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Sacred Buddhist site in Shanxi, China
Photo: David Wilmot, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Mount Wǔtái (五台山 Wǔtái Shān), is one of the four Sacred Buddhist mountains of China, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Shanxi Province in China, AAAAA Tourist Attractions of China.
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菩萨顶 Púsà Dǐng aka Bodhisattva Terrace
The two main temples in Táihuái town are Xiǎntōng Temple and Tǎyuàn Temple, both to the west side of the Qīngshuǐ 清水 river. A good way to see these is to start at the top of the hillock that they are on (Púsà Dǐng), and walk down the hill through all 3 monasteries. This way you walk down, not up the flights of 108 steps. The number 108 has considerable symbolical value for Buddhism.
显通寺 Xiǎntōng Sì
Xiǎntōng Temple, perhaps the largest Temple, is where Buddhism took over from Daoism as the main religion in this area.
塔院寺 Tǎyuàn Sì
The white stupa in the centre of Tǎyuàn Temple has become a symbol of Wǔtái Shān.
黛螺顶 Dàiluó Dǐng
On the east side of the Qīngshuǐ 清水 river, the views from this peak overlook Xiǎntōng Temple, Tǎyuàn Temple and most of Táihuái village. There are 1008/1080 steps up to the top. Locals are not sure but it is definitely not just 108. There is also a cable car that can take you most of the way up (or down) ¥30. Or horses to hire.
At the foot of Dàiluó Peak is the ticket office for the minibuses to the five plateaus (and also their starting point).
南山寺 Nánshān Sì
To the south of Táihuái village, arguably the nicest monastery in the area is Nánshān Temple. Invitations to ride a horse en-route. Although there are more signboards at Nánshān Temple in English than at many others, non-monks are not welcomed to stay, and neither are Tibetan monks. These rules and a slight distance from the centre have maintained a greater realistic ‘monastic’ non-conflictive atmosphere than at many other monasteries.
镇海寺 Zhènhǎi Sì
From here you change to a smaller brown minibus to see Míngyuè well, the more impressive Báiyún Temple or get nearer to the start of the climb to Fómǔ Cave.
明月池 Míngyuè Chí, aka Míngyuè pool, Temple of Bright Moon, Bright Month Pond, Temple of View Sea
Míngyuè well is a tiny well in a monastery, a 12-minute climb up a road from the main road (don’t believe the taxi drivers) where reputedly you can see your past and future. Maybe it is not your destiny to see. Not so many tourists come here.
白云寺 Báiyún Sì
This is a centre for Buddhist nuns. The building and statues are more impressive than at Míngyuè well or Fómǔ Cave. This is where the free minibus service ends. Many tourists head on to see Fómǔ Cave.
佛母洞 Fómǔ Dòng
Climbing the steps from the end of the road up to Fómǔ Cave might take nearly another hour. The queue/wait to see the cave could be anything from 2 hours on a weekday to 7-8 hours at weekends. The cave is said to have powers of rebirth - there is a part where reputedly the thin cannot pass but the fat can. Many opportunities to buy the release of sparrows, squirrels, rabbits etc, (放生) the price depending on how hard they were to catch in the first place. Buddhist custom. Sometimes sparrows get killed/injured during the netting/trapping process. Not a top choice for scenery, but an OK climb.
五台顶 Wǔtáidǐng
Just because you have gone to Five Plateau ‘Mountain’ (五台山 Wǔtái Shān) doesn’t mean that you have to see all five plateaus - although many people do. Each plateau has a Buddhist monastery. Many minibuses leave each day from the foot of Dàiluó Peak in the centre of Táihuái village to tour all five plateaus in succession, fewer minibuses just visit one plateau. It takes about eight and a half hours to go around all five plateaus with 30 minutes stop at each plateau and a 40-minute break for lunch. For some people that is a lot of time in a minibus, on bumpy roads near the plateaus and not much time actually spent there.
Seeing all five plateaus, you might see the Central, West and South plateaus in the morning. The North and East plateaus are more desolate/rocky. Likely to be windier, wetter, and colder. The North peak is the highest point in northern China (3058 m) and you may notice the thinness of the air when climbing the temple steps - but not to the extent of getting altitude sickness.
In theory you can choose to see only one plateau - but the minibus company at the foot of Dàiluó Peak likes to have at least 6 customers for each minibus (in a minibus designed for 15). Visiting one plateau not just saves you money: if you arrange it correctly you should be able to have more ‘plateau time’ and less ‘minibus time’ which could make you day much more enjoyable. Individual plateaus (by minibus) around ¥60-80 per person, but taxi drivers may be able to offer a deal (for a taxi). The South (南) plateau is the lowest altitude (2474 m), the greenest, (some forest en route, mushrooms?), and might be the nicest one to visit if you only see one. The weather is likely to be slightly milder - better for a picnic or a short ramble. Maybe you could stop at Jīngé Temple (金阁寺 Jīngé Sì) en-route. At the Central or Western plateaus you might see more wild flowers.
The plateau monasteries are not equipped to supply food to tourists - suggest you stock up at the start point on snacks. Toilets at the monasteries are Chinese old-style, communal, outdoor squat, dirty and stink. In theory you can trek to each plateau and, it is rumored, by doing this earn the right to stay overnight - but facilities are basic - there are no maps or guides.
For the record: east is Wanghai Peak (Peak Overlooking the Sea), west is Guayue Peak (Hanging Moon Peak), south is Jinxiu Peak (Splendor Peak), with Nantai Temple at its summit, north is Yedou Peak (Peak of Flourishing Leaves) and central is Cuiyan Peak (Peak of Green Rocks).
Fóguāng and Nánchán temples house two of the oldest buildings in China (the one in Nánchán being the oldest known wooden structure and the one in Fóguāng the grandest of preserved wooden buildings of the Tang dynasty). As of 2011, tourist agencies do not appear to serve these destinations, which gives them a wonderfully secluded feel. They can be visited comfortably on a 4-6 hour excursion from Táihuái (private car asking price ¥300 as of summer 2011, probably negotiable). The temples are not active, but the atmosphere is without doubt spiritual. Fóguāng Temple (佛光寺) is located near Dòucūn village (豆村), Nánchán Temple (南禅寺) is located near Dōngyě village (东冶). The temples are much more austere in style than the ornate architecture of the Wǔtái valley proper, and extremely elegant (especially Fóguāng).
Secluded and very spiritual.
36-m high Buddha.
Free Shanxi opera shows during summer months.
Great newish hostel with super friendly staff. The twin rooms are big with ensuite bathroom. The staff offered us to join them for a tasty dinner for only ¥10 per person.
By bus
A bus from Tàiyuán East Bus Station to Táihuái Village (in the centre of Wǔtái Shān) costs ¥78 and takes 5 hours.
By plane
By train
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