallery but restored as a convent in the 1990s. The main sight is the Church of the Visitation.
Skansen-type outdoor ethnography museum on lake shore, with traditional buildings brought from around the country. In winter their interiors are closed up but you can still stroll around the park. Dogs permitted on leash outdoors.
The house was built in 1932 for soprano Adelė Nezabitauskaitė-Galaunienė (1895–1962) and art historian Paulius Galaunė (1890–1988). The architect was Arnas Funkas (1898–1957).
Variety of classical opera and operettas in their original language.
Small theatre founded in 1976.
Mix of classical and contemporary drama.
Founded in 1980, they host a contemporary dance festival in autumn.
The concert hall is within the former Parliament House.
Shows for all ages and a museum of puppets.
The largest indoor arena in the Baltics, with a capacity of 15,500 for basketball and up to 20,000 for concerts. It hosts Žalgiris basketball club.
Large athletics stadium (capacity 10,000) plus indoor hall and sports science facilities.
Not to be confused with Žalgiris Arena, this hosts mixed sports and has 7 tennis courts, 4 of them indoor.
Flight experiences with small planes or gliders at Darius and Girenas airfield. They no longer have skydiving here: that's moved out to Pociūnai 30 km south.
Set on the shore of Kaunas Reservoir, they cater to water sports of all kinds.
Combat games on the lakeside site of the former 5th Fort, where you splatter your opponents with paint blobs or airsoft guns.
Combat games such as paintball, airsoft and lasertag.
Vegetarian Indian food at very reasonable prices.
One of the few places in Kaunas still making the traditional Lithuanian doughnut, the spurga.
Offers a huge range of pizzas and side dishes at good prices.
Traditional Lithuanian fare, soup in bowls made of bread and home brewed beer. Cosy, atmospheric and central in Old Town. A chain with several branches in Lithuania and the United Kingdom, there is another branch at K Donelaičio g 11 and one at Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 49. Try the cepelinai ("zeppelins", potato dumplings), considered Lithuania's national dish.
Pleasant place for coffee and cakes.
City Garden
Good restaurant for European cuisine.
Small cozy Indian cafe. Fresh food with vegan options, great service.
Trad Italian fare.
Pleasant New Town trattoria.
55° refers to the proof spirit of samane - moonshine vodka. The restaurant walls illustrate the process, but it doesn't look like any illicit distilling is going on, as reviewers use terms like "quiet" and "good for kids". Good selection of local and European cuisine.
Chocolate restaurant with marvelous snacks, coffee, and a beautiful atmosphere in the heart of Old Town.
Good food, reasonable prices in a family-run restaurant with a 1960s atmosphere.
Bajorkiemis City
"Bokštas" means tower, as it's on the city wall near the Music Theatre. European cuisine.
Hunter's Inn
High quality game dishes in 4 sub-street halls, often booked out for events.
A great place to get a beer, all home brewed. The restaurant serves beer-based dishes such as soups and desserts.
Modern Lithuanian cuisine using local ingredients. Mentioned in the Michelin Guide.
Modern Lithuanian cuisine using local ingredients. Mentioned in the Michelin Guide.
Lively sports bar with over 20 varieties of beer on tap and more than 40 varieties of bottled beer, plus 30 whiskeys and various Lithuanian liquors.
Bustling pub with live music.
Tours available. They also have a taproom at Laisvės al 21 in front of St Michael Cathedral.
Clean, friendly hostel in New Town. No breakfast or meals included, but you can cook in a fully equipped kitchen.
Cheap clean hostel midway between bus and railway stations, 200 m to either. No breakfast or meals included, but you can cook in the kitchen.
Basic hotel in Old Town with 14 double rooms, staff don't speak English. No lift to upper floors. No catering, head out to the many nearby cafes.
Cheap motel at Kaunas Yacht Club on the lakeshore. It has 35 double rooms with TV, Wi-Fi and showers. But no catering, nearby facilities or public transport, so come with supplies or eat en route.
Villa Kaunensis
At the heart of the Old Town, the guesthouse has 21 clean modern room with Internet access.
Chain hotel with 28 rooms very central in Old Town. Four floors but no lifts, and top floor rooms are cramped by the pitch of the roof. Cleanliness variable, no reception so you need a code to get in.
Quiet hotel in Žaliakalnis district with 24 rooms, a conference hall and a restaurant. Cleaning erratic.
formerly Daniela
Central hotel with 39 standard, 24 superior, 7 suites and 2 junior suites. Many found it tatty and grubby.
Very central in Old Town in a restored 16th-19th century building, 48 rooms. No hotel parking.
Part of Accor chain, it's clean and well-run with 125 air-conditioned rooms, conference facilities and a restaurant.
formerly Magnus
Another Accor hotel opposite the bus station, clean and comfy, with parking.
Budget hotel with 44 large rooms, a cafe, grocery store, Wifi & 24-hour reception. Central New Town location.
Old-fashioned hotel, a good budget option very central in New Town. 74 rooms all en-suite with TV & Wifi.
formerly Regina
Small hotel in the quiet residential district of Vilijampole with 10 comfortable rooms.
Chain 4-star with 92 rooms (smoking permitted in some), gets mixed reviews. Free parking. Nightclub and restaurant Europa is next door.
Clean comfy place in New Town, 36 standard rooms, 40 de luxe and fitness centre.
Pleasant quirky hotel with 10 rooms in Pažaislis entertainment & retail park near reservoir. The restaurant serves European, Chinese and Indian fare.
formerly Park Inn
Kaunas’ largest hotel, in New Town with 208 rooms. Gets good reviews for service and room comfort. Free Wifi, no pets. Good gym. Buffet breakfast available.
formerly Europa Royale
Good reviews for this 91-room hotel near Akropolis shopping mall with lots of shops and restaurants. Free parking. It's often booked out for conferences.
Mall in a 4-storey building near bus and train stations, next to the Žalgirio Arena. Lots of retailers, restaurants and cafés, casino and multiplex cinema, pharmacy. Has a multi-story parking lot.
A huge mall with shops, pharmacy, multiscreen cinema, a bowling and pool club, restaurants and a spectacular tropical aquarium. They feed the fish publicly on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday.
Urmo bazė
A place with history from the soviet times, today this "shopping town", a hybrid of a marketplace and a mall, contains more usual retailers together with mom-and-pop shops and places to eat for cheap, alongside the central market of Kaunas.
Indoor mall with a large supermarket, around 50 retailers - various shops, pharmacy, bookstores, opticians, restaurants
Hyper Maxima
A large supermarket with a pizza restaurant, cafe, pharmacy and some 40 shops
A mall which includes a supermarket, pharmacy, clothing shops, service centre, cafes and a pizza restaurant.
By road
The dual-carriageway motorways and main highways are in good condition and are kept open in winter.
By train
From Poland two trains run daily. The morning train leaves Kraków around 06:00, calling at Warsaw Centralna at 09:00 to reach Mockava on the border towards 14:45.
By bus
International: Eurolines buses run from Riga in Latvia (4 per day, 4 hr), Tallinn in Estonia (2 per day, 11 hr), Minsk in Belarus (3 direct per day, 7 hr, or change in Vilnius), and Warsaw in Poland…
By taxi
International ridesharing apps like Bolt or Uber are popular for taxi-like experience in Kaunas.
By car
You really only need a car for outlying sites. All the major rental firms are represented at the airport and there's half-a-dozen downtown offices.
By micromobility
There are more than 50 km of cycleways in Kaunas.
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