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Place in Samaná, Dominican Republic
Photo: Danu Widjajanto, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Las Terrenas is a small city in Samaná Province on the northeast coast of the Dominican Republic, notable for its miles and miles of beautiful, golden sand public beaches, combining a modest but full-service tourist infrastructure with an authentic Dominican town. It's also a jumping-off point for the nearby Limón Waterfall, popular for hiking and as a freshwater swimming hole.
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The town's central beach is located right in the tourist downtown, with the most picturesque portion next to the river mouth and the boat-shaped shopping center. Located within a wide cove lined with a coastal road, mid-range resorts, beach restaurants, and local fishing boats, it stretches for many kilometers in either direction, wrapping around the points to merge into Playa las Ballenas in the west and Playa Punta Popy in the east.
Maybe the area's most talked-about beach, a long walk or a 10-minute motoconcho ride from town. Includes a long, almost straight stretch of beach popular for swimming and playing in the waves, as well as a calmer, prettier section stretching north from the east end with beautiful backdrops of jungle and rock formations. The beach is among the country's top surf locations.
This "hidden beach" is accessible via an unmarked, 5-minute hiking trail from the very northeastern tip of Playa Bonita. Less crowded, and with a wider sand area, but without much shade. Framed on two ends by pretty hills, through straight behind it is a meadow with a hotel in the distance.
Around the corner to the west from Playa Las Terrenas, Playa Las Ballenas could arguably be called the prettiest of the beaches, with wide sandy shores, plenty of coconut trees, and a more relaxed, suburban vibe. Between this beach and the downtown are several beach bars of the type consisting of a hut and seating stuck right on the sand.
Comfortable, shaded dining area right on one of the more picturesque parts of the beach. Good thin-crust pizza and high-quality salads.
Open-air dining with friendly Haitian owners and a touch of extra style, located a bit away from the beach on the eastern side of the tourist triangle.
Burger stand with pretty good hamburgers and pulled-pork sandwiches at a great price. Shares the space with a good barbecue stand. Outside of the main tourist area, but near the Lindo Supermarket and Scotiabank. Burger/sandwich stand opens at 5pm, barbecue at 3pm.
Another place in the real downtown for a cheap snack. Local mini-cafe with freshly-made fruit juice, fruit plates, and decent small sandwiches.
The best known of the beach hut bars in Las Terrenas, located around the western point just before Playa la Ballenas. Has a bar, tables, and beach recliners, and the beach in front of it is a popular wading spot. Another similar bar is next door, so you can compare which atmosphere and menu you prefer.
The cheapest accommodation we found within the tourist zone, separated from the beach by the (beautifully-painted) cemetery wall but just a two-minute walk from the water. Small ground-level rooms in outbuildings tucked into a cute garden behind restaurant. Our room was quite small and a little dark with a hilariously tilted floor, but most things worked, and it got the job done.
Another lower-end option along the cemetery-wall strip, but a good value for the money. The second-floor room we stayed in had a slight sea view, was reasonably spacious, and had lots of natural light as well as air-conditioning. Nothing was broken. Very friendly owner.
Seems to be the only place near the beach with dorm-style hostel accommodations, though still not as cheap as the cheapest hotels. We didn't end up staying here, but open-air hangout area looked pretty nice. Right across the street from the Punta Popy beach, but a bit of a walk from the tourist shopping district.
Good quality studio apartment-style rooms (4 to a cottage) within a very pleasant garden. Slightly off the main coastal road but within a 2-minute walk to the beach. Also not far from the tourist center, easily walkable. Our room had a kitchen and hot water. There was no air-conditioning, but we rarely missed it because the room was very breezy (windows with screens on three sides) and had a good ceiling fan. Very chill and helpful staff.
Simple rooms. Really good food. Pleasant environment.
Located about 20m to the beach, in the less touristic part of the town. Rooms are clean, spacious, and functional. The estate is a beautiful oasis of plants and flowers. The staff is nice and helpful. Safes for storage of valuable items are available in the rooms free of cost.
By bus
Guagua routes exist from Santo Domingo (express guagua), Sanchez, and Samana. If you feel adventurous, you can also take a pickup truck or a motoconcho (with trailer) from Samana over the mountains.
By car
Las Terrenas is about a two-hour drive from Santo Domingo, along a fully-paved road that was in very good condition as of September 2020.
By motorbike or scooter
It's perfectly feasible to travel around Samana province - and probably much farther - on a motorbike or even a moped-style motor scooter (pasola in Dominican Spanish).
By boat
Traveling to Las Terrenas from Punta Cana by guaguas and ferry (Sábana del Mar-Samaná) will take about 8h, but is certainly possible within one day.
Motorconchos (motorcycle taxis)
Motoconchos are everywhere and very convenient.
Guagua or collective taxis
You can catch guaguas in town and they can go a greater distance, ex. to the waterfall in El Limon. For guaguas to Limon, try the three-way intersection at the entrance to the town cemetery.
Scooters or 4x4
You can rent a motor scooter for about $20 US per day (verified Sep. 2020) or a 4-wheeler for about $40-50 US. These modes of transportation seem most common for visitors.
Rental car
Some of the rental agencies also have jeeps or small cars, starting from about US$55 per day.
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Samana · Regional · AZS
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