On the trail of Kipling's Kim

Photo: Unknown authorUnknown author, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Kim, by Rudyard Kipling, is a novel set in British India under the Raj toward the end of the 19th century. The story is about coming-of-age, adventure, espionage, travel, and the diversity of India's ethnic groups and characters, and is one of Kipling's best known works. Kimball O'Hara is a 'poor white' 13-year-old Anglo-Irish orphan happily living on the streets of Lahore, where he is known far and wide as "Little Friend of All the World". He encounters Teshoo Lama, a Tibetan monk in search of a river of healing that will free him from the Buddhist cycle of rebirth. The worldly-wise Kim takes charge of the naive Lama, guarding and guiding him on the road while furthering his own quest for a "Red Bull on a Green Field" – his father's old regimental badge.
'Captured' by the regiment, Kim is saved from a military orphanage by the lama's decision to pay for the best education available to a Sahib's son in India. At the same time Mahbub Ali, an old Lahore acquaintance, brings Kim's background and talents to the attention of Colonel Creighton of the Ethnological Survey, who is also the head of British military intelligence in the subcontinent. This gets the lad involved in a historic geopolitical competition against the Russian Empire up north – the distance between its frontiers and British India's kept shrinking throughout the 19th century – referred to as the "Great Game".
For the next three years, Kim receives a strict British education in term-time – while perfecting skills of another sort during his holidays. Finally released at age 16, he re-joins the Lama to wander across northern India – the one to 'graduate' into his vocation, the other to fulfill his quest.
The modern day traveller who attempts to retrace Kim's path will naturally find that much has changed, while quite a bit hasn't. Some of the train journeys that Kim took are no longer possible, because the routes now cross the international border between India and Pakistan, two countries that are in a state of conflict. The British have left, but many of their institutions endure and the people Kim encountered may dress and speak very differently from his time, but continue to be an interesting lot. Central Asia continues to be an area of conflict, though the disputants have now changed.
Information related to making the journey in the present day is written in bold in the article.
See South Asian wildlife for the flora and fauna of India.
UnderstandKipling was a short-story writer, poet and novelist. He was born in Bombay where his father, John Lockwood Kipling, taught at the JJ School of art.
The story beginsThe story opens with Kim atop the great gun in the bazaar at Lahore, in today's Pakistan.
The journey eastThe lama's goal is to reach Benares (now known as Varanasi), the holiest city of Hinduism, and use that as a base to visit sites related to the Buddha's life such as Lumbini (where he grew up), Bodh Gaya (where he…
Kim finds his red bullAs it turns out, though, Kim does not make it all the way to Saharunpore.
At the schoolKim reaches St Xavier's school, after a stop to talk with his lama who is waiting near the gate. Kipling gives an interesting description of Kim's fellow students:
The first summer holidayThen came the holidays from August to October—the long holidays imposed by the heat and the Rains. Kim was informed that he would go north.... where Father Victor would arrange for him....
Other travelsFor the next three years, Kim has an interesting mixture of activities in his life.
With the lama againA letter comes to the school, Colonel Creighton offering Kim a job as a junior surveyor, and the school of course releases him.
Back to SaharunporeKim and the lama change trains and go on toward Saharunpore, planning to again enjoy the hospitality of the Kulu woman they met previously on the Grand Trunk Road.
The Great GameAfter a few days, They had... left Mussoorie behind them, and headed north along the narrow hill-roads. but according to the lama These are but the lower hills, chela.
Back to the plainsThe lama, injured and ashamed of the anger he has shown, decides they should head back to the plains. Kim attempts to dissuade him, since he is in no shape for travel, but the old man insists.
Sources and licences
- Guide text adapted from the Wikivoyage article "On the trail of Kipling's Kim" by its contributors, available under CC BY-SA 4.0. Read on Wikivoyage · Contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
- Photo: Unknown authorUnknown author, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
