Atami

Opened in 1982 to house some of the collection of spiritual leader Mokichi Okada (see box), the displays here run the gamut from Japanese calligraphy to Tang-dynasty pottery, with a roomful of Matisse, a tea room covered in gold leaf and Socialist-realist bronze sculptures thrown in for flavor. But there's a uniting thread to it all, as according to Okada, "Art must meet three conditions: it must be true, it must be good, and it must be beautiful." No falsehood, evil, or ugliness; no death, no old age, no sickness; no sorrow, no hate, no pain, no lust. The overall effect is a little eerie, but beautiful just the same and well worth a visit. The entrance to the museum is particularly striking.

If lolling about in hot water has gotten you all hot and bothered, this overpriced erotic museum will fan the flames a bit. Nearly every Japanese hot spring town used to have one of these, but they've very much an endangered species now and this is one of the few left in the entire country. Adults (18 or older) only.

While the Atami Castle was built in 1959 (the castle is, therefore, not a real historical site, but rather a tourist spot), it is still an interesting place to visit - there's a small museum collecting information about samurai, ukiyo-e (adult only), and castles in Japan. There's also a panoramic view on top, and a trick art museum there.

A smaller and unspectacular onsen mostly frequented by locals.