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Miyoshi (Tokushima), Japan
Photo: (WT-en) Prestonpreston at English Wikivoyage, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
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The gorge formed by the Yoshino River is quite spectacular. The steepest and most rugged sections lie in the area between JR Koboke Station to the north and Tosa-Iwawhara Station to the south (with JR Oboke Station in the middle). Aside from rafting, pleasure boat tours are operated out of the Hotel Mannaka, offering views from within the gorge but without the need to get wet. The gorges can also be viewed by either walking or driving along Rt 32. A fairly decent sidewalk is set up along the road between the Oboke Michi-no-Eki (10 minute walk north of JR Oboke Station) and the WestWest rest area, through which the sheer rock cliffs blast up from the river. This walk takes about 30-40 minutes one way. The JR train line follows this route too (on the opposite side of the river). The train's views are occasionally obstructed by small tunnels, but it doesn't necessarily reduce the impressive sights too badly.
Japanese youkai (mythical monsters) are known to all, with their quirky ways and unique characteristics. Some are fun, some spooky, and others just plain weird, they are the sources of popular legends and have greatly influenced manga (comic book) and animation sub-cultures. As it goes, the area around Oboke/Koboke is actually the original home to many of these monsters (there are hundreds if not thousands of these throughout Japan), particularly some of the most popular ones. Supposedly the monsters have traditionally been lured to the danger of the area (rapids, steep gorge, etc) making the area the home to the highest concentration of monsters in Japan.
A monster museum. Large carvings of various monsters can be seen along roadsides in the area. More information, including maps, is available at the Michi no Eki.
This popular festival is held every November, with lots of costumes and events. It's great for kids and serious otaku.
Arranges half/full-day rafting trips from ¥5500/10000, mostly mid-spring to mid/late autumn (lunch included for full day). Canyoning is offered as well. A very chilled out group of experienced guides are here who seem to like having a good time. Good English is spoken by all the staff. Located just near Tosa-Iwahara station. Station pick-up from Oboke is also available. Cafe and accommodation services are also available as well.
Operated in conjunction with the Momonga Village Guesthouse, half and full day rafting trips are available either with or without lunch. Prices for half day start at ¥4000, and full day starts at about ¥9000
Local soba and udon are served along with a variety of Japanese sets. The menu is in English and the owner's charming wife speaks English decently as well. Lots of good travel info available.
In this large rest area are a 7-Eleven convenience store, and two restaurants:
徳島らーめん にし利
A cafe serving various lunch meals.
もみじ亭
A soba and noodle restaurant housed within a beautiful restored thatched roof farmhouse with garden, offering views of the river and gorge.
塩塚高原キャンプ場
The only campground in Yamashiro Town (home to Oboke and Koboke) is at Shiozuka Highlands, which is on the far western edge of the town near the border of Ehime Prefecture. The view from this large, neat facility is splendid and stars are plentiful on clear nights, and on some mornings the valley fog (unkai) can be quite spectacular. But it is a bit far from Oboke and not really convenient for rafting or hotsprings (but this pretty place is worthy of a day on its own). Tent sites start at about ¥2500, through a variety of bungalows and cabins can also be had (from ¥11,000-, paid per building, not per person). BBQ, showers, and camp equipment is available for rental. The campground is not accessible by public transportation. Note: outside of the main summer months it can be chilly at night due to the 800m+ elevation and the exposed, often windy plateau, so bring proper gear. Accordingly, it is closed in winter.
空音遊 Kūneruasobu
A hostel set in a traditional farmhouse in Oboke — the name means literally "eat, sleep and have fun". The owner is friendly and speaks great English. The communal vegetarian meals that are served are highly regarded. It's located within an old-style hillside community and is a little hard to reach if without a car, but the view down into the Oboke Gorge is lovely. Bathing is done at a nearby hotel (free rides given), which has outdoor baths that overlook the river. Free pick-ups given from Oboke Station.
モモンガビレッジゲストハウス
In a tranquil side valley up from the Yoshino River and central Yamashiro, this hostel-style guesthouse is set aside from the busier river area. International staff can help explain things and the place is connected with one of the rafting companies if you are looking for river thrills. Though a bit inconvenient if without your own car, the homely relaxed feel of the guesthouse more than makes up for the location. Pick up services to a few different bus stops. Free WiFi.
Overlooking the Yoshino River, four different guesthouses are on offer set in traditional-style homes, each with private rooms and self-contained kitchens. Very friendly staff will pick you up and drop you off from the train station and drive you to your guesthouse. You will need to bring your own food as there are no shops nearby or meals served. The owners also run a rafting company (see Happy Raft above) but you don't need to book a rafting trip to stay at the guesthouse (but lodging discounts are given for those who go rafting).
サンリバー大歩危
A large hotel with hot spring baths overlooking the Yoshino River Gorge.
大歩危峡まんなか
Convenient to Oboke Station and at the start of the side valley which leads to the Yokai statue course, this hotel has both Japanese style and Western rooms. Meals are excellent, with various courses of local food available. A hot spring bath overlooks the river here. The hotel also offers car rental and river boat cruise services.
賢見温泉
This hotspring hotel has a variety of affordable rooms on offer with different plans that either do/don't include meals. It's worth checking some of their set plans due to the value they offer.
The largest and newest of the rest areas, it includes a 7/11, a cafe & ramen restaurant, a souvenir shop, and a Mont Bell outdoor store with various hiking, camping, and rafting gear. Adjacent to the main building is a soba noodle restaurant (see section "Eat").
大歩危峡観光遊覧船
This large rest area is operated by the Hotel Mannaka and has a vast range of local souvigners across the road (beside the river) from the hotel. This is from where the river cruises depart (See Do for river cruise information).
道の駅大歩危
(Road Station rest stop) This large curvy wood building has 24-hour bathrooms, lots of local souvenirs, a cafe, and plenty of travel information. It also holds a paid museum about traditional Japanese mythical monsters (called "Yokai"), many of which have their origins in this area. Local travel information and brochures are available.
フルタニ
A fairly well stocked grocery store with fresh food, packaged goods, and alcohol. Convenient to anyone staying near or passing through the center of town.
歩危マート
It is a small, normal grocery store, and probably the best place to stock up in the area, especially if heading into Iya Valley.
By road
It is recommended to travel in this area by car.
By train
Both Oboke and Koboke have stations on the JR Dosan Line from Kochi to Takamatsu via Ikeda. Stops in Koboke are by local train only, though. Nearly all trains (including express) stop in Oboke.
By bus
Buses that come from Ikeda's Awa-Ikeda Bus Terminal (阿波池田ＢＴ) to Koboke and then Oboke (and then on to the Iya Valley) run sparsely.
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