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Comune in Abruzzo, Italy
Photo: Ra Boe, CC BY-SA 2.5 via Wikimedia Commons
Sulmona is a secluded and somewhat overlooked small city in Abruzzo. Surrounded by imposing mountains at about four hundred metres above sea level, it doesn't feel like it has 25,000 inhabitants. It is close to the ski resorts of Roccaraso and the beaches around Pescara. Sulmona is one of the oldest towns in Abruzzo, with many buildings from the Middle Ages or earlier. It is well known for being the native town of the poet Ovid.
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The old town is full of cafes and bars and is great for hanging out during the morning and late afternoon, and especially in the evening.
The disappearing tradition of walking the main street is alive and strong in Sulmona. Corso Ovidio gets very busy with the daily passeggiata, but especially at weekends and on holidays. Great for people watching.
The Camerata Musicale Sulmonese organise a series of concerts from classical to opera to jazz.
A yearly event in November, takes over the Cinema Teatro Pacifico and a few other venues to show local, Italian and international film.
Usually shows popular Italian films.
A very family run affair, Biffi won't usually give you a menu, offering instead daily specialities cooked by his mum. Excellent selection of local wines. Closed on Mondays
An excellent pizzeria (with fantastic tasting dough) popular with a young crowd, with local wines and some exotic beers.
Bar and gelateria with their own brand of ice creams. Also Panini and pastries, closed on Thursdays
Local wines, hot chocolate in the winter. Free Wi-Fi.
A good selection of wines.
An elegant new villa surrounded by olive trees and a natural oak-grove with more than 100 trees.
A historic property built along a functioning medieval aqueduct.
Set in a villa slightly outside the old town, with a garden, nicely decorated rooms.
Simple but comfortable rooms with kitchen, in the centre of the old town. Giuseppina is extremely friendly and speaks excellent English.
Centrally located near to L'Annunziata, with slightly over-the-top but sweet rooms.
A beautiful self catering holiday apartment in the nearby village of Torre dei Nolfi
A neat little four star hotel in the centre of the old town, very friendly staff.
Largeish four star hotel just outside the old town with reasonable but somewhat soulless rooms.
Inside the medieval walls of Sulmona, next to the town's main square, Piazza XX Settembre. Its restaurant serves food and wines from Abruzzo. All rooms come with TV, fan, and a private bathroom. Free Wi-Fi is available in public areas. Transfer services are available to Pescara and Rome airports but must be booked 48 hours in advance.
In the last week of July there is a reenactment of the classic Renaissance jousting competition with lots of period costumes, music and hearty food. The whole town is taken over and everyone gets involved.
Lots of shops along the main street sell "Confetti", the local speciality of highly colourful candy-coated almonds. The almonds (or sometimes chocolate or other nuts) may be wired together to look like a daisy, and given to guests attending a wedding. The Pelino museum and factory can be visited for free on Via Stazione Introdacqua 55.
The main street is lined with fashion boutiques, from large names such as Sisley and Benetton to local brands like Carpisa and Chagall. Plenty of shoe shops.
The weekly markets sell vegetables, meats and local produce, as well as a hit-and-miss selection of furniture and antiques. Look out for local farmers and their families with a couple of jars of honey or a few cloves of garlic for sale on an upturned crate.
By train
The train across the mountains from Rome (via Tivoli and Avezzano) is spectacular and slow, perfect for checking out the scenery.38) which take about 2 hours 45 minutes.
By bus
The quickest way from Rome is to take the regular buses to and from Rome Tiburtina bus station which takes around two hours. There are also ARPA buses from Pescara and L'Aquila. arpaonline.it
By car
5 hours along the Autostrada A25 (Roma–Pescara). The roads are excellent and traffic light most of the time, but be prepared for traffic getting out of Rome.
There are local buses that go to and from the station into town, and to the surrounding towns (buy tickets in the tabacchi outside the station or in the centre). Buses don't run on Sundays.
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