Shirabu Onsen

Rebuilt in traditional style after the fire, the "East Inn" is the newest and swankiest of the three here.

The annex of Nakaya ("Center Inn"), the only part that survived the blaze.

The "West Inn" is the only original thatched building left in Shirabu.

This rustic lodge is another 20 min up the hill from Shirabu, being the sole inn at Shin-Takayu Onsen (新高湯温泉). Despite ryokan prices, facilities more resemble a mountain hut, with basic home-style cooking, guests expected to lay out their futons and no shower facilities. But the bath selection is unparalleled: in addition to the indoor bath, there are 5 outdoor baths, ranging from two large rock baths with valley and waterfall views to tiny one-person nekko baths carved from hinoki tree trunks. The water is clear and virtually sulphurless, although there's a fair amount of harmless "onsen flowers" (visible mineral flakes) in it. All outdoor baths are mixed, although there's a slice reserved for women only. Free transfer to/from Shirabu bus stop.

The simplest and cheapest place to stay.