Capital of Aragon, Spain
Photo: Unknown authorUnknown author, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Zaragoza is the capital and largest city of Aragon in Spain, and one of Spain's five largest cities, but it is one of the least known outside of Spain. Founded on the river Ebro during the Roman Empire as Cesaraugusta, Zaragoza now holds a large cultural and architectural heritage attesting to 2,000 years of affluence and importance. The city is best known for its Basilica del Pilar, built to venerate the apparition of the Virgin Mary to Saint James in very early Christian times, which became a major marker of cultural identity for Christian Spain. The city was again put on the global map by the 2008 Expo, which left it with a whole new modern part developed further for various purposes after the exhibition closed.
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Nuestra Señora del Pilar
The more famous of the two cathedrals is the one on the bank of the river Ebro. Holding an additional rank of basilica, this cathedral venerates the Virgin Mary who reportedly appeared to Saint James the Apostle on said riverbank during his travels in Iberia. Mary appeared on a pillar, which led to her being venerated under this particular name and also gave origin to the unusual Spanish female given name Pilar.
Saint James is believed to have had a small shrine constructed by the pillar, of which nothing remains, but subsequently a large basilica was built on the site in the 3rd century under the rule of the Roman Emperor Constantine. This basilica has been rebuilt over the years, and became a Gothic church in the 15th century. The present-day version of the church superseded it and was constructed on the orders of King Charles II of Spain between 1681 and 1872. The protracted construction has been caused by frequent redesigns, including a reorientation, additions of towers and cupolas. It also allowed for the domes to be painted by Francisco Goya a century after the construction started, and the vault paintings are now one of the main attractions on the inside of the cathedral.
La Seo de Zaragoza
Located on the Plaza de la Seo, the cathedral is referred to as la seo ("the see") to distinguish it from the other cathedral, el pilar. La Seo has originally been constructed one the site one of the first mosques during the Moorish domination of Aragon, built perhaps as early as the 8th century, and destroyed to make way for a romanesque church in the 12th century. Zaragoza became an independent diocese in the 14th century and the church became its cathedral, immediately being afforded renovations in the gothic and moorish (mudéjar) styles. Many other reconstructions followed, due to both changing tastes and architectural necessities, as parts of the cheaply-built cathedral began to fail over time, including a collapse in the 15th century.
In the 17th century, the church has been involved in a canon law battle with the newly-reconstructed Basilica of Our Lady on the Pillar over which should be the seat of the diocese and thus the cathedral, which finally saw Pope Clement X declare them joint cathedrals with special provisions to make sure both enjoy equal status. La Seo is now a mixture of styles spanning between 12th and 19th centuries, and features an exquisite collection of tapestries. Entrance closes sometimes during the day when there's mass.
Moorish churches
Mudejar is a style that mixes Christian and Muslim tradition. Good examples of that are a part of La Seo cathedral, Magdalena church, San Miguel church and San Pablo church.
Distinctive for its square tower and polygonal apse, la Magdalena stands out within the old town of Zaragoza as one of the few relatively intact examples of Mudéjar architecture of the 14th century. That said, its interior was renovated in the baroque period.
Another example of Mudéjar architecture, with a square tower and polygonal apse reminiscent of that of la Magdalena. It retained a richly-gilded Renaissance high altar by Damian Forment, but its tower did not escape a baroque intervention in the form of a spire.
The third Mudéjar church features a Gothic portal and another altar by Damián Forment, as well as a pyramid-spired octagonal tower, whose shape is echoed by two lanters flanking the portal.
A Moorish castle with intricate decorations including ceilings of gold. The castle now houses the Aragon regional parliament.
Parts of the ancient wall that surrounded the city are still standing.
A route of 4 museums with a joint ticket is available in better price than separately. Two (the forum and the theatre) are much bigger than the other two, which are not worth going to as the only ones you see. The route exposes monuments from times of Caesar Augustus (I Century B.C.):
Almost everything here is from the era of the emperor Tiberius: it was the site of the original forum from Augustus' time, but it was all demolished after the river flooded, and materials from it were used as filler when raising the street level 4-7 metres, and building a bigger one. As well as models of the two versions, there's the opportunity to walk along a Roman sewer.
Discovered when doing urban works in the 1970s, this exposes much of the Roman theatre. Much better preserved ones exist in Spain (e.g. Badajoz) and elsewhere, but it's still impressive. The museum has a very good section on the history of the site, including its occupation by Muslims when they ruled the area and as the city's Jewish quarter up to the end of the 15th century, as well as on how the theatre operated.
The municipal museum is free and is very much worth a visit for its impressive mosaics from Caesaraugusta and for its celebrated collection of Goya. (Temporarily closed: March 2026.)
Ibercaja Collection
Museum displaying a collection of Goya and temporary exhibitions. (March 2026: temporarily closed.)
EMOZ
A gallery devoted to the craft of origami within the Centro de Historians, run by a long-running local group. Some of the work within is astonishing: both beautiful and 'how did they do that with no cuts or glue, just folds?'
Contemporary art museum in a curious building.
In 2008 Zaragoza hosted an international expo for which a new area was opened with many new buildings designed by famous architects such as Zaha Hadid. It is now possible to stroll around this area. The only facility open to tourists is the aquarium.
Reasonably big aquarium of freshwater species - fish, turtles etc. There's also a big tank with "simulation" of underwater trees etc. through which one walks in multiple directions via glass tunnels. In addition, it's possible to arrange a guided scuba-diving session here.
Parque Grande Primo de Rivera
A vast city park from 1929 with impressive features, arrangements and a monumental fountain staircase. Originally named after the dictator Miguel Primo de Rivera, it was renamed in 2008 following the death of the prominent Aragonese singer-songwriter, activist and politician José Antonio Labordeta. The city's Botanical Gardens are included within the park's grounds.
Carmen Gate
A surviving example of what once were 12 entry gates to the walled city of Zaragoza. The gate looks ancient, but was actually built in 1789 in neoclassical style, hence its resemblance to Roman ruins. The gate's dishevelled appearance documents its role in several sieges of the city and this is why the gate was not restored to its original glory - although minor repairs were carried out in 1997, when a bus collided with it
Stone Bridge
The central bridge of Zaragoza, built in the 15th century and reconstructed many times afterwards to repair flood damage and reinforce the construction. Today it is restricted almost entirely to pedestrian traffic and features four pillars at its ends with lions, symbols of Zaragoza.
Several swimming pools, large lawn area. Few trees, hard to find a place in the shadow.
50-m pool, the right place for serious swimming.
Small pool, plenty of trees for shadow.
Known for croquetas
Down home cooking
Tapas
Tapas
Tapas
Tapas
A very good place to get tapas. In this area are narrow streets overflowing with small bars and restaurants.
Also a very good place to get tapas near the Puerta Cinegia.
A little bit more expensive but the food is of high quality.
One of the best tapas bars in town (although surely not the cheapest!) Try the Boletus Edulis tapa.
A classier, unusual take on a tapas bar, but not overpriced compared to some of the other "high-end tapas".It is advisable to call ahead, as this is a very popular restaurant.
Delicious if a bit pricey. The Piedras and Solomillos are highly recommended. Great for beef lovers or lovers of very traditional Spanish food.
An excellent choice for higher-end tapas.
One of the oldest ice cream shops in Zaragoza, established in 1934. Offer high quality Italian-style ice cream, and horchata de chufa.
Very good ice cream shop.
Great local favorite that has live music playing in the main bar, or you can retreat to the upstairs terrace and enjoy a tasty beverage overlooking the plaza.
Laidback and casual student hang out that doesn't really get going until the early hours of the morning.
Unleash your inner rock god at this long standing favorite, where live music plays throughout the week.
Enjoy a beer while listening live music, theatre, poetry from Wednesday to Sunday
Refurbished in 2008, this hostel is styled in an old medieval building that retains its charms of previous years. Free internet and kitchen available for travelers, with dorms rooms from €16.60 per night.
The Sercotel Plaza Feria is set in an industrial and commercial area on the outskirts of the city and thus recommendable to those travelling by car, who can shave off a few dozen euros off the price of the night in a proper modern hotel by choosing to stay in a remote location.
Convenient if you plan to use Zaragoza as a stopover on your Madrid-Barcelona train ride, as it is only 5 minutes by bus from the Delicias station (or half an hour by foot, if you feel like walking 2 km. Great value for an AC property, even if a bit older and quite away from the city centre (30 mins by bus).
Clean hotel near the central market.
The hotel is actually a certain distance from the Delicias train station (note that there is another Eurostars hotel actually AT the very station), and the walk is not very pleasant, but the hotel is reasonably modern if certainly not luxurious.
On the outskirts of the Platforma Logistica commercial / industrial park, the hotel overlooks a park but one needs a car to comfortably get between the hotel and the city of Zaragoza proper.
Confusingly named, it is distinct from the other Eurostars hotels in Zaragoza and is at the Delicias train station although the name would not suggest so. Do not confuse it with the other hotels when booking, especially the remote and run-down Eurostars Boston. The hotel is modern and very practical for those arriving by train, but one needs to note that some rooms only have windows towards the Delicias station hall and no outside view.
As with the other Ibis Styles, breakfast is normally included in the room price, but watch out for some special prices that eschew breakfast.
A standard if a bit dated Ibis hotel, whose highlight is the location right in front of the Puente de Piedra, which means not only closeness to the historic centre across the river, but also fairytale views of the bridge and Pilar basilica from some of the rooms.
One of the most luxurious hotels in the city, this 5-star hotel is close to the Carmen Door.
Inviting decor of beige stone/marble, dark wood and soft lighting. All the rooms with wireless internet, minibar, room service etc. The attention to detail is noticeable, from the construction of the building to the decor and service it provides its guests. It was designed by Pascua Ortega and constructed from materials native to the region using traditional methods.
The iconic Spanish department store chain has its outlet in Zaragoza on Paseo de la Independencia close to Plaza de España
A modern multi-functional centre in the southern district of Romareda.
Shops, restaurants, cinema and free Wi-Fi access in a centre behind the Delicias station.
Shopping mall where you can find everything including shops, restaurants a bowling alley and cinemas.
Lanuza Market
On a site which has been a market place since the Middle Ages. It is the perfect place to buy Zaragozan products as well as observe the atmosphere of a traditional Spanish market. Go there if you are looking for food and fresh produce
Misericordia Bullring
The place to go on Sunday as it is the venue for the traditional flea market
Largest open-air market
By train
Zaragoza is served by the high speed train AVE that reaches Madrid in approximately 1h15min, and Barcelona in about 1h30min.
By bus
You can reach Zaragoza either from Madrid or Barcelona in 3hr 45min. The coach company is ALSA and the single/return ticket costs around €15/€26.
By car
Zaragoza is very well connected by free speedways with Huesca (1 hr), Teruel (2 hr), Madrid (3 hr), and by toll highways with Barcelona (3 hr, €30), Pamplona and Bilbao.
By bus or tram
A transport card costs €7 at any tobacco kiosk (including an initial fee of €2, and credit of €5).74 for a journey and can change lines within an hour without being charged again.
By taxi
The taxi drivers are plentiful and mostly honest.
By bicycle
There is a shared bicycle system called Bizi. It has a fairly good website in English which allows you to get a temporary subscription online beforehand.28.52 per additional 30 minutes.16 per hour.
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