Comune in Lazio, Italy
Photo: Alessandro Antonelli, CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Rieti is a small city in the region of Lazio in central Italy. It has a population of close to 50,000 and is the capital of the province of Rieti. The beauty of the landscape and the city's quietness, still uninvolved by mass tourism, make it a livable place and a favourite destination for many weekend tourists, coming mainly from Rome.
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Many Italian cities had defensive walls in the Middle Ages, but few in Lazio still have such an imposing and well preserved one. Rieti's walls were built in the 13th century and enclose the northern side of the city centre; they were not needed at the southern side, enclosed by the Velino river, a natural defence. Unfortunately, you can't get on top of the walls, so the only way to visit them is to take a walk along viale Canali and viale Morroni, which border them.
It maintains the original 16th-century wooden doors.
Built in the 13th century, it retains the beautiful Romanesque-Gothic exterior. Sadly the interior was later renewed in a less impressive neoclassical style, but it is still worth a visit for some remaining 15th-century frescoes (mainly Crocifissione by Liberato di Benedetto) and for the funeral monument of Angelo Maria Ricci by neoclassic sculptor Giuseppe De Fabris.
It houses the municipal government and offices. The building dates back to the 14th century, but was largely modified afterwards. The nice neoclassical façade is work of Filippo Brioni (1748), while extensive changes were made after the 1898 earthquake, including the construction of the tall building on the left side, and the complete remaking of its rear side.
It displays several interesting artworks, including 14th century paintings by Luca di Tommè and Zanino di Pietro, several works by Renaissance painter Antoniazzo Romano, an Ebe by Antonio Canova, and many works by notable local painters Antonio Gherardi, Carlo Cesi and Antonino Calcagnadoro.
17th-century fountain at the centre of the square.
Neoclassical palace dating back to the 17th century. Houses the headquarters of Rieti's small university.
This 16th-century work is perhaps the most beautiful building here. Apart from the elegant façade, it has an astonishing Renaissance-styled loggia on the west side, overlooking a pretty Italian-style garden. The loggia has such a great artistic value that for a long time it was mistaken for a work by architect Vignola, and still it is commonly called "Loggia del Vignola" (although it is now considered the work of one of his pupils). The garden is always open to public, and is an enchanting place where children can play, and you can admire the beautiful loggia and a view over the roofs of the lower part of the city, lulled by the roar of the fountains. The Baroque interior of the building, normally not open to visits, since the building houses government offices, is sumptuous and includes a magnificent fireplace in polychrome marble.
It consists in a display of sculptures, coins, goldsmithery and objects from the prehistoric, Etruscan, Hellenistic and Roman periods, including an iron age urn found near Rieti.
It was started in 1109. It has an impressive Romanesque bell tower from 1252. The interior was almost entirely rebuilt in 1639 and hence is mainly Baroque, and hosts several noteworthy paintings and sculptures. The crypt remains from the original Romanesque church.
Museo diocesano dei beni ecclesiastici
It is a museal path consisting of the Cathedral Treasury museum, housed in the Cathedral's baptistery; a museum of liturgical furnishings, in rooms near to the Cathedral's crypt; a lapidary in the vestibule leading from the crypt to the Bishop's Palace; and of the Diocesan Art Gallery, set up in the audience hall of the Bishop's Palace.
Palazzo Vescovile
Built in 1288, it has been the residence of several popes and hence is also called "Papal Palace". The exterior is severe and in Romanesque style; inside, the ground floor, always open to the public, houses a beautiful Gothic cross vault, while the upper floor contains the audience hall (which houses the diocesan picture gallery) and the bishop's private apartment.
It's a large arch which runs over the street. It was built by Pope Boniface VIII, which witnessed the 1298 earthquake; he was so frightened of collapsing buildings, that he ordered his own palace to be reinforced with this arch.
Built in the 13th century, the church was restored and reopened in the 1990s after being abandoned for two centuries. It preserves the Romanesque exterior, while few has remained of the original interior, apart from some small surviving frescoes. To fill the void, a very large pipe organ has been built inside.
St. Dominic church has an architecturally significant convent, well worth a visit. It develops around the Blessed Colomba cloister, with a beautiful Italian-style garden and a portico decorated by frescoed lunettes illustrating the life of the blessed Colomba. At one side of the cloister, there is the St. Peter the Martyr Oratory, a small chapel that houses an astonishing fresco of the Last Judgment, painted by brothers Lorenzo and Bartolomeo Torresani between 1552 and 1554. Sadly, it is almost impossible to visit the oratory and the cloister, since it's part of the military area of an Italian Army barracks (caserma Verdirosi), and the military allows touristic visits only on special occasions (e.g. "giornate FAI"). This is a real shame, since it is arguably the most important fresco in the whole city!
The so-called geographical centre of Italy might seem like a gimmick to attract tourists, but Rieti was nicknamed "Umbilicus Italiae" ("navel of Italy") even in Roman times. The exact point is at St. Rufus square, recorded by a multilingual plaque and a monument which locals call "caciotta", as it resembles a round cheese.
The small Baroque church is worth a visit mainly because of the painting known as "The Guarding Angel", hosted inside and attributed to Caravaggio or one of his pupils. It is said to be the most important painting in town.
Opened in 1893, it is the city's main theatre and opera house, held as one of Italy's best theaters for acoustics. The elegant interior holds art nouveau decorations by Antonino Calcagnadoro and a large painting on the dome by Giulio Rolland, depicting the triumph of Rome's emperors Titus and Flavius following the victory over Jerusalem.
chiesa di Sant'Antonio Abate
This church was built in 1620 on a design by famous architect Vignola. Its Baroque façade was never completed: the brickwork surface had to be covered with marble slabs, like Rome's Gesù church. The church has been lying abandoned since the 1970s; its interior is off-limits and has become a refuge for pigeons, stray cats and vandals.
It's a small alley that perfectly represents the typical features of mediaeval cities, with arches, ladders and narrow passages. It's not the cleanest spot in town, although it has been repaved.
The eastern city gate of the mediaeval walls, the largest and arguably the most scenic one, on the Via Salaria consular road to Ascoli and L'Aquila.
16th-century palace designed by baroque architech Carlo Maderno.
A guided visit to the undergrounds of Via Roma's buildings surprisingly reveal that a 3rd-century Roman viaduct is still in place under the street, and supports the weight of the road with its arches. It is also shown how in the past some buildings had a boat access from the Velino river, like in a small-scale Venice. The visit lasts around 1 hour and 45 minutes.
Built in the 3rd century AD, it remained the main access to the town until the 1930s, when it became too low on the water level and had to be demolished. The old bridge was laid out on the riverbed, but can still be seen emerging from the water, while a modern bridge replaced it. The nearby area is a very good spot to enjoy Rieti's natural beauties: Velino's water is clear, the riverside is covered by a nice lawn, and ducks use the old bridge as a nest. There are nice cafes and pubs facing the river.
Built in 13th century over a small oratory founded by Saint Francis, it's indeed his second church ever. It features a simple and clean Romanesque exterior, and a less valuable Baroque interior. It's very important for local believers, as it's the starting point of the procession of Saint Anthony, held every year on June 13.
The euro currency was introduced on January 1, 2002. Italians still have fond memories of their former currency, the lira, despite the fact that they had to count in millions; this monument, sculpted by Daniela Fusco and inaugurated in 2003 by Sofia Loren, has become a cherished tourist attraction.
The southern city gate of the mediaeval city walls, into the Via Salaria consular road to Rome. The current gate was built in 1586 and enclosed the small street Via Porta Romana; in 1930 it was moved at the centre of the square to make its appearance more spectacular, as if it was an arch of triumph. Atop the gate, an inscription greets who is entering the city in Latin Ingredere Omnia Fausta Ferens ("enter bringing good wishes"); another salutes who is exiting the city with I et red feliciter ("go and come back successfully").
Giorlandina or Ciclovia A
A beautiful bicycle path runs by the southern Velino riverside, going from west to east. It is 3 km long and allows for a nice bike ride near the green river shores and far from traffic. Benches and drinking fountains are available along the way.
Ciclovia della Conca Reatina
This is a longer bicycle path that consists of a 21 km circular ring which starts and ends in Rieti. Entirely flat and without climbs, it is immersed in the nature of the Rieti Plain, between cultivated fields and rivers. Rest areas along the way have benches, picnic tables and drinking fountains. For most of the length, the bikeway has an easily recognizable orange colour. Pay attention to the Contigliano-Sant'Elia trait, where the route is not well indicated: always look for the red dashed line at the roadside to be sure of being on the right way.
1.5 km south of the city centre, Fonte Cottorella is a renowned spring of mineral water, used for drinking and for bathing. Near the spring there is the thermal building (sadly in a rather poor state), a restaurant, and a small park with benches, tables and paths that go into the nearby mountain. Its water can be tasted for free in a public fountain, and can be bought in larger quantities at a convenient price.
In a modern neighbourhood within walking distance from the old town, 200 m away from the Guidobaldi athletics stadium.
Inside an historic building.
It's the most central hotel, with one side on the main Vittorio Emanuele square, and the other on the Cathedral and Vignola Gardens.
Overlooks the Velino riverside, near the Roman bridge and St. Francis church.
Hosted in an historical building; its façade is made from remains of the Roman walls.
20 minutes from Rieti by car. The place is nice and surrounded by nature.
A large aristocratic villa with a park converted into a hotel, on the top of San Mauro Hill, surrounded by nature but just 1.5 km from the city centre. Anyway a car is pretty much needed to go up and down the hill.
This book shop deserves a visit, inside the small deconsecrated St. Peter church, with its nice Romanesque façade.
By car
By train
A bit complicated.
By bus
A direct line is run by regional company COTRAL, with a bus every half an hour during working days or every hour on Sunday or holidays; it uses much more modern vehicles and is quite comfortable,…
By plane
There is no commercial airport in Rieti; nearest large airports are Rome's Leonardo da Vinci-Fiumicino (FCO) and Ciampino (CIA).
By boat
Nearest ferry or cruising ship port is Civitavecchia. To get to Rieti from Civitavecchia by public transport, first go to Rome (see how), then reach Rieti.
On foot
Rieti's mediaeval city centre is quite small and easy to walk, if you're not too tired.
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