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City in Bulgaria
Photo: Ewa Dryjanska, CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Targovishte (Bulgarian: Търговище, pronounced tuhr-GO-vi-shteh) is a city in north-eastern Bulgaria, on the border between the Danube Plain and the foothills of the Balkan Mountains. A relatively green and quiet provincial city that sees few international tourists, it can be a pleasant rest stop when travelling. Unless you are a major lover of Bulgarian history, most of the local attractions are of the "if you are already there anyway" variety.
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Захариева къща, Zaharieva kashta
The house of a merchant family, built in 1866. Now the administrative building of the museum, i.e. the ticket office.
Hadzhi-Angelov's House, Hadzhiangelova kashta
The collections of the ethnographic museum are displayed in another preserved merchant's house, built in 1863. On the second floor, items of the original owners of the house showcase their way of life, including a mirror with a bullet hole that bears witness to the violent events during the Liberation. During 2022, the house was closed for renovation, but it's possible that it will open in the spring of 2023. In the meantime, parts of the collection are exhibited in the Seven Saints School.
Slaveykov's School, Slaveykovoto uchilishte
The main building of the history museum. The school was built in 1863, using funds collected by the citizens; the face of the building still has the donors' plaque dedicating it to the Seven Saints (St. Cyril and Methodius and their five pupils, patrons of education and the Cyrillic alphabet). It was one of the first purpose-built school buildings in the National Revival period. A famous Bulgarian poet and educator, Petko Slaveykov, was a schoolteacher in Targovishte at the time and took part in the project, hence the alternative name of the school. Unsurprisingly, one of the permanent exhibits is a schoolroom of that era. A temporary exhibit showcases the latest finds from the Missionis fortress.
Археологическа експозиция
Another former school building (built in 1907). Notable exhibits include a unique Copper Age set of figurines representing a religious scene, the Kralevo gold treasure, and the tools of a Roman surgeon/physician.
Simov was the flag-bearer of the rebels lead by Bulgarian national hero Hristo Botev during the April Uprising of 1876 and died in the fighting. Tiny two-room museum, pointless if you don't hear the whole story provided by the guide/curator; there's a nice scale model of the Radetzky, the river steamship commandeered by the rebels to deliver them to Kozloduy.
Stone church built in the 1850s, during the National Revival period, and still in use. The name refers to the Eastern Orthodox belief that Mary died in spiritual peace and was then resurrected and taken bodily into Heaven; the feast day of the Dormition is 15 August.
ploshtad "Svoboda"
Targovishte's central square. There's a fountain with bronze dolphins, a small park with trees and benches, a metal drinking fountain (next to the bank), and a public piano (by now probably out of tune), as well as an avant-garde statue of Orpheus with his lyre in front of the theatre. The architecture around the square provides some interesting contrasts - the pretty 1930s bank building with its clock that strikes the hours next to the imposing, Communist-era Municipality building. The pedestrian zone continues south, exiting the square in its south-west corner, until it hits Mitropolit Andrey Blvd close to the Regional History Museum and the monument of Nikola Simov at the large crossroads.
The city's art gallery, named after a local artist. Notable mostly for being used as an exhibition hall during the city fair (see Events below).
Борово око
An artificial pond next to a pine park (Borovets Park), hence the name (Pine Eye). The tree-lined alley around it is a pleasant place for a walk during the greener parts of the year. Large fish and water turtles have been introduced in the pond to control vegetation, and people feed them; there's also an inlet full of sonorous frogs. There's a restaurant with an open-air dining area partially overhanging the lake, built in the Communist era (see the Eat section).
парк „Юкя“
A short series of staircases leads to the top of a small hill with a view of the city; there's the city's name spelled in large letters in case you need photo proof you've been there. There used to be a statue at the top, Khan Krum (a medieval ruler of Bulgaria) on a horse, but it has been relocated to a bend on the river by the road (E772/Road 4) south-west of the city. The park itself stretches to the south-east and has some large grassy areas suitable for things like frisbee.
The city's coat of arms arranged out of colored pebbles.
Krumovo kale
One of the 100 National Tourist Sites. Reaching it requires either a car, or using public transport (bus line 4). There's a small parking lot at the base of the hill, next to the bus stop and a restaurant; a dirt road leads to the ruins, and a hiking path (red markings) mostly follows the road, but then continues after the ruins to the Mladost Hut.
Roadside display of several Soviet-made military aircraft on plinths, representing the types of jets that Aleksandrov had piloted: MiG-19 and MiG-21 fighters, and a Su-22 fighter-bomber. There's also a radar truck and a launcher with an S-75 anti-aircraft missile (the famous Guideline missile from the Vietnam War). You can get up close, but you need to take the exit to Omurtag before seeing the planes on the main road - afterwards it would be too late, the junction doesn't allow U-turns. There's a small informal parking lot/pull-out at the northern end of the overpass, and an alley leading to the plinths.
A 5 m bronze depiction of a cosmonaut in a spacesuit, in an amusingly stylized futuristic style. Surprisingly, it's not from the Communist era - it was erected in 2012. Sculptors Doko Dokov and Dimitar Koychev (both from Kazanlak).
Small historic and ethnographic museum, proportional to the wealth and size of Omurtag. Renovated one-floor National Revival building (the year on the facade is 1876). The most notable exhibit is the flown spacesuit of Aleksander Aleksandrov. Entrance through the yard door. A visit may require contacting the curator by phone, and it's likely that they don't speak English.
Small but well-kept museum in a renovated early 20th century building. Outside, there are a few Soviet artillery guns and a ground sundial. Exhibits include archaeological finds from Kovachevsko Kale (see below), as well as the modern history of Popovo and diverse aspects of urban life in the first half of the 20th century, from schooling and home life to firefighting and the railway.
Ruins of a late Roman fortress built in the 4th century CE. Thick walls with powerful towers, but as usual, not much is left above foundation level. Improved ruin with a small on-site museum.
A picturesque old stone bridge in a remote location among the hills, though it's not actually Roman - it was built in the Ottoman era, sometime between the 16th and early 19th centuries. Reaching the village of Stevrek requires driving (or cycling) on a paved, but sometimes potholed country road; then, you have to hike to the bridge unless you have a high-clearance 4WD vehicle. To get to Stevrek from Targovishte/Omurtag: Road 408 branches off E772 30 km west of Targovishte (8 km west of Omurtag) - look for a bridge junction with signs to Kamburovo and (408) Stara reka, get off E772 there and follow 408 to the south (Kamburovo is in the opposite direction). Follow the 408 for 24 km to the south-west, passing through Iliyno ('Илийно') and a number of other villages until you reach Stevrek ('Стеврек'). Your next challenge is finding the start of the Stara Reka eco-trail, because it's poorly marked - it's close to the bridge where the 408 crosses Stara Reka (the same river the old bridge is on), on the eastern side; look for a paved road starting on the north side of the street, leading uphill; there's a large faded white sign with the EU flag, and smaller, hard to notice yellow sign "Eco Trail Roman Bridge". The path is not on OpenStreetMap, but BGMountains.org has it (online map zoomed on the trail; downloadable maps for Garmin with Latin place names).
Сладкарница "Златната рибка"
Quaint sladkarnitsa (roughly analogous to a pâtisserie) with a good price/quality ratio, a favourite among the local children and pensioners. Self-service, and unless you know some Bulgarian, you will probably have to order by pointing (or using a translator app). There's a WC, but it's kept locked - asked the staff for a key.
Notable mostly for its outdoor dining area - part of it is on a terrace jutting out over the Borovo Oko pond, providing a pleasant view in the greener parts of the year.
Pizza restaurant on the first floor a modern building, in a convenient place.
Despite the name, it's primarily a fast food/takeaway place, specializing in fancy burgers.
Ресторант "Ловна среща"
Roadside restaurant at the base of the wooded heights - appropriately, the name means "Hunters' Meeting". Notable mostly that it's close to the start of the local hiking trails and the road to the ruins of Missionis. As of early 2023, it's been renovated and might even have a menu in English.
An expensive chalgoteka - a dance club/discotheque that specializes in chalga, a controversial local genre of pop music that may not be to foreign tastes, though they also play other kinds of music. Make sure you know what's being played that night before you get in.
Хотел „Мизия“, Hotel Miziya
Utilitarian hotel-with-restaurant built in the Communist era. Its main advantage is the location: right on Targovishte's main square.
Хотел „Идол“
Modern hotel in a newly-built building, on a quiet residential street, 5 min walk south of the central square.
Хотел „Хан Крум“
Probably the cheapest local hotel. Named after a medieval Bulgarian ruler, a renovated Communist-era high-rise building (reportedly, former military accommodation) in a residential area some distance away from the city center.
Modern hotel that is paradoxically simultaneously on the outskirts of town (overlooking a park), and a 5 min walk from the central square. It boasts a bar and two restaurants (including one with a "panoramic" view of the city).
Хотел „Белият Кон“, Hotel Beliyat Kon
A "boutique hotel" in a green, scenic area at the base of the hills south of Targovishte. The name comes from a local natural formation, a landslide-exposed scar in the hillside that looks like a horse. Being on a main road makes it convenient if you are travelling by car. It's also close to the ruins of Missionis and the starting point of the local hiking trails.
Хижа „Младост“, Hizha Mladost
A pretty standard Bulgarian hiker's hut, affiliated with the Bulgarian Tourist Union. 45 beds in rooms of 3, 4 or 5; there's a store/cafeteria and WiFi. Food is served 10:00-16:00 (or 18:00, on Sundays); accommodation is likely by arrangement. At 618 m above sea level, the hut is the end point of the two marked hiking paths that start at the parking lot by the Lovna Sreshta restaurant. There's also a direct paved road - take the road that branches off E772/Road 4 south of Targovishte towards a pair of villages with amusing names - Razboyna and Strazha (Разбойна and Стража, respectively "Brigand's [Place]" and "Guard/Watch"), follow the road through them and some 4 km after Strazha there is a crossroads in the forest - turn west and keep driving until you reach the end of the road, near a wind turbine.
By bus
Targovishte is one of the stops on the Sofia - Varna route operated by Union Ivkoni/Etap Adress/Group Plus, ensuring at least two or three buses daily from each direction, including buses that may…
By car
The unfinished Hemus Motorway (A2) is supposed to connect Sofia and Varna.
By bus
Public transport is provided by passenger vans and mini-buses serving five lines.
By taxi
25 лв. The only local taxi company that has bothered to have a website made is Elit Taxi ("ЕЛИТ ТАКСИ", +359 601 62030, +359 88 500 0077).
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