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Town in East Sussex, England
Photo: Cathy Cox, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Rye is a town in East Sussex that in medieval times was one of the Cinque Ports responsible for England's maritime defence. It stood at the head of a bay, which silted up, leaving the town two miles from the sea. This meant that later industry and development passed it by, so its attractive old town centre has been preserved. In 2021 Rye had a population of 4975.
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Ypres Tower
This was probably built in the early 14th century: in 1329 the town was awarded "murage", the right to levy a tax to pay for defensive walls, and the castle is the likeliest beneficiary. Known then as Baddings Tower, it was involved in the wars against the French and in 1430 became the property of John de Iprys - hence the name changed to "Ypres Tower". It was used as a jail until 1891 then was the town morgue. The site is managed by Rye Castle Museum, whose main display is at East Street.
Charming redbrick mansion built in 1722 by James Lamb, a wine merchant and politician. It has to be called "Georgian" since in 1726 a ship carrying King George I was driven ashore at Camber, he pitched up here needing accommodation, and Lamb's wife went into labour at the sight of him. A string of writers have stayed here: Henry James, EF Benson, Rumer Godden, AC Benson, H Montgomery Hyde, John Senior and Sarah Philo, and other notable figures. The house passed to the National Trust in 1950 and has a large walled garden.
Local history museum by the old wharf, with a collection of early 20th century penny-arcade machines.
In 1539 trouble was looming with France and Henry VIII had qualms about his defences. He therefore commissioned "device forts" - coastal artillery positions. This one was of botched initial construction, rendered obsolete by artillery advance, and left stranded amid grazing sheep by the receding sea. Worst of all for any self-respecting military engineer, peace broke out with France. That meant the castle was left alone (the plan to make it a golf clubhouse fell through), so it's a rare example of an intact device fort. You can see the exterior free anytime, but to go within you have to join the monthly guided tour.
Good seafood restaurant.
Authentic Thai food.
Pleasant modern restaurant in a knock-through of Georgian shops.
Modern British restaurant in a 15th century building.
Excellent little Italian restaurant by the riverside.
The oldest pub in Rye, trad place with Shepherd Neame real ale and pub grub.
Atmospheric pub with half-timbered interior, good pub food
Restored 15th-century inn with ancient oak beams, serving real ale and food.
17th-century weather-boarded pub serving craft beer, real ales, local cheeses and cured meats. Dog-friendly, pleasant river views. No cash, contactless payment only.
16th-century inn among the old warehouses, now antique shops, by the river wharf. Has rooms.
Reliable friendly pub with food.
Trad pub with bar and games area, and garden overlooking a cricket pitch.
Relentlessly quirky edge-of-town pub, mostly good reviews.
Beautiful 11-roomed B&B in an ivy-clad 17th-century storehouse. No children under 8.
The windmill was built in 1824. It burned down in 1930 and was re-constructed, you'd have to say re-imagined, as a prettified but non-functional smock mill. It's now an unusual guesthouse.
Charming atmospheric inn: the cellars date from 1156. The inn along with the rest of town was burned by the French but re-built in 1420. Good restaurant and public bar.
Stylish old coaching inn, mostly Georgian but some harking back to Tudorbethan, a stylish blend of antique and modern. Good dining.
Cosy hotel in an 18th-century inn with good restaurant.
formerly The Place at the Beach
Small hotel in Californian beach style, except the view is over Camber Sands not Monterey Bay. No children 18 months - 12 years.
This B&B remains closed in 2022.
Elegant Georgian country house hotel with 44 rooms and spa.
B&B in a 16th-century farmstead with winery. It was once owned by William Penn, founder of Pennsylvania.
Friendly clean site towards Hastings, open Mar-Sep. No dogs.
By train
Trains run hourly from Ashford International, taking 20 min. They continue west from Rye to Winchelsea, Hastings, Bexhill, Pevensey Bay and Eastbourne.
By bus
Stagecoach Bus 101 runs hourly from Hastings, taking 50 min via Ore, Fairlight and Winchelsea.
Rye itself is best explored on foot. Use the bus (as above) for Camber Sands or Winchelsea. Bus 313 runs to Northiam every two hours, for Great Dixter House and Gardens.
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