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Town and commune in Antofagasta, Chile
Photo: Javivi moaxaja, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
San Pedro de Atacama is a town of 3,899 (2012) in Northern Chile. San Pedro is a very popular destination among Chilean tourists and international visitors looking for a desert experience and a stepping stone to the amazing landscapes around it. Most attractions are part of the Los Flamencos National Reserve, perhaps Chile's most varied and amazing national park.
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4200 m above sea level, and some 100 km away from town, these are one of the highest geysers in the world. It's also the third-largest geyser site on Earth, with over 80 active ones. Most agencies travel there at 04:00. The spectacle is hard to forget-even if the geysers themselves are smallish, the backdrop, lighting, and sheer variety are astounding. Usually, you get to see them from the first stages of dawn, an hour before the sun rises, until sunlight bathes them completely. The best time to take pictures is at exact sunrise, but other lightings can also create wonderful pictures. Some tour companies already have breakfast and leave for the hot springs before the sun even touches the ground, so make sure you pick one that explicitly promises you that you will have sunrise in the geyser valley.
Commonly advertised as 'Moon Valley' in English, this part of the Salt Mountain Range offers stunning clinal and anticlinal formations in a perfectly barren landscape. Almost all tours include watching the sunset there—you shouldn't miss it. The large stone walls resemble those of the Grand Canyon in Arizona, sans river. There are also huge halite (rock salt) strata that produce a knocking sound all day long. This can be unsettling at first, but it's actually harmless. Among its prime attractions are the Grand Crater, the Salt Canyon, the Three Maries and salt mines, the Salt Caves, the Cari Viewpoint (also called 'Piedra del Coyote'), and Valle de Marte (Mars Valley). All tours visit a number of these, but it's virtually impossible to know which beforehand. Summer tours tend to be longer, though, and therefore have a greater probability of including more destinations.
Feel like visiting the Atacama salt pan, a picturesque village, and some Alp-lookalikes in a single day? Plus eating some local food? Then consider this tour, usually advertised as 'Altiplanic Lagoons', the tour varies very little, if at all, between agencies. You'll be visiting the village of Toconao, renowned for its church and bell-tower; Laguna Chaxa, a national reservation which three species of flamingos inhabit year-round, located at the heart of the Atacama salt pan; Miscanti and Miñiques lagoons, located above 4000 m, and home to a variety of local fauna; and Socaire, a tiny hamlet that lives from selling lunch to tourists-it usually includes home-grown potatoes, big beans, carrots, and quinoa, plus a few other things. There are two different tours, one from 07:00 to 14:00 (half-day), with breakfast but no lunch, and another leaving town at 07:00, and returning at 18:00 (full-day), including lunch and the impressing Piedras Rojas.
This is one amazing location in summer! Set in the northern tip of the Atacama salt pan, this location offers a splendid panorama of the Andes, and the possibility to bathe in waters as salty as those of the Dead Sea, meaning you can float in the without drowning, even if you cannot swim. The landscape's also remarkable. It usually ends with sunset, along a simple cocktail with pisco sour. The tour sets off at variable times (since Chile follows daylight saving time), but always in the afternoon between 15:00 and 16:00. Besides the Cejar and Piedra lagoons, excursions usually stop by the 'Ojos del Salar' (Eyes of the Salt Pan), two freshwater eyes very close together, and lake Tebenquinche, a water mirror that offers the absolute best sunsets in the whole area-imagine the mountains slowly changing colors, from yellow to pink, and that same image reflected on the lake's perfect surface!
It's perhaps San Pedro's best-kept secret. Or not. It really depends on your interests. The road is long, but well-paved, until you reach the entrance to the most remote part of the Los Flamencos national reservation: Monjes de la Pacana (Pacana Monks). The place is well above 4500 m: Consider it carefully, as it's not uncommon for people to get altitude sickness. After that, it's a visit to some peculiar stone formations, obsidian quarries, more stone towers (called 'Catedrales'), and the huge Tara salt lake. Fauna is abundant, and particular to that environment. The landscape is stunning at all times-it's easy to catch glimpses of Bolivia here and there, as well. Traffic is light, as this destination's not really popular. If that matters to you, then taking this tour is the perfect way of saying 'I was off the beaten track of San Pedro de Atacama'. The schedule's a lot more flexible than in other tours, so harass the driver and guide as much as you like. There are a few optional treks along the way, but they're difficult to attempt.
Rainbow Valley
It features three different parts, all of them interesting
Mars Valley
Like most deserts, Atacama has its share of dunes and sand-banks. The most popular is located here. All sandboarding tours will take you there. The dune is almost 100 m in height; still, the typical track is barely a fraction of that. Some of them offer also to watch sunset in the Moon Valley-but be aware that you won't visit any of its spots, except the Great Dune or the Cari Viewpoint.
They're commonly called 'Hot Springs', but that name couldn't be more of a misnomer. The Puritama (means 'hot water' in Kunza) is actually a warm river, that breaks loose from the stone a few meters away from the actual place. Water temperature usually is around 33ºC. It is amazingly clear and pure, and hosts a budding population of rainbow trout (don't worry, they're tiny and harmless). The "hot springs" are property of Hotel Explora, a five-star brand located in all of Chile's hot spots. The facilities are basic, yet elegant and extremely functional. If you can spare the money, you won't regret it; the landscape's stunning, and the water perfect. Ancient agricultural terraces line the canyon-sides, along with massive stone walls, and even some cacti.
Vegetarian restaurant. The food's excellent, as is the service. They can be a bit sluggish, though, and the whole restaurant's a non-smoking area.
A bit overpriced, but offers a quiet and secluded atmosphere, along excellent food and competitive prices for beer.
Has a mixed clientèle: half of them will be locals, the other half being lucky tourists. This restaurant has the best salads and sandwiches in all of San Pedro. Their spaghetti with mushrooms is also remarkable. If they offer meat on the Menú, expect it to be top-notch. The prices are not the cheapest, but more than justified. The waiters are slow, though, so it may pay to press the cashier into sending someone your way, and paying him/her directly.
caters especially to younger people; expect it to be chock-full at the evening, as its customers prepare to party later.
carries typical dishes from Chile's center. It's expensive, but will also give you some insight to the best Chilean "parrilladas", the local grill. Expect cow's tongue, blood sausages, and more.
Beer pub; no other drink is served there. Friendly and warm atmosphere.
This walk at night is usually very dark, but safe; bring flashlights. The hotel has excellent rooms with very good bathrooms, plenty of hot water. There are safes in each room but they are small. Good early breakfast, lunch and dinner. There is free Internet available in reception although somewhat slow. The staff was extremely cordial and very helpful. Laundry on the premises within 24 hr. Outdoor swimming pool.
A good place with affordable prices and friendly owner. All rooms have private bathrooms.
Lack of amenities makes it unfavorable. Private rooms, some with private bathrooms. Hot water was rare, even when requested specifically; water altogether was sometimes inexplicably absent.
Pleasant courtyard with hammocks, free Internet, usable if not fantastic kitchen, shared showers not great, but decent value for San Pedro. Accommodation in matrimonial, twin and triple rooms, with or without bathroom. Bedrooms slightly chilly at night in the winter. The manager could be friendlier, but you cannot really get picky at this price.
A small, simple, budget, clean and warm-hearted place to stay. Accommodation in matrimonial, twin and triple rooms, with shared bathroom. Kitchen facilities on request. Bilingual staff (Spanish and English).
Free, slow Internet in the lobby. Outdoor, basic kitchen. No breakfast. Staff are extremely rude and unhelpful and enforce a number of strict rules including kitchen closing times at 20:30 and internet shutdown at 19:00 making the stay uncomfortable. They do not store luggage which is very unconvienient for those with evening buses. Not recommended if you plan on visiting the geyers and leaving San Pedro on an afternoon or evening bus that same day. Television in communal reception only available to the child of the family.
A quiet hostel with a large central courtyard, small and nice dorm rooms. Includes hammocks, small kitchen and free internet. Lack of water at night time - common in Atacama - and no possibility to store your luggage after checkout, nor stay in the hostel premises. Kitchen closed before 08:00 and after 21:00, no hot water early in the morning. The people working there are polite and helpful.
Super friendly atmosphere. One of the cheapest places in town but helpful staff (not overly fluent in English though). They organize asados (barbecues) from time to time and at most times there are people playing music and having a good time. Kitchen is kind of basic. They have a camping too. Most of the time there's hot water. Wifi speed is decent.
Very friendly backpackers atmosphere. There's music, hammocks, and a picnic table in the common area and usually people to chat with in the evenings. WiFi works well and there are two computers for public use. The employees are very friendly and helpful too.
By plane
No airlines fly direct to San Pedro. The nearest commercial airport is Calama. Most flights are direct, and connect Calama with Santiago, but a few also fly to Antofagasta and Iquique.
By car
At the Calama airport you may rent a car. Car rentals are fairly expensive, however, for Calama is Chile's largest mining hub, and therefore rentals offer mostly medium pick-up trucks.
By thumb
Chile is well-known as a hitchhiker's paradise. Getting to Calama from any other point in the country is simple enough, but reaching San Pedro is a bit trickier.
By bicycle
Bicycles can be rented in town: 3,000 pesos for 6 hr, 6,000 pesos full day. The rental usually includes warning vest, helmet, lamp, first aid kit, and pump.
By car
This is the most authentic, least stressful and, depending on the number of people, the cheapest way to do San Pedro and its sights. It is also far easier than you might believe.
By tour
All important sights around San Pedro can be visited with a tour offered by one of the 150 booking offices in town.
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Calama · Regional · CJC
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