
City in Kampong Cham, Cambodia
Photo: User: (WT-shared) Dent Arthur at wts wikivoyage, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Kampong Cham is the seventh largest city in Cambodia, but a relatively small city. It has yet to be heavily visited like Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. It carries with it plenty of colonial French charm, and has a genuine "wild west" feel to it. Most travellers who do find themselves in Kampong Cham are in transit to elsewhere in the country, but those who choose to spend at least a couple of days in the provincial capital will enjoy the laid back atmosphere and quaint charm.
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Formerly used by B52 bombers. There is not much left to see apart from the pavement of the airstrip and two decaying buildings next to it, a pillbox and the control tower probably. Leaving the airstrip on the left (west) will eventually lead to Mountain Pros and Srey. Going right (east) to the end of the strip and turning right again will lead you back to Kampong Cham.
Traditional Cambodian dances
There are occasional performances at 17:00, mainly on weekends and holidays, behind (east of) Wat Nokor (Nokor Bachey Temple) by the children and teenagers looked after and educated by BSDA, a non-governmental organisation (NGO) located at the temple site and managed by the monks. Entrance is free, donations are certainly welcome. Performances seem to be mainly on request, and the children and teenagers will be very happy to show off their talents.
A solid bamboo structure built on Koh Paen Island across the Mekong. On the other side are Cham and Khmer villages, entirely mounted on stilts. This is a great place to drive along if you want to check out the people. The bamboo bridge can even withstand trucks, so don't worry about whatever you're taking, just be careful not to fall into the river. The bridge is washed away as the river rises in the wet season, and access to the island is only possible by boat, but it is rebuilt again every dry season.Sometimes the locals might try to charge you a dollar for walking across, which is much more than the local toll.
Once used for monitoring river traffic. It's still standing but in a decaying state. You can climb the stairs inside the tower and have a good view on the bridge, the Mekong and the small village next to the tower. The stairs are difficult and dangerous to climb, and there is a hornet's nest at the top.
An Angkorian temple dating from the 11th century, containing a standard assortment of Angkor architecture. Some of the mausoleums are open to tourists and contain piles of bones and skulls from the Khmer Rouge's genocidal reign. Inside one of the buildings is a very elaborate series of wall paintings, depicting torture and executions (of a religious nature), followed by scenes of heaven and the afterlife. This is not always an accessible building, as a monk has to unlock it for you. He usually does, though your driver may ask you to refrain. The tourist police may ask you for money for their own purposes. If you are stingy, you can enter the temple from the other side for free. Don't miss the beautiful sunset in the old Angkorian ruins. The visit to this site can easily be combined with a trip to Pros and Srei Mountains.
Temple on a hilltop. The view of the beautiful Cambodian landscape on the way there makes it worth it! If you can make it up very early (around 05:00) you'll see a gorgeous sunrise over the Mekong.
West of the city are a pair of "mountains", with temples on top of them. It makes an easy ride on a bicycle, but road traffic can be heavy by Cambodian standards. Mt Pros has a dull peak and is approximately 30 m tall. There are a series of temples at the top, with the centrepiece being a five pagoda temple. There are outlying temples, most of which are ruined and falling apart. Sip sugar cane juice from one of the many stalls on the top while watching the monkeys fooling around and stealing bananas from the vendors tables. The Mt Srey has 308 steps running up it, with a ruined temple at the top. There are no monks at this one, but there are several women and old men who collect donations from visitors. Between the two mountains lies one of the country's many killing fields where the Khmer Rouge dumped countless bodies, though in this case it's nothing more than a cement shed and a pile of bones.
One of the few remaining wooden pagodas in Cambodia, it is really quite beautiful. You'll probably need a local guide to find it, or ask your tuk-tuk driver. Nearby is a village known for its weaving. You can see silk being weaved and dyed and, of course, there is always some for sale.
A registered NGO running several charitable projects for the local community. This includes Mekong Kampuchea's Kids Project (a street children's theatre), Natural Resource Management and livelihood project (food security and livelihood for single women and the poorest of the poor), Education Project (School For Life, vocational training and life skills), Health Project (HIV/AIDS Prevention and Harm Reduction Drug Abuse Project), and as well as a Social Accountability Project (good governance). There are opportunities for volunteering.
Run by a community-based NGO that enables rural youth to access employment and high quality vocational training. The cafe serves fresh and vibrant quality food that is a relief to the travelling foreigner! The coffee house also has a reputation for its delicious home made cakes and cookies (~US$1.50), as well as its real espresso. The décor is clean and crisp, and the complimentary Wi-Fi makes it a great place to relax. Some travellers report that it is frequently closed.
Large restaurant, very tourist friendly, and serves plenty of genuine Khmer food, as well as other Asian cuisine. Excellent place to lounge about and drink beer and good for shared dishes.
Very similar to Mekong Crossing. The style of the place and its menu targetsmainly foreign customers. French owner, Frank. Try the Mekong fish with lemon sauce. Has a free pool table and good music. In the tourist season they run a sunset cruise and also have a couple of bicycles and motorbikes for rent.
A popular restaurant run by an American expat, this small place serves up a variety of Western foods, including burgers, pasta and pizza. The Khmer food is heavily Westernised. Free Wi-Fi.
Cheap, tasty tofu and seafood dishes for around. Try the seaweed curry.
The smartest eatery in town. Run by a local NGO, Buddhism and Society Development Association, (BSDA) as a training restaurant for orphans and vulnerable youth, it serves tasty Khmer and Western dishes and the décor is a cut above everywhere else. The food is good quality, but many of the Khmer dishes are quite similar. Try the delicious fruit shakes. There is a relaxed atmosphere in the restaurant, with a few sofas having a view of the Mekong. If you’re around with your laptop, it's one of the few eateries in town offering free Wi-Fi. Prices are reasonable, and you're helping a good cause.
New Bridge Restaurant
Standard Khmer and Asian restaurant. It's quite large, with oversized doors that never close as long as it's open, though without a doubt you'll remember this place for its wacky menu. The food is of great quality, but rarely matches what's on the menu. Still, since it's good food regardless of what arrives at your table and you aren't charged more (or perhaps because the staff don't speak much English), be a good patron and don't complain.
Cheap, but not the cleanest room in town.
Eco-friendly resort overlooking the Mekong River. Offers around 20 very clean rooms with private bathrooms and Wi-Fi. Bamboo eco-cottages come with fans, while bungalows have air-conditioning. All rooms have double, king, or queen-sized beds. Facilities include an outdoor pool, yoga and meditation classes at the Bamboo Lotus Hall, and a restaurant serving Khmer and Western dishes. Operated by the NGO BSDA, with proceeds supporting community projects. Tours to explore the local area are available.
Rooms come with fan, cold shower and TV. While the windowless single rooms are merely OK, the double rooms are much better value. Compared to other guesthouses the rooms are large (about the size you can expect in the hotels around) and there is a nice balcony with good views of the river.
The standard is almost identical to the Mittapheap Hotel. It is mainly the view from the upper floor rooms that is better. The drawback is its location a bit outside of the centre. The rooms are OK and come with a fan, cold shower and TV and optional air-con and hot shower.
Hotel facing the Mekong with cosy rooms and a decent, if slightly pricey restaurant. Staff are friendly and willing to help with travel plans, but may push their own services first. Lobby has comfortable chairs, book exchange and free Wi-Fi.
This place seems to be very popular, but probably not for the quality of the rooms but rather the massage services provided. The staff hardly speak any English. It might be a place to consider if the other options are full.
High quality, spotlessly clean, spacious and inviting rooms. The best rooms look like little palaces, with beautiful Khmer-style furniture. Stunning views of the river, even better than the views of Mekong Hotel.
Traditional Khmer house. Home cooked meals with home grown food in a country setting. A couple of pleasant walks can be taken from there. Phone or email in advance to check occupancy due to small number of rooms.
Very large and good quality rooms. A quiet, family-run establishment with helpful staff.
The rooms are basic, but OK.
By car
Hwy 7 from Kampong Cham to Skun is in excellent condition and one of the best in Cambodia. Shortly after Skun however, the quality declines dramatically with frequent potholes and unpaved stretches.
By bus
To get from Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham, there are several bus options. The standard rules for buses apply here.
By boat
Update January 2024: there are no longer boats covering the route between Phnom Phen and Kampong Cham. You can still book a very expensive private boat from Phnom Phen to KC, for at least $150.
By motorcycle
An increasing number of visitors to Cambodia are buying their own motorcycles and then reselling them when they leave the country (or return home), and this is a great way to see Kampong Cham.
By taxi
There are plenty of motodops offering their service for travel not only within the city, but to outlying areas of the province.
By bicycle
Some of the larger hotels and guesthouses (such as the KC River hotel, LBN hotel, Phnom bros hotel and Mekong Sunrise) have bicycles for hire.
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Phnom Penh (Boeng Khyang) · International · KTI
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