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City in Shikoku, Japan
Photo: Original uploader was Vickerman625 at en.wikipedia, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Uwajima (宇和島) is a slice of small town life on the west coast of Shikoku — nothing much out of the ordinary, if you don't count an ancient fertility shrine and the occasional sumo match between two bulls.
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多賀神社 Taga-jinja
Although Taga doesn't get much press at the local tourist office, it's probably the most unusual sight in town: the shrine is an ancient Shinto fertility shrine, full of phalluses of all shapes and sizes, including a mighty carved log that gets carried about on festival days. It's on the north side of the river, not far from the better known Warei Shrine.
凸凹神堂
Located on the grounds of the Taga Shrine, this is essentially a three-story sex museum devoted to fertility and its graphical expressions. Two of them are found in the name: the kanji 凸 and 凹 usually mean "convex" and "concave" respectively, but the shrine's logo makes things clearer by placing the pointy bit under the one with the gap.
宇和島城 Uwajima-jō
Uwajima Castle occupies a strategic location at the heart of the city. Unlike most Japanese castles, it's actually an original (dating to 1665), not just a ferroconcrete shell. That said, the castle is comparatively small and modest.
和霊神社 Warei-jinja
A large, comparatively staid Shinto shrine, probably Uwajima's best-known attraction among the Japanese. Not worth a detour, but you'll be passing by on your way to the Taga Shrine anyway.
宇和島市立歴史資料館 Uwajima Shiritsu Rekisi Shiryōkan
One of the first Western-style buildings in Ehime Prefecture, it serves as a museum dedicated to the history of Uwajima. It is designated as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property.
牛相撲, ushizumō
It is Uwajima's main claim to fame. Two bulls decked out with holy ropes grapple each other by the horns and attempt to push each other out of a sumo ring. This is no modern gimmick, but an age-old tradition solemnly officiated by the same priests who run human sumo tournaments.
和霊大祭, warei taisai
This annual festival features not only bull sumo but a series of parades featuring Uwajima's symbol: the black-bearded and red-robed bull demon (牛鬼 ushioni). Book accommodation early if in town during festival time.
じゃこ天
Uwajima is well-known for this flat, oval fish cake made by processing fish (with bones and all). It is tasty, but has a gritty texture to it.
鯛めし
This is the local dish. It is sea bream/red snapper on top of dried kelp and gently boiled over rice in an unfinished earthenware pot. Variations occur up and down Ehime, but Uwajima style — raw and flavored with sake — is considered the principal upon which all others are built.
鯛そうめん
It uses the same hearty fish, but this dish's beauty is in the noodles sculpted into waves and the seasonal nature of its presentation. Dip the noodles and fish into the tai sauce before savoring.
伊予さつま
It is a dish made from fish mashed with mugimiso and stock. It creates a roasted, salty, sauce-like concoction. It is usually served over a bowl of hot rice.
一心
Seasonal seafood dishes, including the notorious fugu (for a premium), but chicken and beef as well.
かどや
A good place to sample the aforementioned taimeshi and other local specialties.
JRホテルクレメント宇和島
Business hotel connected to JR Uwajima Station, with a summer beer garden (18:00-21:00: ¥3600 all you can eat/drink).
ビジネスホテル しらかべ
Cheap accommodation suitable for a quick trip; free washing machine and Internet are included.
須の川公園キャンプ場 Sunokawa-kōen kyanpujō
A very pleasant seaside camping ground, located an hour down the road south from Uwajima on the way to Sukumo and Cape Ashizuri. Facilities include showers, toilets, barbecue pits and acres of grass.
うわじまＹＨ
On Atago Hill to the south of town, about 2 km from the train station (or an 8-minute taxi ride). They are closed on Sundays. They offer bike rentals and Internet access.
真珠会館
Primarily a pearl souvenir shop, but to ensure you're not rushed when considering a purchase, they've helpfully included a restaurant and a hotel (rooms from ¥4000 single) on the grounds. Pearl rings and necklaces can be custom-made to fit your budget; on the cheaper side, try some pearl candy (¥650 for 15 pieces). It's a little way out of town, north on the Uwajima Highway from the JR Takamitsu train station.
By bus
By remarkable coincidence, buses from Matsuyama to Uwajima also cost exactly ¥1750, but are a little faster than the regular trains.
Uwajima is fairly spread out, but the few sights of interest can be reached on foot from the center of town.
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