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Locality in San Luis Potosí, Mexico
Photo: Rafael Saldaña, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Real de Catorce is a ghost town in San Luis Potosí. The former silver mining boom town has lost over 90% of its population since its heyday in the late 19th century, and only about 1,400 residents remain (2010). Real de Catorce has been designated as one of Mexico's Pueblos Mágicos.
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Cerro el Quemado
Wixárika (Huichol) indigenous peoples walk across miles of desert from Nayarit, Durango, Jalisco and Zacatecas to visit the valley of Catorce every spring to leave religious offerings at the Cerro Quemado, a ceremonial center to the east of their mystical religious territory. Quemado is, according to their ancestral beliefs, the birthplace of their "Tatewari" or Grandfather Fire.
Cemetery
Since 1775, locals have been dying to rest in the Guadalupe Chapel before being laid to rest for eternity in the town's crowded graveyard. The abundance of memorials and old grave markers bear testament to the stories of this once being a bustling town with a thriving mining industry. Today, the deceased far outnumber the town's living population.
Church of the Immaculate Conception
18th century church built in a neoclassical style of pink cantera granite. The inside is beautiful and tranquil with pastel painted domes along the main nave.
Narrow, single-lane tunnel that is the sole road into the town. The 11-km tunnel can only handle 1-way traffic that includes cars, small trucks, horse-drawn wagons, and mule trains. Cars are allowed into the town, but are restricted to certain locations. Oversize vehicles (including RVs, large trucks, and large vans, like Sprinters) must park outside the town and passengers use local transport (horse, Willys Jeep, or truck with benches). There are women with walkie-talkies at either end of the tunnel who coordinate traffic. There is often a long line during the day to enter the town. The tunnel is a travel experience in itself as well as a scenic point of interest and an odd curiosity in today's modern world.
Cockfighting Ring
Historic stone cockfighting arena with stone benches surrounding the fight ring. Interesting, if brutal, historic bloodsport.
Mint, Old Coin House
Regional history museum inside the historic mint, a colonial-era building that's been well-restored. Exhibits explain a bit about the town's mining history and the indigenous Huichol people who inhabited the region. There are also galleries with artworks from both the colonial and modern eras.
Silver Mine
Historic mine. Informal tours, guides highly recommended.
Silver Mine
Historic hacienda at the entrance to the Ogarrio Tunnel, the only access point for the town of Real de Catorce. The hacienda is very scenic and a great place to take pictures. There's also a shop selling souvenirs and snacks. There are parking lots at the entrance and you can hop in a canvas covered vehicle for the trip through the tunnel or take one of the Willys tours, riding in an old Willys Jeep.
The town's main plaza (zocalo) is a tranquil place with mature, evergreen shade trees, fountains, gardens, walkways, and a small central kiosk (bandstand). Great place for people watching. Nearby shops sell light snacks and the Willys tours depart from here for their desert tours.
Traditional Mexican cuisine served in a historic hotel built in 1863. The atmosphere is rustic, but upscale, with first-class service, a full bar serving a variety of cocktails, beer, and wine, and vegetarian options available on request.
Casual elegance in a rustic dining room with timbered wood ceilings and rustic Saltillo tile floors. Serves a mix of traditional Mexican and international dishes. Breakfast is served until 13:00 and lunch/dinner dishes after 13:00. Robust coffee is a great start to the day along with Mexican egg dishes, waffles, or a fruit plate and sweet breads.
Fun, casual, family friendly restaurant serving traditional Mexican cuisine and Italian pasta and pizza in a rustic space that feels like an old-fashion country store. Many of the dishes feature home-grown or locally sourced vegetables. Well-behaved dogs welcome. Rooftop terrace with panoramic vistas.
Small hotel with just five rooms, each with its own style and personality. Rooms are furnished with antiques and some have fireplaces. Friendly staff.
Rustic cabins across the street from the cemetery. Rustic decor. Large communal patio area for evening get-togethers.
Rustic inn close to the parish church. Rooms are spacious, clean, and very comfortable with upscale linens. Delicious breakfast with locally sourced coffee.
28 rooms, divided in two houses, Hotel el Real 1 and Hotel el Real 2. Best social club in town, featuring weddings, birthday parties, live music.
Quaint rustic inn in the heart of the town. Location on a steep hill with cobblestone street could be an access issue for elderly or disabled visitors. Rooms are spacious, very comfortable, and clean. Very peaceful as the town is dead quiet at night. The hotel has an open rooftop terrace with a bar, affording panoramic views of the town and countryside. Friendly service.
Wild or freedom camping is possible in Real. The most popular and safest option is the local cemetery. Expect to share the area with other travelling hippies. Camping atop Cerro Quemado is also possible and will provide epic views of the sunset, starry night skies, and beautiful morning sunrise.
By bus
Intercity buses from Saltillo, Monterrey, and San Luis Potosí stop in Matehuala, the closest major bus station to Real de Catorce. Multiple bus companies like Frontera and Senda serve the route.
By car
In order to get to Real de Catorce you have to go through a very narrow 2,3-km tunnel.
By taxi
A driver offered direct service for M$9 per km (May 2017). From San Luis Potosí it is about ~250 km which would be around M$2,250 which may make sense for groups.
Once in Real de Catorce you get around by walking mostly. Cars are not allowed to drive in the city. To get to one of the far away tourist destinations you travel by horse, donkey or mule.
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San Luis Potosí · Regional · SLP
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