Town in Kakheti, Georgia
Photo: Roberto Strauss from Frankfurt am Main, Deutschland, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Sighnaghi (Signagi) (Georgian: სიღნაღი) is a town in Georgia's easternmost region of Kakheti and the administrative center of the Sighnaghi District. It is one of the country's smallest towns with a population of about 1,600 (2019).
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Sighnaghi's fortifying wall (18th century) is one of the longest in Georgia; it occupies 40 ha. The wall has 23 towers, each one named for a nearby town, and six gates. Its width is 1.5 m, height 4.5 m and total length is 4.5 km. A small section of the wall, perpendicular to the snow-capped mountain range, has a walkway with open towers. You can walk from the center of the old city to the road to Sakobo/Tsnori, where there is a restaurant and picnic spot and great view of the valley. With little traffic you can walk alongside the road back to the old city. Walk along the wall a couple of times (and climb up into the towers) at different times of the day because you get different views of the valley and the mountains. Walking the whole wall can be difficult, after the walkway it goes steep down a hill and at the bottom you have to overcome a step of about 4 m. Also this and further parts are overgrown and partly degenerated.
The church tower commands an excellent view of Sighnaghi's surrounding areas, and people can climb over the fortifications. There is often an old man here (the candle seller who is in every Orthodox church) who tries to extract a fee from visitors, but there is no price for admission to the church or the tower.
One of the most important places in Georgia for pilgrimages: St. Nino Equal to the Apostles, who brought Christianity to the country in the IV century, is buried here. Her tomb is in St. George's Basilica in a narrow chapel, to the right if facing the iconostasis, under a white marble altar. Mtskheta and Sighnaghi represent the beginning and the end of St. Nino's ministry in Georgia. Buried at the entrance to St. George's is Abbess Nino, the mother superior in 1924 when the convent was closed by Bolshevik Russia. The monastery was constructed at the end of the 5th century by King Vakhtang Gorgasali and then reconstructed in the 19th century. The complex, with two churches, a bell tower, a cemetery, and a tasteful gift shop, as well as facilities for 30 sisters, has beautiful gardens and fantastic views of the Alazani Valley. Just before 10:00 on a Sunday morning (2016) the gates to the convent were opened, and visitors were allowed into the church to receive communion with the nuns and a blessing.
There is a sister at the font and small church to manage pilgrims who wish to wash in the holy and allegedly healing water here. It appears to require undressing and putting on a white tunic, which you rent/buy from the sister. Same-sex groups of maybe four enter at one time, and others cannot go in until they come out. The water is reportedly very cold. There is a road to get to the spring from the convent by car or taxi.
An old Armenian church built in 1793, with a tall bell tower visible from many points of the city. Beginning in 1924, during the Soviet period, the church was used as a clubhouse (ակումբ). The church now serves as a Georgian Orthodox Church.
The ground floor holds an impressive exhibit of archeological artifacts, many of which were discovered locally. The upper floor features 16 original paintings by the famous Georgian folk artist Niko Pirosmani, who was from the Mirzaani Valley, as well as a gallery for special exhibitions.
The largest market in the region, Bodbiskhevi offers the traditional Soviet Sunday market day experience. At Bodbiskhevi market the prices and variety of goods are unmatched, selling such things as fresh produce, meats, cheeses, crafts, clothes, livestock, and house and farm goods. There is some confusion about whether the market is in the Bodbiskhevi village, which is 4 km southwest of Tsnori – best to ask locals.
Sighnaghi is the Georgian wedding city, with the registry office running all around the clock, from morning to evening. Consequently, many celebrations take place in Sighnaghi, which you will notice. Also foreigners can get married here without hassle: you just need your passport. A notarial translation is recommended to be on the safe side (any notary office will do, 15 lari).
Pheasant's Tears wine bar offers wine tastings and interesting takes on traditional Georgian cuisine with an eye towards wine and food pairings. A must-see for wine tourists, as the winery produces organic wine made in the traditional qvevri method and focuses exclusively on Georgian varietals. Their restaurant and wine is considerably more expensive than other restaurants. Pheasant's Tears can also organize wine tours throughout the region or even arrange an acclaimed folk ensemble to provide Georgian polyphonic song during your feast. Pheasant's Tears also sells traditional and antique Georgian carpets, as well as fine art painted by the primary partner in the winery, a graduate of the Surikov Institute in Moscow. English and Russian friendly.
First restaurant you see entering Sighnaghi coming from Tbilisi. Delicious khinkali, mtsvadi and other Georgian specialties.
Nikala boasts excellent Kakhetian food and some of the best khinkali and mtsvade in town. Their menu includes several more rare Kakhetian delicacies than most restaurants in the area. English friendly.
A really nice place with hospitable hosts.
Get your welcome drinks, some home made wine, chacha and a coffee, in this nice Guesthouse. Traditional Kakheti food is available on request, 5 lari for breakfast and 10 lari for dinner. It is a nice, clean and comfortable place, with Wifi, a computer on request and hot shower, run by the English speaking Nato. Nato or her father Lado can take you in her car to her own vineyard and around local sights in Kakheti. Beware, there are two hotels at the same address... take the left one with the green entrance!
A charming homestay run by a very kind and welcoming English-speaking family. Terrace overlooking Kakheti. Lovely rooms. Dinners (optional, extra) are a communal affair and a great way to meet other travelers.
Away from most of the tourists, down an everyday Georgian residential street, where you can practice your "Gamarjoba" with elderly ladies carrying groceries and use "Hello" with children playing ball in the street, this guest house has four-star accommodation, including shiny and new bathroom fixtures. The house, like the street, is quiet. The bed is comfortable, and the wifi is strong.
Manana's Guesthouse
This is a great guesthouse with a homey atmosphere. The rooms are clean and comfortable, some of them with a great view of the valley and the mountains. There is a large dining room downstairs, where the guests can hang out and have some wine. For additional price Manana, the hostess, can cook a hearty breakfast or a traditional Georgian dinner. There is also a garden in the back where one can enjoy fresh air or try home-grown grapes. The guesthouse is close to St. George Church and other touristic attractions. It's suitable for young travellers, and for families with children.
The old woman is friendly but does not speak English. Coffee and tea is for free and Wifi is available.
In a small section of Sighnaghi, several ladies offer a picturesque array of knitted goods for sale for astoundingly cheap prices. Here you cay buy Georgian socks with traditional patterns and local wool, hats, scarves, slippers, and baby booties.
Most sights can be reached on foot, even the Bodbe Convent. Though, you might want to take a taxi or hitch-hike there to save time.
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