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Comune in Tuscany, Italy
Photo: William Domenichini, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Siena is a walled city in Tuscany, known for its cuisine, art, museums, medieval cityscape and a colourful horse race, Il Palio, conducted twice each year in the summer. Siena's centro storico, a , is extremely picturesque, and from high towers, you can see the beautiful countryside that still largely surrounds the city. With a few notable exceptions (including the pretty yellow colour of the sunflowers that are cultivated for oil for export), the Sienese countryside looks almost the same as it did in Medieval paintings. Siena is 70 km (43 mi) south of Florence.
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Town Hall
This striking structure has functioned as Siena's City Hall for almost 800 years and is probably the building that most recognizably represents Siena. It contains (among many other things) the famous frescoes on good and bad government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, frescoes by Simone Martini and Duccio, and access to the Torre del Mangia, from the top of which you can view a beautiful panorama of the Sienese countryside. The frescoes on good and bad government and their effects on the city and surrounding countryside (painted 1338-1339), probably Ambrogio Lorenzetti's greatest masterpieces, are in the Sala dei Nove, where the Council of Nine who ruled the city state in the early 14th century could see them and, it was hoped, would keep them close to mind while making important decisions. These frescoes and Duccio's Maestà in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo are the most important paintings in Siena and for many people represent highlights of a visit to this city, but there are many other beautiful things to see in the Palazzo Pubblico, so allow some time (preferably a couple of hours) to view them all. This building's exterior is equally beautiful and includes a lovely marble chapel, the Cappella di Piazza, which is at the foot of the Torre di Mangia. Built in 1352, it is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, as was the entire city after it avoided annihilation in the devastating black plague of 1348.
Piccolomini Palace
One of the most popular sites on the Piazza del Campo, it was built in 1459 by the well-known architect Bernardo Rossellino, disciple of Leon Battista Alberti. This Florentine-style palazzo is home to the official archives of Siena.
Sansedoni Palace
Opposite the Palazzo Pubblico, it is another beautiful Gothic building on the Campo.
Gaia Fountain
The fountain sculpted in 1419 by the great Sienese sculptor, Jacopo della Quercia, is a focal point of the piazza. The remains of the original sculptures can be viewed in the loggia of the Palazzo Pubblico (see above), but the appearance of the fountain, composed of copies made in 1858, is not bad and remains a major sight in this city.
Siena Cathedral
Siena's magnificent black and white Italian Romanesque cathedral includes the Libreria Piccolomini, with splendid frescoes by Pinturicchio, the lovely Baptistery (separate entrance and charge), and an attached museum (separate entrance and charge, see below). Also marvel at the inlaid floors; even as they are sometimes covered for protection, a section is always left visible. At the height of Siena's power it was decided to enlarge the cathedral so that the existing Duomo would become merely its transept; the money ran out very soon after one of the new outer walls, which is still standing as a reminder of the grandiose undertaking, was completed. It is possible to see all of this in one day, but expect it to take at least the better part of an afternoon.
Museum of the Works of the Cathedral
This museum includes the famous Maestà by Duccio and many other great works by Sienese masters. After you've seen all the art, you can also treat yourself to a beautiful panorama from Il Facciatone, the tower in this building. The view is about as good as the one from the Torre del Mangia in the Palazzo Pubblico but somewhat different, although if you are rushed for time, pick one tower to climb (either one).
Siena National Gallery
The Pinacoteca is full of Sienese paintings from the city's Medieval heyday.
Salimbeni Palace
Accademia Chigiana
This is another Gothic palazzo, or at least its façade remains Gothic, though the interior was modernized in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The building since 1932 has housed housed the Accademia Chigiana, the city's conservatory of music. Quite a number of beautiful paintings are part of its collection, but the rooms that house the artwork are often used for classes and rehearsals or simply locked up when not in use, so if you would like to view its holdings, you will probably need to get permission in advance and make an appointment.
Tolomei Palace
This lovely palazzo was built between 1205 and 1212 by the Tolomei family when the area was outside of the city walls. Now, it is well within the walls and on the way from the Campo to Piazza Salimbeni.
This large, austere Gothic basilica (usually simply called San Domenico) is not only dedicated to St. Catherine of Siena, along with St. Dominic, but was frequented by her and contains a period portrait of her by Andrea Vanni and relics including her head. It also features several other works by Sienese Gothic painters and impressively high vaulted ceilings. It is quite close to the long-distance bus stop, so if you are going to or from Siena by bus and have the time even to briefly enter this house of prayer, do.
This Romanesque church was turned into a Gothic one and contains some notable Gothic art, including a moving fresco of the Crucifixion by Pietro Lorenzetti and one of the Martyrdom of Five Franciscan Brothers by his brother, Ambrogio.
Santuario di Santa Caterina
In this house lived the 14th-century mystic who is one of the principal patron saints of Italy. If you are a devotee, it is natural to combine a visit here with a visit to San Domenico, but even if you are not a devotee, if you have the time, you are likely to find your visit interesting.
Built as a Gothic church, it was damaged by fire in 1747 and was renovated with some Baroque additions and further added to in the 19th century. However, the main draws for the lover of paintings are from well before the fire and include an Enthroned Madonna with Child and Saints by the 14th-century Ambrogio Lorenzetti and a Crucifixion by the 15th-16th-century Perugino.
This Romanesque church is much smaller than the huge edifices of the Duomo and San Domenico, but it contains some notable art including a Coronation of the Virgin and Saints by Bernardino Fungai, a Massacre of the Innocents attributed to Pietro Lorenzetti and collaborators and an Adoration of the Shepherds by Taddeo Di Bartolo.
This medieval fountain is the oldest in Siena, built in its current form in 1246. It is the original, not a replica. Not surprisingly, it is somewhat worn and overgrown in places, but still impressive and beautiful, and would be a top sight in most other cities.
This medieval hospital, now a museum, is chock-full of medieval art including altarpieces by Bartolommeo Bulgarini and frescoes by the Lorenzetti brothers and Simone Martini. Also part of the complex (no additional admission charge) is the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, which exhibits some important archeological finds from the area, plus items from public and private collections of antiquities that are mostly from Siena and Chiusi.
A horse race like nowhere else, between the 17 contrade of Siena, is run in the Piazza del Campo on July 2 and August 16. All Sienese are affiliated with one of the contrade, to which a typical Sienese feels loyal with a strength perhaps surpassed only by their loyalty to their family. Since the 11th century, the Sienese have conducted festivals every year in which the contrade compete for renown (and in times gone by, actual political power) through contests such as flag throwing, horse racing and even fist fights. The fist fights no longer happen (a heavy police presence in the weeks prior to the contest sees to that), but the spirit of competition between contrade is still fierce. The race is held in late evening but the whole day of the race is taken up with processions through the streets of the various contrade competing in the particular race (only ten can compete at any time for safety reasons).
During summer.
Outside the Due Porte.
Not far from the above Nonna Gina. Menu will be in Italian but the waiters and the cooks will be available for a translation "on the fly". Fish is served one week a month. If you happen to be there in that week, don't miss the "Tonno alla Mediterranea" (tuna fish in the Mediterranean way).
This is also an excellent restaurant, in the contrada of the same name.
Restaurant off the beaten path, with owners who serve you personally; the waitress speaks fluently English & German (very rare in Italy) and knows how to recommend you wine, as she is also a wine tour guide. Is a pleasant walk downhill shortly outside the gates of the city, allowing you to look up at the top of the Duomo.
A bakery and cafe with an excellent selection of Tuscan pastries: Ricciarelli, Cavalucci, Cantucci, Panforte, etc. The ingredients of same are prominently displayed in most cases, making Nannini a very attractive option for the travelling vegan.
Has a splendid atmosphere in a medieval undercroft environment and excellent Italian cuisine served in a decorative haute style.
La Birreria
Best priced drinks and food in Il Campo. Sit outside at a table in the central Piazza.
Great live music, but a bit on the seedy side.
Cool pub with Australian ambiance doing cool music.
About 3 km east from the city centre and up the hill from the rail station. It is quite a large campsite and has all the facilities and a swimming pool. As of 2012, you can rent cabins with toilet/shower for 2/3/4/5 persons (€65/80/105/115 per night, maybe cheaper when booked through traveling sites).
Beyond the small village of Sovicille about 12 km from Siena with regular bus connections. It's a decent site with basic facilities but quite friendly and helpful staff.
Tuscany self catering accommodations in the Chianti hills 7 km from Siena with swimming pool, ping-pong and a romantic park. Monaciano has many farmhouses that may comfortably accommodate large families or large groups of friends.
Alma Domus
Run by a nunnery, this modest hotel near the Basilica di S. Domenico provides sanctuary to weary travellers. Curfew is 23:00.
3-star hotel that offers free shuttle service for the Spa San Giovanni Rapolano Terme.
Via della Sapienza n°15 (just down the street from San Domenico) (use Italian or simple English if you email) - dated but clean rooms in a tiny, centrally-located inn. A truly friendly older couple owns and runs it, and lives on the property (they leave their door open often). The great thing is the view of Siena - spectacular, as you look across the unobstructed valley and almost down at the Piazza del Campo and Duomo. The two rooms at the back have the view. They also have good tips on the best inexpensive dining, which is fabulous. At midnight they lock the doors and go to bed. Double with bath €85, without bath €65.
Via Donzelle 3. You can't beat the location; it's just a couple of steps up from the Campo. Clean, renovated, has a nice common room with a small balcony right over Banchi di Sotto - the final leg of the route towards the Campo taken by the constant parades of the contrada which won the latest palio (these last for a few weekends after the event, and can mean a group of thoroughly drunk stragglers accompanied by costumed drummers and banner-wavers at 2 in the morning - this is not frowned upon by the locals); as you go up the stairs to the rooms there is also a display of the riding accessories of the Civetta, the small but very proud contrada where the hotel is located (it finally won the Palio in August of '09 after waiting for more than 30 years, earning in the process the dubious distinction of being the nonna, or "Grandma", as the contrada who haven't won for the longest time). Doubles with bath around €90 in season; curfew at 01:00. Also, a slightly more downmarket cousin Tre Donzelle next door up at #5; a (smaller, more spartan) room will run you €10-15 cheaper. Skip the restaurant in the basement, unless you are after the heavily promoted barrel-vault interior; food is unexceptional and overpriced.
Piazza La Lizza. Situated inside the walls, the NH Excelsior is elegant and pleasant, and has easy access to the city’s main attractions. The hotel, which has been completely refurbished, has 129 rooms all of which offer comfort and a modern design.
Via Garibaldi, 72, inside the walls of Siena. There are 59 bedrooms with bathrooms, phone, TV, safe deposit box, air conditioning, fridge-bar, laundry service, fast internet facility. The bedrooms have a view of old Siena. A meeting room is available. Garage. Ten minutes' walk from Piazza del Campo. 500 m from the railway station.
Le Meridiane is across the valley from the city centre and provides a lovely view of Siena, which can be reached by bus, by taxi or (during daylight and with good shoes) by foot. Several types of unit are available for a range of prices. A small kitchen is provided, and parking is available.
A typical farmhouse hotel with swimming pool. It offers a selection of studio apartments and en-suite rooms in a country and friendly atmosphere.
4-star hotel in historical residence, Siena centre. Rooms from €99.
About 7 km east of Siena, close to the SS73 highway. Situated in the middle of a rural landscape next to a vineyard and a small village. Convenient only if you have access to a car, in which case, it's easy to get to and from Siena.
Beautiful holiday house pet friendly with pool and vacation rental apartments near Siena.
3-star hotel. The hotel has a Love Room for romantic moments.
4-stars hotel with restaurant, outdoor pool and panoramic terrace. With Hotel Italia and Villa Agostoli, the Hotel Garden is one of the hotels in Siena of the company Siena Inns.
Beautiful 4-star hotel and restaurant immersed in vineyards and olive groves of the Tuscan countryside 12 km from Siena. Also does weddings and meetings.
A bed and breakfast-style hotel, renovated in 2005, in the historical centre of Siena, with amazing view onto the old town.
Splendid aristocratic residence originating in the early 1600s, in the countryside, ten minutes' drive from the historical centre of Siena. It incorporates eight spacious apartments, which may host up to seven persons. It is complemented by the Dependence, a holiday home to the same standard. Each of the eight spacious apartments is a synthesis of comfort, elegant style, traditional taste and modern functionality.
If you have a car then you can drive out to the Montestigliano Olive estate 12 km outside the walls, perched high on a hill surrounded by olive trees. You can taste and buy their single estate, extra virgin olive oil (as well as a few other goodies) to take with you or have shipped. There is also a lovely courtyard where you can sit and enjoy a glass of wine and admire the view.
By train
From the north, trains go about hourly directly from Florence to Siena, and otherwise it is possible to take any train that stops in Empoli and find train connections from Empoli to Siena every 30–60…
By bus
By far the easiest way to get to Siena from Florence (though the train journey is much more picturesque) is to take the Tiemme SpA bus (depart from a small underground bus depot across the street, to…
By car
From the north, take the Chiantigiana from Florence (SS 222 – 72 km) that elegantly crosses the hills of Chianti or the highway (SS 2 superstrada Siena/Firenze - 68 km).
By bus
Google maps shows the location of all bus stops within the city. If you zoom in and click the bus symbol on the map, you will get a list of bus routes serving that stop.
On foot
Siena is a city (a small city, yes, but it isn't like one of the tiny hill towns) and the attractions away from the Campo/Duomo area are spread out on three steep hills, so walking is a necessity.
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