Onogawa Onsen

Cozy, smoky little den at the south edge of town, where locals come to slurp their noodles. Try the two local specialities, mamemoyashi ramen (with bean sprouts) and nameko-miso ramen (with slippery nameko mushrooms), and any of the tofu dishes freshly made by the tofu shop next door.

The largest and swankiest digs in Onogawa, Kajikasō is a gorgeous traditional wooden inn with a jumble of stairways wrapped around a central pond and garden, given a thorough but sensitive restoration in 2007. One outdoor bath, one indoor bath and one reservable private bath. The gourmet meals here are a cut above the average, with plenty of local ingredients, but pay a little extra and treat yourself to some prime Yonezawa beef. Free transfer to/from Yonezawa stn once daily.